Timing belt chewed up/ covered in oil - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by srgtlord on 04 Oct, 2012 10:22
• Well this past tuesday i retired the red golf due to rust...lots of rust and a very scary steering issue.  I might swap the diesel into the backup gasser mk2 im driving currently. Both cars are CE2.The only thing that is preventing me from doing this is the fact that nothing is wrong with the gasser right now, and with my new job I cant mess around like I have been for the past 4 years.  The diesel has become a backburner project...
• #16 by srgtlord on 25 Oct, 2012 08:33
• So tonight I am finally going to have a chance to pull off the timing belt and take a look at what went wrong. What should I be looking for in the intermediate shaft area, play? Is it also possible I ruined my injection pump shaft bearing in the few thousand miles I drove the car?
• #17 by bbob203 on 25 Oct, 2012 09:02
• in might have a bit of in and out play but should have no side to side play. Its pretty easy to removed inless engine is in the the car then its a little tougher.
• #18 by srgtlord on 25 Oct, 2012 22:11
• Wow I really forked up.... The injection pump shaft bearing is now ruined I was able to rock the pulley from side to side.  I was able to wiggle the intermediate shaft very slightly side to side. This goes to show that you can have all the right tools parts  and manuals and still screw up.....
• #19 by 8v-of-fury on 25 Oct, 2012 22:16
• Jesus.
• #20 by srgtlord on 26 Oct, 2012 07:19
• Because I was barely able to wiggle the intermediate bearing shaft as in less than the thickness of  a fingernail, as in no visible movement  would the intermediate bearings be ok? I do not want to pull out the shaft if I do not have to. I just finished reading a post about proper tension of the belt using the 45 degree twist method and apparently Im not the only one who has done this.
  
• #21 by TylerDurden on 26 Oct, 2012 08:54
• Bearings are gone if you have any radial play.
• #22 by srgtlord on 26 Oct, 2012 09:05
• Craptastic. With the engine out how the heck to you remove and install the outer bearing?
• #23 by theman53 on 26 Oct, 2012 09:07
• Quote from: srgtlord on 26 Oct, 2012 09:05

  Craptastic. With the engine out how the heck to you remove and install the outer bearing?
  

  Much easier than if it was in the car.
• #24 by srgtlord on 26 Oct, 2012 09:45
• What tools would I have to use? Where can I find a new outer bearing?
• #25 by TylerDurden on 27 Oct, 2012 15:38
• The bearings (sold in pairs: inner/outer) are readily available.
  
  IM shaft outer bearing is not too difficult:
  
  

  - Remove the IM pulley & vacuum pump.
  - Remove the IM shaft seal-carrier.
  - Support the rear of the IM shaft (has the helical gear) through the vacuum pump hole, using your index finger, while sliding the shaft out about 2" and *gently* letting it rest on the bearings.
  - Remove the shaft entirely, by holding the hub and drawing the shaft out. Avoid bashing the inner bearing with the tail/gear of the shaft. Threading the pulley-bolt back into the hub will give you more to hang onto, to keep the shaft level while removing it.
  - Observe that the old bearing has a hole aligned to allow oil supply from a port in the boss.
  - Put a rag, long screwdriver or wood dowel through the outer bearing to keep it from falling into the oil-pan, while you punch the bearing into the crankcase. I use the butt of a 3/8" extension as a punch (a narrow punch will only carve into the soft bearing).
  - Pull the bearing out through the opening with narrow pliers; it will deform enough to easily pull out.
  
  - Position the new bearing in the opening (it will likely have a chamfer to help hold it). Ensure the hole in the bearing is aligned with the oil-port in the opening.
  - I use the seal-carrier as a press, turning the bolts 1/4 turn each at a time, to keep the retainer and bearing aligned to the bearing boss. Remove the retainer and add a large washer in the seal retainer's recess, then replace the retainer and press the bearing flush to the boss.
  - Replace the IM shaft, using care to not bash the bearings in the process.
  - The IM shaft should have about 1mm axial play and no radial play.
  

  
  You might want to replace the seal too. I use a large bolt and washers as a press.
• #26 by srgtlord on 05 May, 2013 20:39
• I double checked the intermediate shaft for play and there was none.... and the injection pump seems to have a normal amount of play..... soooo  I figured for ***s and giggles I would also attempt to move the pump bracket and install a new timing belt.  After moving the bracket I noticed the belt began to track and ride off  the back of the pulley instead of riding off the front. The never ending saga continues...
• #27 by srgtlord on 14 May, 2013 15:13
• Well I think I figured out my error for the belt tracking issue. It occurred when I assembled the pump to the block. I never checked to see if the pulleys were straight.  So I performed the service bulliten pump task.
  
  If you take  the 2 bolts fastening the bracket behind the pump to the bracket on the pulley side of the pump you can perform the service bulletin task  and over correct so the belt rides off the back of the pump. My solution, was to leave the 2 bolts on the left side of the bracket loosley threaded while performing the task of re-positioning the bracket. Now the Timing belt rides  on the center of all the pulleys.
  
  Plus tensioning the Belt to the VW spec of 13  helped too
  
  Now onto timing the pump , then its rust busting time
• #28 by fatmobile on 15 May, 2013 00:14
•  I'll assume the belt was running off the outer edge originally.
   This can cause the I-shaft to bang up against it's thrust surface
   as the belt is dragged from the outside (coming off the pump)
   to the inside (heading toward the crank)
   until it breaks.
   The I-shaft normally pushes outward as it works against the vacuum pump gear.
   The belt constantly shoveing it back inward, only to have it shove itself back out against the "fragile" thrust surface.
   
   You mentioned changing the I-shaft seal, you didn't mention changing the O-ring.
   Sometimes it's so brittle and black it looks like metal.
• #29 by srgtlord on 15 May, 2013 07:19
• Well Im not going to lie, I havent checked the IM shaft bearings like I said I would. The O-ring and seal was replaced when I  did the timing belt the first time a year ago.  I needed to make sure the pump was not worn out from having the belt too tight. I still need to slap an oil gauge on the head to see if I did in fact Fu-bar something.