Author Topic: enigne not heating... (Read 8279 times)

rubberducky · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2006, 11:25:45 am »

yet another update...

i went out and got 4 plugs... got to the first two, ones that aren't obstructed by the fuel injector pump. one was swollen at the tip, and the other wasn't. i'm sure that swollen one certainly didn't help; but i'm assuming that they all should be covered in soot, to a certain degree.

now comes the obvious question:
i've never had to take off the injector pump. i'm about to go spend some quality time with the Bently, but i know he's not all that descriptive at times, so if anyone has any input, i'd really appreciate it.

i get the impression that i don't have to replace all plugs at the same time, but i'd still like to get at them, since i don't know what kind of condition they are in. any and all advise are appreciated. wow, that sentence had the letter 'a' in all of its words....

Thanks

hoyt · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2006, 12:30:05 pm »

You might want to take a look at:

http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml

Gives lots of good info about the glow plug system.
And I would do this:

Quote

Or, replace the bus bar with individual 12ga. wires from each glow plug to a common connection with the power feed from the fusilble link. This way, you can isolate each plug for testing easily, without the hassle of removing and installing the tiny nut that attaches the bus bar to the glow plug, which is the trickiest part of the whole process.

I did this to my Vanagon, and it makes checking for bad glow plugs
much easier.

wyldman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2006, 02:19:15 pm »

No need to pull the injection pump.Pulling the injector lines helps,but is also unneccesary if you have patience.Use a magnet and a long flat screwdriver to help get the plugs started in the holes,and putting the little nuts back on.

rubberducky · « **Reply #18 on:** February 23, 2006, 02:27:55 pm »

hi guys,

me again. thanks for the tips. it turns out the fusible link was dead. many thanks to hoyt for the info there. saved me hours and $$$ for needlessly replacing things i otherwise need not have.

thanks wyldman for the info. i wasn't entirely sure if the plugs would come out / go in with that little space. i'll make sure i have ample patience before i get at the last two glow plugs.

many thanks all.

rubberducky · « **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2006, 04:48:42 am »

I'm thinking this is a fluke, but i've driven about 360-some-odd-miles since i've replaced the thermo; just filled the tank this morning, and i'm at about 46mpg. the tank before, i think i was somewhere around 35mpg... and i've done more than my usual amount of city (Boston) driving, as well as leaving the car idling for quite some time.

my understanding is that in colder temps the fuel efficiency does down somewhat. does that mean i can expect the mpg's to go up with warming temps? that'll be sweet.

at least for the time being, i think all's well with the car. let it sit out for at least 2 hrs in the cold (below freezing), and with the new fusible link, she started right up. i'm still a bit worried, but i guess i'll find out today. took a look at the battery, it's something like 575CCA. geez. i think that's the next thing i'm going to replace.

Thanks again everyone.

zyewdall · « **Reply #20 on:** February 24, 2006, 06:58:44 am »

46mpg is closer to what I'd expect for that car and engine...

rubberducky · « **Reply #21 on:** February 25, 2006, 06:38:26 am »

yay!

its about -10*c out and she started, no problems! just some rough idling. on a related note, the 15w-40 i drained and left out isn't all that tar-ish. it still slopped in the container when i shook it.

chrissev · « **Reply #22 on:** February 25, 2006, 07:41:04 am »

Quote from: "rubberducky"

yay!

its about -10*c out and she started, no problems! just some rough idling. on a related note, the 15w-40 i drained and left out isn't all that tar-ish. it still slopped in the container when i shook it.

try pouring it. you'll see it's pretty thick. The oil needs to be fairly free flowing for easy starts when it's cold, because the battery is cold so it has less amps then when it is warm and it therefore cranks the engine slower.