Blown Head Gasket - Eh?

[libbydiesel]

2. I will re-do the oil drain line from the turbo so the port points straight down.

The oil drain on the K14 is a challenge in a vanagon.  When installed on the golf/jetta manifold and tilted to 50°, the drain points right at the wastegate and there is very little space between the two.  The easiest way I have found to get it clocked exactly right is to remove the metal pipe and tap the center cartridge to NPT.  To ensure that you don't get any metal shaving inside the cartridge, you can clamp it in a vice so the drain is pointing down and use a greased tap.  I have then used a 45° male pipe to barb fitting and clamped on braided stainless oil return hose.  I've found that to clock it at true 6:00, I've had to have the return line wrap around the turbo away from the engine and then down to the pan.  I'll post a couple pics tomorrow.  

Another part that would be tough for me to find would be an AAZ timing belt cover to replace the crappy metal one I have.

The upper cover is available from VW (or backdoor sites like 1stvwparts.com) for $60 if memory serves.  See below...

Apparently my 1.9 has a 1.6 injection pump and bracket. The PO had this thing set up to switch to bio-diesel - huge aluminum tank, heaters, solenoid valves, etc.. maybe that has something to do with the pump selection. However, I'm removing all that stuff and wonder if a 1.9 pump (possibly a Giles) would serve the engine better? I suppose the pump size may also have something to do with the fit-up in the Vanagon - it is quite snug under the deck and I don't know if a 1.9 pump would fit (if it's much larger). In the event that I don't have room for a larger pump, and the 1.6 pump seemed to work, should I send it to Giles to work over based on my application?

The PO probably used the pump and brackets because that's what they had on hand.  There's nothing wrong with that except that the timing cover/pump bracket design of the 1.6 is different from that of the 1.9.  The 1.9 covers do a far more effective job ensuring that you don't get garbage in your timing belt and cause your engine to self destruct.  In order to use the 1.9 covers, tho, you will likely have to replace the pump bracket, the two covers and the timing cover backing plate.  

The 1.6 and 1.9 pumps are dimensionally the same size.  The 1.9 pump is slightly more suited to the engine, but the differences are minimal.

Is the K14 turbo the best turbo for a Vanagon application? My typical driving is freeway but I also spend a lot of time chugging around mountain roads in the Sierras. I will be installing a water to air IC from Frozen Boost to help add some density to the O2. Any recommendations welcome. As I mentioned earlier, the shaft has a tiny amount of side-to side play but spins freely. Should I consider rebuilding the K14?

As far as the performance in a vanagon is concerned, the K14 is my favorite of the stock turbos.  The K03 has less top-end, but is far easier to fit as it doesn't interfere with the driver's side mounting bracket.  BTW, I'd still be interested in a picture showing the mount/bracket setup for the driver's side on your van.  All of these turbos SHOULD have some side to side play.  This is normal with journal bearing turbos.  If the wheels aren't rubbing the housings leave it alone.

[theman53]

The 1.9 is slightly better than the 1.6 pump. Meaning if your 1.6 pump is a TD pump and in good condition then run it. Lots can be done to them to make a more power. A guy that used to be a vendor on here had a stock pump that made 195whp...the rest of the engine was not stock.

I bet almost anything your precups were the cause.

[Gizmoman]

Thanks Libbeydiesel, Ill stick with the pump as is. I figure I can make whatever bracket is needed to adapt a new cover.
I'll also be sure to post a few detail photos of the motor bracket the PO built - it aint pretty but it seemed to work. The stock aluminum one on the opposite side wasn't doing much as there is only one stud holding it to the mount bar insulator and the nut was missing that held it there.

I agree that three loose pre-cups are not a good thing but I still don't get how combustion gasses got out of the chamber and into the water without leaving some sort of trace. The cavity itself is still sealed.

Maybe I"ll never know for sure.

I'll keep you all posted on the progress.

Thanks so much.

[theman53]

Where you loosing water? There may not be a visible hole but the water is right there and to get the diesel to ignite the pressure in there is a bunch. A little crack could cause things you don't realize.

If it was just white smoke then that was improperly burnt fuel not coolant and it was the precups.

[libbydiesel]

Here's a couple pics of the drain of a K14 in a vanagon perfectly clocked.

[Gizmoman]

Where you loosing water? There may not be a visible hole but the water is right there and to get the diesel to ignite the pressure in there is a bunch. A little crack could cause things you don't realize.

If it was just white smoke then that was improperly burnt fuel not coolant and it was the precups.

Hard to say as I didn't let it run long. It did get hot extremely quickly though - would loose precups cause that as well?
Thanks for all your help on this.
I bit the bullet today and ordered the complete head off e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/290557711265?item=290557711265&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:3160&vxp=mtr#ht_1080wt_1029.
I've read tons of stuff on this site about which are the best head bolts - any thoughts from your perspective?

I have to get some snapshots of my custom motor mount bracket for Libbeydiesel and get them posted.

Thanks again

[Gizmoman]

Libbydiesel,
Here are the snapshots of the fabricated mount you requested. Thanks for the oil drain "turbo clocking" pics.
BTW - that's a sweet looking casting on the LH motor mount. Is that to a 1.9?

Also what size NPT tap do I need to mod the turbo?

If you need more pics, let me know.

As I mentioned to theman53, I bought the head on eBay. I did some research on it and while the casting itself can't be verified that it is German, the other bits are top notch. Should have it on Tuesday.

What is your preference regarding the new head bolts?

Thanks again for you assistance.

[libbydiesel]

Can you post a picture of the driver's side carrier bar also.  Your bracket is custom and the interesting part to me is that it doesn't even use the diesel-vanagon mount.

I don't remember which NPT size it was.   I think 3/8".  It was darn close to the thread of the tube.   

The cast piece on the one I showed IS the stock bracket although I modified it by chopping off the nose and rebuilding it with 3/8" steel so it fit around the wastegate of the K14.

[Gizmoman]

Here is a shot I took before I took the motor out.
The support bar looks "stock" to me.

I already received the new head today - sure is purdy
Tomorrow I pull the bottom end apart and start checking parts

[Gizmoman]

OK,
I'm slowing working out the details of the rebuild. . .
New Oil pump
New Head
Pump and injectors off to Giles
Turbo rebuild kit from Jake at Dieselicious

Libbybapa mentioned that my K14 oil drain line was not clocked at 6:00 as it should be and recommended a fix. It was probably close to 4:00 with the straight pipe and possibly why the area around the turbo was always covered with an oil film.
 I ended up getting an M6 banjo fitting and re-clocked the waste-gate pot as the pot fitting was right in the way. This won't be an issue as I have rubber hoses going to my home made boost controller so hooking it back up won't be an issue.

While the fitting does require the center section to be out by a degree or two, the width of the drain port will still insure that 100% of the oil drains. A new hose will route out around the down-pipe and back to the fitting on the pan.

Here's a link to all the photos of the fitting installed (mock-up)https://picasaweb.google.com/114854647445001577932/BanjoFittingAllowsProperClockingOfTurboDrainLine?authkey=Gv1sRgCOnAseHbnMvR4AE

This project is moving slow but steady and I'm reading this site like a paperback book - thanks all!

[libbydiesel]

Just an FYI, your angle on your engine stand is not the angle when the engine is installed.  With it installed the turbo flange is vertical.

[Gizmoman]

Right - the engine stand doesn't have a hole at the correct angle and slipped a bit before I snapped the photos.
I re-clocked the engine with the exhaust flange at 90 (vertical) and the fitting is now slightly more angled but still should easily drain all the oil.
I also drilled a new hole in the stand for this orientation in the future.

You were correct in your original statement though - it's not exactly 6:00 and while there is clearance around the banjo and bolt to loosen and spin it if needed - I couldn't remove it without disassembling the turbo. Although the same would be true with the 45 degree NPT fitting as well.

What I like about the 45 you suggested is that it would flow the oil much better than the banjo fitting.

Thanks

[Gizmoman]

Here's the final fix for the K14 oil drain. The exhaust flange is vertical (as it would be in the van - thank's Libby ) and the drain is at 6 0'clock.
I ordered 2' of SS braided hose and two new AN-8 fittings for a new hose connection. The old hose was a bit buggered up anyway.
This took way longer than it should have but the banjo fitting just wasn't cutting it and I don't think it would have drained as well.