I am starting a 1.6TD build version 2, hoping for more than 40,000 miles :D

[Alcaid]

I don't buy that one either. Surge normally ends with broken compressor wheel or broken shaft, not breaking loose the compressor wheel nut. And engine swallows LOTS of air even when letting of the go-pedal. Lots of bigger turbos than yours have survived on the small 1.6 without dismantling

[Gizmoman]

Guys, I am way out of my league here but could the design of your heavily modified intake have anything to do with how the engine handles the "surge" you mentioned?

[Alcaid]

A better intake should only help staying away from surge

[RabbitJockey]

turbine shaft was bent, his builder said since old t3's have big heavy(slow spooling) turbine shaft that it bent instead of broke(like the pink song).  i do agree it is very odd but it makes alot of sense imo, when he lets off the go pedal, the turbo loses all of its drive pressure in the exhaust manifold, and that huge volume of pressurized air thats left in the intercooler piping tries to go backwards through the compressor violently stopping the spinning of the compressor wheel and reversing flow.

and also alcaid, i do not mean this in any kind of way where i disagree or don't believe u, i just want to help lucas get this figured out, but how many of those larger turbos used on 1.6 were also newer and higher quality stuff like schwitzer and holset which may have even had a ported shroud(anti-surge housing)?  like i said just questioning everything trying to get issue resolved.

[RabbitJockey]

and also another thought, an anti surge compressor could quite possibly solve this problem.  im almost certain it would need to be custom, but i don't think it would be too much work, just some grinding, some hole drilling, and then welding on a slightly larger inlet pipe

[theman53]

yeah I posted this not to say I know but more to say I don't.

[theman53]

I also was there and saw him put the final torque on it. I know he torqued it I was just thinking since I didn't see lock tight on the end of the shaft he didn't use any. It was there the nut just wore it off the end it was still there by the comp wheel end of the shaft. Again it doesn't surge from the surge line it seemed from what he said it surged from not having drive pressure.

He is fixing it he just won't be fixing it if the same thing happens again. For free anyhow.

I am open to more discussion. I really think all of us can figure it out.

[theman53]

http://db.tt/zjHfaVkf

http://db.tt/zjHfaVkf

[libbydiesel]

It would be fairly easy to test.  Add an EMP gauge.  Watch them both and see if the drive pressure drops off faster than boost  when you let off the pedal.  If it doesn't, then the turbo builder messed up.  If it does, then add a BOV that keeps the intake pressure at or below the exhaust pressure. 

[Alcaid]

Is the turbo VSR balanced once assembled? If not, vibrations are one cause of things magically disassembling themselves...

[bbob203]

Is the turbo VSR balanced once assembled? If not, vibrations are one cause of things magically disassembling themselves...

I hope so i had a turbo rebuilt by this guy too...

[theman53]

Yes this and all of his turbos are balanced with that lazer looking machine. He does great work as much as I can tell. I have taken serval turbos to him for people and this is the only one that failed so far. He offers a 12 month unlimited mile warranty.

Libby idea is the same idea rabbit jockey and I have talked about. I will probably be trying the bov. I figure if it isn't needed it will never function. If it is then I am good to go

[CrazyAndy]

It would be fairly easy to test.  Add an EMP gauge.  Watch them both and see if the drive pressure drops off faster than boost  when you let off the pedal.  If it doesn't, then the turbo builder messed up.  If it does, then add a BOV that keeps the intake pressure at or below the exhaust pressure. 

Your builder does make a good argument about the source of the turbo damage.  I am with other Any on this one;  I'd test to see if the EMP drops off before boost  once you get it back together.  Just pop out the ET sensor and put in a temporary EMP gauge and run it for one to two boost pulls.

The problem I see is if you do need to install a re-circulation valve (BOV is a ricer word to me; better to reroute the air back into the intake boot like the gassers do stock), since I don't know how you'd set it up so that the recirc valve dumps when EMP is less than boost.  I also don't know how this wold affect acceleration events when the EMP is lower than boost, however why it would be that way I don't know.  I honestly don't know a lot about intake/exhaust manifold pressure correlation under spool and boost to help devise an on-paper prototype at the time.  Sorry.

[RabbitJockey]

emp is almost always higher, especially during spool up.  emp is lower when u decelerate tho.  i would think the bov hooked to the exhaust would probably work the same as a gas engine except for that you would need a lighter spring in it since u don't have vacuum to help pull the valve open.

also there are a few companies that already make a bov that is actuated by exhaust drive pressures for diesel applications but it looks like they may work in a little bit more complicated of a way than what i am thinking.

http://www.jgsturbo.com/dpptbov.pdf

http://www.jgsturbo.com/jgs600bovDkit.html

also heres a link where some diesel truck guys are discussing this exact issue

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/cheap-way-install-blowoff-valve-t148177p4.html

[RabbitJockey]

and just to add more, i've spent my evening thinking about this whole thing alot(its not even my car!!!!)

for now he could easily solve the issue by not driving with full acceleration and gently releasing the skinny pedal instead of suddenly

i also called josh "powered by spearco" to see what he thought about the bov idea since he has worked on many different types of cars, and he agreed it should work.