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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 27 Aug, 2012 17:56
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Burn's picture is what I am referring to.
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#16
by
danster
on 27 Aug, 2012 18:05
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Burn's picture is what I am referring to.
Ahh, ok, but that still leaves the question on what to do with the connection I mention if someone's pump has it. It certainly appears on late AAZ and early E-TDI pumps over here in Europe, and is controlled by some electrical boxes on the AAZ. It certainly sounds like it has an effect on the advance when one supplies 12volts to it. Definite change in engine tone and noise.
I wondered if it was some kind of temperature controlled gadget to restrict the engine during the warm up period and stop head cracking etc. Either that or it was energised on the overun to limit emissions.
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#17
by
libbydiesel
on 27 Aug, 2012 19:51
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I imagine that version has computer controlled timing. Is there a pintle lift sensor on any of the injectors? Any crank position sensor on the engine?
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#18
by
bbob203
on 28 Aug, 2012 08:21
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i have one of these on a pump on my n/a car and i dont even have it hooked up.
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#19
by
danster
on 28 Aug, 2012 08:33
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I imagine that version has computer controlled timing. Is there a pintle lift sensor on any of the injectors? Any crank position sensor on the engine?
There was no injector lift sensor or a crank position sensor on the AAZ engine. However there was a small sensor in the pump head fitted where one would insert the pump timing tool.
i have one of these on a pump on my n/a car and i dont even have it hooked up.
That sounds like a perfect opportunity to try connecting it and checking if there is a difference. As I mentioned previously, I noticed a distinct change at tickover, but no great difference whilst driving the car.
I actually have an old E-TDI pump here I that I used the pump head and cam plate out of so could get round to pulling the part off and getting some pics taken of it. It looks like it will engage with the advance piston judging by the location and shape of the pump casing around the area it is fitted.
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#20
by
Syncroincity
on 29 Aug, 2012 21:39
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Good info from all... I was amazed how loud/clattering the pump was at idle, I'll check next week with the solenoid powered to see if it makes a difference.
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#21
by
danster
on 30 Aug, 2012 13:44
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OK, so I got a chance to investigate the 1Z TDI pump today.
Here is the part in question. It clicks like a solenoid when given 12volts.
This is what it looks like when removed. There is a fine gauze / filter in that small green part with the square sections. It has a very small orifice on the end that you can just make out.
This is the pump casing with it removed. You can just make out drillings at 3 oclock on the outer, and 10 oclock on the inner. Basically flow must come from the outer hole and flow through the gauze / filter and out of the small orifice. It seems to control flow from one side of the advance piston to the other.
I was unable to check if it was open or closed with 12volts supplied.
Any thoughts on this?
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#22
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Aug, 2012 14:48
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Electrofy it with it removed. Keep your finger over it, it may ahoot out and be gone forever if you don't
.
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#23
by
mtrans
on 02 Sep, 2012 13:28
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I like to show you in this way:
that MS bolt is some presure regulator thing so if I block right side with MS bolt I`ll have manual control of advance,I`ll keep that presure regulator with tube from page 1 because it " HAS " to be with this setup
or
I thinking of using just plate on which I put 1/4" manual ball valve,and again on presure regulator with tube from page 1,so I can "ADJUST" inside of car in my drive time,maybe I`ll put some restriction after valve?
Your comment please,is this will work?
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#24
by
mtrans
on 06 Sep, 2012 14:37
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Come on boys,anybody?
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#25
by
745 turbogreasel
on 07 Sep, 2012 23:25
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Good info from all... I was amazed how loud/clattering the pump was at idle, I'll check next week with the solenoid powered to see if it makes a difference.
My car has this device
It is connected to the altitude compensating switch, and receives 12V when the key is on unless you are over 6000ft above sea level.
when the connector falls off, the pump is clattery like cold start advance at all RPM.
Also, behind the solenoid is a spring, and a bunch of tiny shim washers that want to fly everywhere.
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#26
by
mtrans
on 08 Sep, 2012 15:51
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Thx for replay,what abot "I thinking of using just plate on which I put 1/4" manual ball valve,and again on presure regulator with tube from page 1,so I can "ADJUST" inside of car in my drive time,maybe I`ll put some restriction after valve?Your comment please,is this will work?"
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#27
by
gldgti
on 10 Sep, 2012 03:41
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The main trouble here is there are lots of different solenoids used in the advance circuit on various VE pumps.
My 1Y pump has a solenoid for advance that nobody has yet pictured. :-) The one on my pump must be supplied with 12V (AND EARTH!!! it has 2 wires), otherwise it allows pressure to both sides of the advance piston (apparently no dynamics advance - but there is no bleed either, which makes it act less than predictably when its not powered).
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#28
by
mtrans
on 10 Sep, 2012 14:49
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Yes I agree,that solenoid on my picture is too hot for 10 sek,and then I start to think about
manuel ball valve?
By way,many time some say more pressure inside IP is retard -some not,so I find in ESI that say more pressure is ADVANCE,one for all time,I can put photo if you wish.
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#29
by
stewardc
on 16 Oct, 2012 07:57
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Hmmmmm, now mine doesn't seem to have that hookup at all. Is this still another version?