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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Jul, 2012 18:33
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He secretly wants to turbo. He just hasn't figured it out yet.
yea, once he figures out how much power he is going to lose from running a stock TD intake on a n/a engine..
once that happens, he will just turbo it the rest of the way. lol..
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#16
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Jul, 2012 19:25
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Don't talk that way. Money doesn't grow on trees you know. And after the machine shop clipped me pretty hard on the rebuild work on the head I picked up from BillybobF I just am not sure I can turbo at all. We will see on restriction. Remember I don't need to drive 85.
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#17
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 Jul, 2012 23:42
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Don't talk that way. Money doesn't grow on trees you know. And after the machine shop clipped me pretty hard on the rebuild work on the head I picked up from BillybobF I just am not sure I can turbo at all. We will see on restriction. Remember I don't need to drive 85.
it doesnt matter.. that intake is going to be a HUGE restriction on a n/a engine.. i promise you this. im not just saying this to pop your bubble, but because you are going to kill your performance, and mileage. you will be STARVING your engine of all the precious air that it NEEDS to operate efficiently..
go ahead, install it. you will understand why i am going on about this..
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#18
by
ORCoaster
on 18 Jul, 2012 00:17
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Well I will always have the big box to go back to if my ideas don't pan out. I still like the fitment of the intake with all the other stuff I have on the firewall though. At least I can get my hand down there to feel for a leak or tighten up a hose clamp. Very much a tight squeeze with the original setup.
I could always try two hoses to the intake. Do something else with the blow by line.
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 20 Jul, 2012 22:29
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What restriction? I finally got the engine head all tuned up and took it out for a test drive. I don't seem to lack any pulling power. Churns along just fine. Maybe that head work is only working two cylinders now.
I will have to fab up an oil breather hose to it some how but other than that I don't see a problem. Will let you know if I can't wind it up on the way back to the big city come Sunday.
DAS
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#20
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 21 Jul, 2012 13:57
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the OPENING to the actual manifold, is an oval its about 1.5" long, and 1" wide, and those numbers are on the LARGE side..
i know the difference.. i notice the difference from one manifold to the other with BOOST, so without boost, i expect the results would be even more noticable..
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#21
by
wolf_walker
on 21 Jul, 2012 17:00
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Worst come to worst, there's a 2nd opening nearly as large for the overpressure valve one could open up and port to filtered air on that early TD intake for NA use.
While the opening on the NA intake is huge, the size of the filter, the oval opening on the early NA intake COVER especially is TINY, no smaller than the inlet on a TD intake.
I've run those, and I've run, and do run, a later one with the round side inlet and haven't felt any diff on a NA motor. The intake runners on the stock NA setup are also tiny, though I suspect they are tuned so some specific RPM or such, quite possibly to make the damn things slightly more quiet. I have an engineering paper somewhere here from way back in the day that I think mentions that. Diesel intakes are loud on NA's. I think he'll be fine if I had to make a guess. I can see how at a glance one would think the NA intake would flow more, but I don't believe it's the case in normal, non performance, use.
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#22
by
ORCoaster
on 21 Jul, 2012 23:28
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Well, I will report later if the run to Portland is a PITA because of the intake. Might throw in the old one just in case it gets unbearable. After all it is only a few screws to swap it out. Which by the way I had to purchase shorter ones for the TD intake. The boxer ones were about a half and inch too long. Some 8x45 mm hex heads did the trick.
I managed to remove that funny black deal on the end of the intake and just fabricated a flat plate to go on there. I drilled that plate out and put a elbow on it and have the VC oil hose routed to it. I looked through my leftover plumbing pipe box and came up with an adapter and some solid pipes that I routed to the right of the radiator under the battery. Good opening there for colder air. I shouldn't hear much of the intake noise as I have moved it forward. Now looking for a K&N filter I guess to set up there.
I had the intake of the old box cut off on a diagonal just after the tiny round part transitioned to the widest oval. Not sure what the square area is on that compared to the 1.5 inch round opening of the new manifold. I could math it out for ya but I think the standard circle wins anyway.
Sure like the look of that one. DAS
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Jul, 2012 19:29
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Well, I will report later if the run to Portland is a PITA because of the intake. Might throw in the old one just in case it gets unbearable. After all it is only a few screws to swap it out. Which by the way I had to purchase shorter ones for the TD intake. The boxer ones were about a half and inch too long. Some 8x45 mm hex heads did the trick.
I managed to remove that funny black deal on the end of the intake and just fabricated a flat plate to go on there. I drilled that plate out and put a elbow on it and have the VC oil hose routed to it. I looked through my leftover plumbing pipe box and came up with an adapter and some solid pipes that I routed to the right of the radiator under the battery. Good opening there for colder air. I shouldn't hear much of the intake noise as I have moved it forward. Now looking for a K&N filter I guess to set up there.
I had the intake of the old box cut off on a diagonal just after the tiny round part transitioned to the widest oval. Not sure what the square area is on that compared to the 1.5 inch round opening of the new manifold. I could math it out for ya but I think the standard circle wins anyway.
Sure like the look of that one. DAS
Dale, i didnt bring this up because MAYBE it will take away performance, im saying this because ive already been there, and beat my head on the wall. its a hard wall, it hurts.
if you need a pancake manifold, i can build a better top half for it. basically making it just like my manifold..
i KNOW my manifold flows good. i know the TD intake does NOT..
pull your exhaust manifold in a few months. check out the soot deposits in the runners for cylinders #1 and #4.. you will be HORRIFIED that you can tell the difference in soot thickness, just because the TD intake FAVORS the center cylinders.. BADLY.
the outter cylinders have to fight for air..
the only OEM intake manifold i have seen with a WORSE design, is the EGR crossover intake for the 5.7 GM diesels.. mount a big round EGR valve in the OPENING of the intake manifold! great plan! thats alright tho, because its EASY to build a block off plate for the EGR valve.
if you had your OEM n/a intake modified so the tiny part of the snorkel was gone, then you are DEFINITELY going backwards with the TD intake. TD intakes do NOT FLOW RIGHT with no boost.
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 23 Jul, 2012 00:29
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Well drive wasn't bad but then what can a guy tell going 45 in a 65 zone most of the night? RV's are soooo sloowowww. Then the butt heads would do 65-70 in the passing zones. Turkeys.
Once on I-5 I could roll right along and was testing the difference between the veg oil and diesel fuels and am wondering if I need to turn the fuel screw in a bit. Need to have the pedal nearly to the floor to go 70 in fifth. Put it on diesel and it goes mighty well, might think on variable adjustment from the interior while under load. Mtrans has me wondering if this is what he is experiencing.
May need to have injectors serviced as one is running poorly and my simple cleaning didn't solve the problem. Would dropping new nozzles in do the trick?