Can I run this broken block?

[CarlosA]

Ok guys, my first new thread here - i`ve been reading the forum for over a year and posting on some other forums.

I dragged home a really nice 1979 rabbit a while back, had a seized engine - not too bad, everything was fixable except the hairline cracks on 3 headbolt holes.

So I spent 2 months looking for a block, eventually dragged home a whole parts car and found that it had thrown a rod .. the intermediate shaft was also disintegrated and piled up in the pan. Remarkably the cylinder was in good shape aside from this chip at the bottom of #1.



Assuming its magnafluxed, bored and otherwise in good shape how many of you would run it? This car is *not* a daily driver and won`t see a lot of miles, i`m also just fine with a failure and having to find another block in 2-3 months if it doesn`t work out for some reason. With that said, i`d also run the block with the hairline cracks... and just might if this doesn`t work out. Can`t find anything around here!

[theman53]

If you put a piston in it and rotate it can you see if it even touches it down there? If it doesn't I would run it for sure. If it does I would still pick this block over one that has cracks, especially if it is the original 1.5 engine that was in the 79.

[R.O.R-2.0]

take a round file to the injured area, make sure to knock the edges off.

ive used a block with a WORSE gouge out of the bottom of the cylinder..

[CarlosA]

Good to know, thanks guys.

I`m definitely willing to "take a chance" and so on, so this sounds good to me.

The piston does rub a little now, but after honing or boring it won`t. I have a set of very new oversize pistons from the 'cracked' block.

btw, both are unfortunately 1.6 11mm blocks. Studs will be going in.

[CarlosA]

Went ahead and tore it down the rest of the way tonight. Looks fine aside from that little 1/2" x 1/2" area. The intermediate shaft also disintegrated and destroyed its bearings, but the block surface below the bearings is fine. The cyl still show cross hatch and all the rings are nicely in spec, so if no hone is necessary that would be awesome!

[R.O.R-2.0]

CHAMFER THE BROKEN EDGES!!

if you dont file down the sharp edges of the break, it will wear a gouge in your piston!

file that S*** down smooth..

[CarlosA]

Will do.. the piston that came out is also destroyed from hitting there, lol.

[VW Smokr]

CHAMFER THE BROKEN EDGES!!

If you can get a Dremel or die grinder with 200-160grit sanding drum in there, it might even make a smoother chamfer than most round files. No stress risers to start more chips, cracks, or scuffing. Goes without saying, that the block needs to get pressure washed to get out any remnants of an exploding intermediate shaft or wayward rod pieces.

X2 on the previous comments re. your other block's cracked head bolt holes; they will never torque up right and stay snug enough that you can have any confidence in the car. OTOH cleaned up just a little, I've heard the price on scrap iron is up lately!

Good luck building back the 'new' block.

[R.O.R-2.0]

CHAMFER THE BROKEN EDGES!!

If you can get a Dremel or die grinder with 200-160grit sanding drum in there, it might even make a smoother chamfer than most round files. No stress risers to start more chips, cracks, or scuffing. Goes without saying, that the block needs to get pressure washed to get out any remnants of an exploding intermediate shaft or wayward rod pieces.

X2 on the previous comments re. your other block's cracked head bolt holes; they will never torque up right and stay snug enough that you can have any confidence in the car. OTOH cleaned up just a little, I've heard the price on scrap iron is up lately!

Good luck building back the 'new' block.

being a 79, its got a 1.5D in it factory.. and those are NOTORIOUS for cracking blocks..

[erice1984]

why not bore it and throw 1.6 parts in it?

[R.O.R-2.0]

why not bore it and throw 1.6 parts in it?

in what?

1.5 and 1.6 use the same bore dude...

the crank/rods/pistons are different..

the 1.5 block has cracked head bolt bosses.. its useless.

the 1.6 block has a injured bore.. its still way useable with the right preparations..

[CarlosA]

Both of these blocks are early 1.6 11mm with the small crank gear. Pretty funny, the parts car is a 1985 golf with all the 1985 parts bolted to this "reman" short block - including the 12mm head!

Not sure where the guy went wrong but either the rod broke and then broke the IS or vice versa. He thinks he ran it low on oil.

Glad to hear I can use it anyway, i`m happy with that .. will get in there with a dremel and treat it like a "notched" smallblock. Will get everything nice & clean in there then have it hot tanked at least.

[R.O.R-2.0]

have you confirmed that the 79 block IS INDEED a 1.6 block? they look identical..

1.5 will have a D on the back, and its engine code is CK...

[CarlosA]

have you confirmed that the 79 block IS INDEED a 1.6 block? they look identical..

1.5 will have a D on the back, and its engine code is CK...

Yes confirmed. And its junk anyway - has the tiny cracks. Although i`m convinced that with studs threaded all the way to the bottom the block would hold up fine.

It is a CR code, full rebuild with first oversize pistons just 20k ago.

[R.O.R-2.0]

have you confirmed that the 79 block IS INDEED a 1.6 block? they look identical..

1.5 will have a D on the back, and its engine code is CK...

Yes confirmed. And its junk anyway - has the tiny cracks. Although i`m convinced that with studs threaded all the way to the bottom the block would hold up fine.

It is a CR code, full rebuild with first oversize pistons just 20k ago.

the heat cycles open and close the crack.. the stud would work its way loose just like a head bolt.. maybe faster being that it wouldnt stretch as the head expands..