Any suggestions as I put the complete head on my engine?

[mtnbob]

I am getting ready to put the complete cylinder head back onto my redone TD block and internals. What else needs to be done first? I've purchased new bolts(couldn't afford the ARP studs), cleaned off the top of the block and bottom of the head with brake cleaner. Does the engine need to be at top dead center and how might i do that? Does the head need to be in a certain position? I know the book has torque values but is there a certain way to tighten the bolts down?
Thanks in advance

The Get Mtnbob Back on the Road Saga!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[8v-of-fury]

The book should also have the torque procedure as well as the torque values. Your gonna need the engine and cam at TDC to time it anyway, so before hand would be easiest. So you could physically see the #1 piston at the top.

[bajacalal]

The Bentley manual states that you should install the head not with the engine in TDC (pistons protruding) but a few degrees back from TDC, so that all the pistons are retreated approximately mid-way through their stroke in the middle of the cylinder. Then, after it's installed, set the head then block and pump to exact TDC. When you turn the block back to TDC, the only pistons that come up should be the ones that where the valves are closed, unless you go too far or go in the wrong direction.

[8v-of-fury]

Ok. I will rephrase and add some thoughts to my last post. Just make sure that your TDC mark does in fact have #1 piston at TDC, then retard or advance it a few degrees so nothing will get wrecked.

[mtnbob]

Ty  I'm trying to figure this out and appreciate the feedback!!!!!!

[bajacalal]

Basically, you turn the crank counter-clockwise from TDC and you will see that the 1 and 4 pistons move back down towards the bottom. The 2 and 3 pistons come up from the bottom. When they all meet in the middle, that's about how you want it. Then put the head on and turn it clockwise back to TDC and stop. This kind of surprised me when I read it, but after trying to wrestle the head on, and line it up right, and the heads on these have no dowels, it made sense to me why you wouldn't want the pistons protruding. Remember the pistons stick out past the block (though they should be about even with the gasket) and you wouldn't want to catch something on them. Getting the belt on is another issue, because the crank will move when you try to tension the belt. You kind of have to figure out where it wants to go and try to get all the slack on away from the crank and at the tensioner.

[libbydiesel]

I never install a head with the cam in place or at least I leave the caps loose.  That way there is no risk to bending valves when installing the head regardless of the position of the crank/pistons.

[Dakotakid]

Take a couple of the old head bolts and cut off the top caps using a hack saw or good dentures.

These two old modified head bolts will be used as dowels to hold your new head gasket in place as you carefully lower the rebuilt head onto the block and new gasket.

Use the same hacksaw blade to cut a slot into the remaining old head bolt (where the top was cut off). You will be using this slot to rotate the bolt with a screwdriver. Once you have the gasket and head in place, you will rotate (loosen) the old bolts and then use a small pencil-magnet to pull them out of the old holes.

Remember to use the file to nicely round off the new head of the old bolts to minimize scratching your head as you place it on the block. Round them off as soon as you cut your screwdriver-slots.

You don't have a Bentley? So much of this is discussed so very clearly in every Bentley I have ever owned. At least I thought it was. Anyway....there it is. Did you at least replace the oil seals on the valves?

[mtnbob]

No I wasn't planning on opening up the head at all. Should I?
The head was very clean when I got it. Ty for the headbolt tip

[burn_your_money]

Personally I don't like using old bolts for dowel pins. The head is a heavy bugger and if you slip or anything you will gouge the head on the bolts. I've always just set the head down as close I could to perfect and wiggled it that last mm or 2.

[mtnbob]

So nothing is used between the block and the head other than the head gasket?  Just checking.

[theman53]

If you are really scared you could take a piece of old fuel line or any rubber hose that will fit in the head bolt holes and stretch it over the head bolt slightly. Feed it through the head and then onto the gasket. That is how I do connecting rod bolts.

Nothing in between the HG and the head or block.