Need a new block

[Patrick]

Don't know where you are, but there's lots of 1.6 engines floating around. I've got a few here, 2 complete with broken timing belts, and more in pieces. I KNOW I'm not the only one. They're a lot more reliable and easire to get parts for!   

[Lando]

I looked on every VW forum I know of, local classifieds etc for a week or so.  All I could find were 11mm 1.6's.

We'll see how far this 1.5 gets me.  I've read enough success stories with the ARP studs that I'll give it a try.  I'll be keeping an eye out for a 1.6L incase this doesnt last.

[theman53]

If you put your location in your profile so we could all see it, maybe someone would let you know they had one close.

[Lando]

Oh i didn't realize I was with holding that information.  I am in salt lake city.

[Lando]

Here's a pic of the block, no cracks, deck is flat, bores look decent will just need a hone.

[shwak23]

Some one on here must be able to ship this man a decent 12 mm block. Ship in a tub with grey hound and it will probably cost $50 in shipping.

Sent from my DROID X2

[Lando]

Too late. The turd polishing has begun.

[fatmobile]

What causes the blocks to crack through the bolt holes is water and oil in the bottom of the bolt holes. When the bolt goes in the oil has nowhere to go so it splits the bolt boss when the pressure gets high enough.

no, thats not the only thing that splits these blocks..

the bolts only engaging half of the threaded boss works against them as well

i cracked a block from boost..

the head had never been off before i got it, and i removed it with extreme drive pressure..

To the OP:

ive built/rebuilt more 1.5Ds than i care to count, and they ALL crack..

the 1.5Ds are not really worth messing with. thats why i got rid of all mine.

get a 1.6. the 1.5 only gets like .2mpg better, and is way harder to get parts for.

 For some reason he left out the fact that none of his 1.5s had head studs.
 You'll be fine rebuilding a 1.5 with headstuds.
 
 Toby:  I still don't believe you can crack it by leaving oil in the holes, even when turning slow.
 Your example of it happening wasn't conclusive, you heard a noise and it cracked doesn't mean oil in the bolt hole caused it.
 No way I will ever believe the threads are so tight fitting that oil can't even pass through them.

[libbydiesel]

I had an 11mm block crack when using ARP studs with meticulously cleaned and prepped bolt holes.  I won't even do a head gasket anymore on an 11mm block.

[Lando]

I had an 11mm block crack when using ARP studs with meticulously cleaned and prepped bolt holes.  I won't even do a head gasket anymore on an 11mm block.

Is it possible that it had a slight crack to begin with?  The threaded holes are about 28mm deep, ARP studs bottom out, compared to the 12-13mm of threads on factory head bolts.  With over twice the thread length, I am hoping it wont crack.  If it does, whatever.  I wasted $100 and a few hours.

[theman53]

If you do crack it the 100. isn't wasted you could sell them to almost any gasser guy and recoupe the cost.

I have seen a video of a guy cracking the head bolt bosses with 45lbs on a junk block. The holes were filled with oil, 1/2 full, and a couple almost empty, but they did crack. All in all everyone is right on here from what I have heard about the 11mm blocks just being weak, so good luck.

[Lando]

If you do crack it the 100. isn't wasted you could sell them to almost any gasser guy and recoupe the cost.

I have seen a video of a guy cracking the head bolt bosses with 45lbs on a junk block. The holes were filled with oil, 1/2 full, and a couple almost empty, but they did crack. All in all everyone is right on here from what I have heard about the 11mm blocks just being weak, so good luck.

I meant the $100 I spent on the short block.  I know I could resell the ARP studs. 

With the deal I got on the eibach sportlines (the guy selling them forgot he had them until I made him scour his shed for parts), I wouldn't consider it a loss, even if the block did crack.

[745 turbogreasel]

Don't bottom the studs, hold them ~1/4 turn shy.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Don't bottom the studs, hold them ~1/4 turn shy.

bottoming out the studs will make them crack easier as well..

am i the only one that hadnt cracked my 1.5 from tightening the bolts?!

mine died from extreme drive pressure.

[Lando]

I wasn't going to bottom the studs out, just illustrating the point that they go to the bottom. 

Static analysis of the system with bolts bottomed out will result in 2x the radial pressure pushing on the sides of the threaded holes.