I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D

[shwak23]

Time for a tripod.

Sent from Outer Space

[theman53]

So thats just ported intake and exhaust ports on the head before and after? Or is that with bigger valves and all your other mods?

If that's a simple port and polish. It seems there is great gains to be had on the intake side. I've been curious about doing some home gasket matching and polishing to try and eek out some more efficiency.

Also do you have numbers that compare the stock TD IM to your sausage stuffer flow or are those secrets

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

I have no numbers on the sausage stuffer intake or the stock intake. Although my machinist said the stocker will "probably" flow similar to mine at redline, but it will have so much tumble that unless it is at redline it will flow a lot less in all other situations, especially low to mid rpm.

On the 2 charts. The top chart is the new oversized intake valve CFM ratings. The  bottom chart is my old head that just had stock sized stainless valves and the port and polish vs. stock numbers on that same head with no port and polish. I just wanted to show what the difference was between stock, ported, and big valve 7mm stems ported.

Just to show you I answered you before the page scrolled over...

I got more information from the machinist and he said the intake went up about 20% and the exhaust 16% on average. While I have the intake numbers above I don't have the exhaust so I will have to figure that out.

[theman53]

I think the last time something was messed up with the turbo. This noise sounds different than when the compressor bailed on me but the same noise as when CRSMP5 and I took that spin. The turbo when boosting over 10 psi makes a loud turbo whine too. It kind of scares me as it is loud and sounds like it is spinning too fast. I have no clue how fast it is going and that is why I wonder what the total PSI should be set at.

Have you posted a video of this beast yet?

Sent from Outer Space!

1st and 2nd gear pull little of 3rd to coast down. From dead stop with 10 psi and 750f egt...way more to go. You can barely hear the turbo whistle as compared to the way it is in car. It is a cell phone format so I don't know what you can use. I used media player and it plays it with no audio. I hear it just fine on the phone though???

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ghlu8ih9dawxgb/1%2B2%20gear%20pulls%2010psi

[Dakotakid]

Wait....I want proof the car was not on jack stands in that video........

[8v-of-fury]

You're brave eh? Approaching the 5000RPM mark each shift?

Right on.

[theman53]

Ags with the 3.67 r&p, so I haven't calculated but I thought I was shifting later than that.
AGS (86-90 1.6 Diesel) ***3.94*** gone and replaced with 3.67,  3.45 1.94 1.29 0.91 0.75

I have the 185/60r14 so with a 30mph and 55mph shift that would be approx. 5,614 and 5,788 respectively.


http://scirocco.org/gears/

[Rock3tman]

...your audio file of the 1-2-3 pull sounds awesome on quicktime!   

What do you think the high rpm capability of my mostly bone stock 1.6CY engine is with the following changes:
 - completely balanced bottom end with ARP rod bolts and first oversize KS pistons,
 - stock head, new stock cam, all new mechanical valvetrain for turbodiesel,
 - stock intake manifold,
 - stock injection pump,
 - VNT-15 turbo with Libbydiesel actuator & frozenboost AWIC,
 - stock FN transmission with 3.67 R&P?

Also how much horsepower do you think you make and what clutch are you using/is it enough to hold it long term?   At what psi boost level would you expect stock intake valves to be held open?

[8v-of-fury]

I'd say you are probably right on track with the power of a stock 1.9L AAZ. You have less displacement and an inter cooler.. so it is a fair comparison.

approx. 75-80hp 110-120tq. (at the crank)

Also the intake valves do not have such issues you are speaking of. As soon as one cylinder is done taking in air the next one is ready to start accepting. People have run (for no other reason than to be stupid) like upwards of 40psi on a stock head.

[RabbitJockey]

Could be more.  Depends on how much boost and what kind fuel pump/fuel settings it has

[8v-of-fury]

I assumed he meant stock fueling when he said stock pump lol.

[libbydiesel]

The RA/SB GTDs were rated at 80hp with the only effective difference being that they were intercooled.

[theman53]

...your audio file of the 1-2-3 pull sounds awesome on quicktime!   

What do you think the high rpm capability of my mostly bone stock 1.6CY engine is with the following changes:
 - completely balanced bottom end with ARP rod bolts and first oversize KS pistons,
 - stock head, new stock cam, all new mechanical valvetrain for turbodiesel,
 - stock intake manifold,
 - stock injection pump,
 - VNT-15 turbo with Libbydiesel actuator & frozenboost AWIC,
 - stock FN transmission with 3.67 R&P?

Also how much horsepower do you think you make and what clutch are you using/is it enough to hold it long term?   At what psi boost level would you expect stock intake valves to be held open?

I don't have it figured out for your stock application, but I know I had to go to a stiffer valve spring as I increase the intake valve diameter by about 25%. Also my turbo moves more air than the k24 or stock vw t3, that being said, my setup was good on paper to 22psi before needing the stiffer valve spring. After that on paper it could have been held open a bit. On a stock sized valve you should be good for whatever psi a stock pump could make your turbo spool or upwards of 70psi *guessing* before a stiffer intake spring is needed.
As far as HP I don't know right now, but I am hoping for 200+ whp when I finally have it where I want it. I am using a clutchnet 6 puck with a 6 spring hub and the clutchnet red pressure plate. The clutch setup is 210mm and 2 pin flywheel. I think it is a forged BFI flywheel from a gasser as I haven't seen one that looks like this one ever. I got it from CRSMP5 and he has no clue what it is either.

As for your power question I would guess around 100hp? That vnt is supposed to flow more than the older turbos and the awic  with some fuel I think it possible. It really depends on how much fuel you can throw at it. I think how much cold air the turbo can push will determine how much fuel and therefore the HP. If you don't touch the fuel screw it won't make any more than it does right now. My engine is a CY with a mech head, first overbore, and some other goodies so more is possible.

[RabbitJockey]

there is an old thread where someone had built a mild 1.6 with a vnt and he gteched it and everything, that was quite a few years back

with a hydraulic motor valve float can occur on the exhaust side from too much back pressure, but thats only on an engine with hydraulic lifters.


lucas!  I think 200whp is possible, i wouldn't expect more than that tho.  its hard to know what to expect tho since your setup is pretty unique.  I definitely think your engine with those valves will make the best of that turbo.

[theman53]

I think it is down to turbo for me. If Dave made 195 and MJF made close to 225-250 on stock valves and similar pump, dave had less pump, I think it is up to the turbo as the deciding factor. Going to 40mm intake valves is a ton more air than stock, so I can add some fuel, but if the turbo can't give me cold enough air that's it. You said the inducer and exducer *could* make 225-250 in a gasser, so I am hoping for 200+

[theman53]

I would like to say on the clutch... I have a south bend in the TDI and it feels way better than the clutchnet in the MK2. Different animals I know but just looking at the 2 clutches construction if I had to do it again I don't know which I would pick. The south bend is nice but I don't know what it could handle, the clutchnet is harsh but it handles a bunch. I think southbend might have a better quality control, so I think I may go that route. For a build like yours and not needing a performance clutch I would do a Luk clutch any day. My old Luk clutch held the old engine just fine. It was a 210mm as well but in 10,000 miles it held just fine with no signs of wear.