I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D

[CRSMP5]

what turbo flange did calloway use? someone is repo them and that looks like direct bolt on...

[Toby]

Post me some pics. It looks like I will have to get it running to sell it.

It is such a sad thing when guys bail on such an expensive project when things don't go right. Most projects have teething pains. If you give up on it now you will likely regret it for the rest of your life.

I know what it is like to get frustrated with a project. It hurts much less if you make a buck or at least break even. Once you get the turbo off you will have a better idea what went wrong. Unless the turbo was junk when it went on, I would suspect some FOD. For me that would be much easier to take than an unexplained failure. Don't lose heart. I haven't been paying much attention to this thread till just lately. What kind of turbo do you need to get it running? I have one off of a 5GTD that I think is a K24. I will look in the morning. I will loan it to you if it will get you going.
Jason

[theman53]

I need the HE 221w. I had 2 professionally rebuilt vw t3 hotside with a Mercedes t3 cold side. One let loose in 100 miles this one let loose in about 1,000 miles. The shaft snapped on the last one, the first one the nut came loose in the compressor wheel. Thanks for the offer.

Alcaid, let me know as soon as you can. I blocked the oil feed and had it running last night. All is perfect with the engine, just a little smokey with all the oil and no exhaust hooked up. Looks like a K14 size and I maybe able to adapt it onto the junk I have easily.

[theman53]

I am confused now.

The cad shows the 4 bolt Downpipe flange but the picture shows a 5 bolt? The MDI T04 flange as you said was 4 bolt but the T25 is a 5 bolt and looks like what is above in the pictures. Please let me know what it is if possible, Alcaid or others.

See the 2 on this page that look like it.
http://www.psiconcepts.com/store/index.php?l=product_list&c=11

[410]

Have you thought about mounting the gtb2256?  You already own it so all it would take is a little labor to make it work.  The last vnt install I did I used a wastegate  to control the boost with an adjustable stop to adjust peak boost.  Super simple and easy to dial in.

[theman53]

I did.

I am currently setting it up for the jeep and really don't like the VNT part. I am not good with that part. It is hanging there, but I think I will wait for the jeep on that one. That said, I would be interested in the setup you did with the wastegate. The jeep needs tons of work.

[410]

I used a wastegate from a K03 and built an adjustable lever stop to limit how far the vanes can open.  Basically a small piece of angle iron that bolts up to the turbo and is threaded with a bolt and lock nut for the stop.  I initially tried it with just the wastegate but couldn't get over 12 psi at WOT.  I added an air bleed to the wastegate to get a little more max boost but that increased the boost while cruising to unacceptable levels (15 psi@2500 rpm) once we finally achieved the max boost we were looking for.  The lever stop to limit how far the vanes open gave me an adjustment for max boost and the air bleed on the wastegate worked well for adjusting boost under light throttle.  Once it was set we never had to touch it again.  But, even at 12 psi it felt really good.  That gtb2256 turbo would be well suited to that 1.6.  I am almost certain that there would be less lag with the 2256 then your last turbo.

[theman53]

There was very little lag with the last turbo. It lit almost identical to the VNT 15 in the mkiv that I daily. Take pics as I have decided to only use that in the jeep since it is so big outside dimensionally I don't think it would work well in my MK2. Also, even if it would I want the quicker spool for the heavier jeep since the wife isn't a normal diesel head like myself and will want power right away I am sure.

Still I would love to see a pic or 12 of that setup. Sounds like it would be trail ready with angle iron...that is always a good start.

[theman53]

Alcaid, do you have a better compressor map than this one? This is comparing the old 45 trim to your HE221W.

[Alcaid]

5th hole on flange is not being used so 4-bolt vs. 5-bolt, they are exactly the same.

[theman53]

5th hole on flange is not being used so 4-bolt vs. 5-bolt, they are exactly the same.

Cool as I found the 5 bolt a ton cheaper than the 4 bolt flange.

Alcaid, you have PM on the turbo subject.

[theman53]

I bought the cast manifold and a downpipe flange. This one will be V banded as I will not make another one for me personally that isn't V band. Getting my DP off the mk2 is going to be fun.

Alcaid, I will send you the money soon.

[theman53]

Onto better thoughts. I bought the turbo from Alcaid and have been thinking about the way it ran previous. And I have came to the conclusion I was off when I thought the K24 on the old engine didn't spool. It did, just as this new turbo did, but it was gutless on the lower RPM end. I think I have figured it out. I think it is the INTAKE MANIFOLD design.
   
     When I made the sausage stuffer intake I wanted to help out the bottom as much as possible. All the N/A diesels I had driven all seemed to have decent torque off the bottom. But the old mech. TD engine in this car had nothing until boost, even with my Giles pump it wasn't impressive. If you look at all the N/A intakes they have 1 runner for each cylinder. Now onto the current engine, it would pull instantly. I thought it was the turbo lighting faster, but it wasn't. I figured that out in the last miles with that turbo, you could feel when the turbo hit if you did full pedal pulls. It was great, but it pulled very well until then...To conclude I would say if you have the option of building a long runner intake with specific volume plenum do it.

[Toby]

I need the HE 221w. I had 2 professionally rebuilt vw t3 hotside with a Mercedes t3 cold side. One let loose in 100 miles this one let loose in about 1,000 miles. The shaft snapped on the last one, the first one the nut came loose in the compressor wheel. Thanks for the offer.

I would sure talking to the "professional" that rebuilt the turbos. The only thing that should cause the nut on the turbine shaft to come off is if it wasn't tight to begin with. Any turbo that self destructs in 100 miles was FUBAR when you put it on as long as a foreign object did not get ingested. Were they both done by the same guy?

[RabbitJockey]

the nut only came loose the first time, the second the shaft just snapped, the second one had left handed threads.  i think the nut coming loose was just coincidental and caused by the turbine shaft bending and premature wear of the bearing allowing the compressor wheel to rub the compressor housing which loosened the nut.  don't know if lucas agrees, what do u think think lucas?