Transfer pressure while cranking

[745 turbogreasel]

Working on a no-start, and I only get a wisp of smoke out the tailpipe.
Anyone have a rough number to look for on a working engine?

[libbydiesel]

Are you talking about internal pressure in the injection pump?  It can be zero and still start.

[rabbitman]

Are you talking about internal pressure in the injection pump?  It can be zero and still start.

I had a weird issue a while back, backed out the regulator so it would have zero pressure and figured I'd tap it in little by little 'til it was good. It idled fine for a while and then bogged down and ran out of fuel. Totally just wouldn't pull it up to the IP from the tank.

I don't remember why I thought of it but I bumped the regulator in a bit and it started pumping good. I never figured out how it could quit pumping because of that.

[libbydiesel]

The regulator returns excess pressure to the pump inlet side of the vane pump.  I can see how with the regulator always open and the engine running, you would run out of fuel.  At the same time, that isn't just running with no internal pressure, that's running with the fuel free to return to the pump inlet.  If you replace the out bolt with an in bolt you will similarly have zero internal pressure, but the engine will run because the pump still has full fuel flow into it. 

[745 turbogreasel]

WEll I guess that wasn't my problem, I got a few PSI, and I'm pretty sure it will start once I get my other pump swapped on.

I had one hard start where I had to get jumped ( my $#^& battery only cranks for 20 sec or so), drove home fine, and it just wont fire.
Pulled my VSP/China 2yr old plugs, and they seemed different form the used branded ones I had laying around, so I got a set of Duraterms. no-go.
Retimed IP, no go.
" cam and IP, nothing.
Valves adjusted, no leaks or bubbles .
Tried to run from a can of fuel &new filter
ran the smoke screw in a few turns, cleaned out bolt...
Verified power at plugs and stop sol(which clicks, but wouldn't come out.  I do get fuel with the injector pipes cracked.
Cranks fantastic hooked to my truck.

This pump did have  a persistent warm restart issue where I'd have extended cranking or have to force glow.
Le sigh.
Seemed a little saggy in low end response, and oscillated a hair at low cruise sometimes.

[8v-of-fury]

I think you may be looking at no compression here.. If you've got fuel at the injectors.. and glows are good it will run. You've verified pump timing and solenoid operation. There really isn't anything else.

Apparently the engines will still fire without any internal pump pressure.

[745 turbogreasel]

Could be, but I'd expect to lose it one or two cyl at a time, and I'm starting with  six...
I'll try a rope start when I have a competent co-driver over.
I resealed a working 2 weeks ago but leakey pump, and put that on... no love.  If it was mistimed internally, I'd be about where I am now, but my donor motor didn't have a flywheel to check against, kicking myself for that one.

[libbydiesel]

If the pump is full, with the lines removed, you can crank the engine by hand and visibly see the individual delivery valves spurt.  Once installed, that's the easiest way I know of to confirm the internal timing of the pump.

[burn_your_money]

Does it smoke while you are cranking?

[745 turbogreasel]

Not as much as I'd like, but yes.

Thanks LIbby, trying that next

[745 turbogreasel]

Hand rotate spurt was good.

My friend came over and towed me around the field a few times, and it started, revved to 6000, and I had to kill it with the e/stop lever.
backed off the max fuel screw over a  few iterations till it would idle, and turn off with the key.
I have next to no throttle control, except by turning the max screw.  If I raise that just above normal idle, I can increase speed very slowly(to5-10 sec to 4000rpm) , but it doesn't come back down on its own. It will refire hot, waiting for cooldown now.
When idling low, it ramps like a common rail truck chipped for  lope idle, and blows black...I think in still air it will blow smoke rings.
Fixed a few minor leaks, and my new VC gasket leaked a quart out the side in 20 minutes 
This does nothing to explain why it would not start on the old pump either...

I also rewired my doors for power mirrors, central locking, eliminated a bunch of PO's old no longer relevent alarm and radio wires, and switched all my door panels to a better style (they have an actual handle to pull it closed by) and black, so progress has been made.  The old red interior was all busted up.

[8v-of-fury]

The throttle lever needs jumping a spline or two if you have ZERO throttle control. Probably need to turn the throttle shaft two splines clockwise in relation to the throttle lever looking down at the pump.

I found this to be a really good spot for 1.6's. TD or NA. Notice I also have my max fuel screw in a bit as well. I have my idles backed right out, and the max throttle just stopping it before full movement. The max fuel controls the idle at this point.

[745 turbogreasel]

Cold start was good, and after idling a minute, idle jumped, and it got a bit of throttle control.
Not sure if it will be splines, but I'll be giving it a shot after we try to open the mystery gun safe.
I'm confident I got it back on the same one, but I did go for a steeper ramp on the LDA, and wound the star wheel down a little.
DERP
It pays to double check yourself, put it on the old spline (1 off),  I have control again, and blow black on throttle instead of off.
Now to see what went wrong with the VC gasket.

[8v-of-fury]

The steeper side of the LDA and star-wheel will have no adjustment on idle. They are completely a throttle dependent fueling adjustment, not idle at all.

Check your splines, being one off will make it do exactly what you are describing. I've seen people have it so far off pushing the pedal actually lowered the idle.. lol