Need help with IP

[87hernandez]

Hello everyone... I've tried time and again to search through posts before posting a few questions that I have...
Please bare with my basic knowledge of the 1.6td

I have a 1.6td idi high output SB code engine (bought it from a guy)
My first question is where would i attach the fuel hose to the IP?
I currently have a clear plastic hose on the IP it goes from one connection to the next making some what of an "arc" figure  and for the life
of me I cannot figure out where I need to connect the fuel hose to get diesel into the IP?

[8v-of-fury]

Alrighttttyyy.

Hold your pump like it is in the picture, and where number 1 points to on the not engine side of the pump is where the fuel inlet goes. A larger 17mm banjo bolt goes in the hole.



Does the car run? Also pictures will help us help you 10 times easier.

[burn_your_money]

And using that same picture, #3 is the OUT and the banjo bolt should have OUT stamped on it. It won't run right without that. Also, on the out, there is a small line that runs to the injectors.

[87hernandez]

Thanks guys for the info!!! Now I just hooked up my fuel system!!!

I will try and post pics when I figure out a website that I can upload them too...

Just to give you a rundown of what I'm doing I imported a 1992 SB code engine from Germany
and I have it hooked up to the back of my 73 baja bug. I really want everyone to see my project.
So pics will be posted when I get that figured out.

Also I'm trying to figure out which wire is for the glow plugs I have a red/white and yello/red also 2 blue wires. I don't have the Bently manual and doing research on the SB engine is close to impossible.

Thanks for you help once again!!!

[ORCoaster]

Well you are in for a fix now with that engine aren't you? 

Glow plugs are all attached to the bus bar strip for most diesels. Then a wire, probably the red and white one you  mention goes to a fuse box, that you don't have but could just wire a 40 amp one in line.  From the fuse the same sized wire would go to a relay, something else you probably don't have but a generic one will work.  That relay gets turned on by the ignition switch an a timer hold current there for a set amount of time.  Depending on engine age.  Once the plugs are hot for that amount of time the current cuts off and you hit the starter and varrrommm off it goes.  Well it should if it is working correctly.

Being that you lack all the necessary parts I would wire them up with the Ford Relay Mod and throw a fuse in the between the plugs and the rely.  Then I would just hit a separate switch to the relay count the seconds off or watch the clock for 15 or 20 clicks and hit the starter.  Once fired up turn the glow plugs off.  You could even do a push type switch on the left side of the dash that you could hold down while starting and then let it go once running. 

Does that get you down the road?

DAS

[87hernandez]

Thanks for the insight ORcoaster I will try my red/white wire. I like your idea I was originally going to add a switch as you mentioned an just count the seconds... 40amp fuse is what I'll use between the switch and the wire.

Yes this engine is a Project all on its own. I just finished installing the diesel tank and fuel line. I'm using an electric lift pump so I am hoping I should have no problem with air getting into te system.

All I need to do now is due a radiatir modification and hook up the hoses.

Question on the hoses. Is it necessary to have the heater core hoses go into something? Or can I block them off? As I have no heater core at all.

[burn_your_money]

You can block off the heater core hoses. That's what the mk1 engines do.

As for getting information about your engine, you can basically ignore the fact that it's special and just get info for any VW diesel from 80?-92. Obviously the closer to 92 you are the better. 87-92 golfs and jettas have CE2 wiring and should basically be identical to your engine.

www.photobucket.com is who hosts my pictures.

[libbydiesel]

There are only three differences that I'm aware of with the SB vs. the typical MF 1.6TD.  It was fitted with an intercooler, a water-cooled K14 and GTD nozzles.  Everything else is the same.  If you do not fit your conversion with the intercooler system, then it is no longer "high output".   

[87hernandez]

Yes I do have the IC just a matter of having constant air flow to it it is and air/air
My wire question would be in the pic below
The little blue wire with the big red wire is from the alternator and the group of wires come from the back of the engine
Here are some pics of my baja diesel

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/be40617f.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/cdbfcef3.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/09f4a82b.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/ecacbea8.jpg

[ORCoaster]

This is like fishing.  Sometimes you get lucky and don't go hungry.  Given that the red wire is that large and comes from the alternator I would say it is the one that charges the battery.  The blue wire from the alternator is used to turn the ignition light off on the standard setup.  You don't need it. 

Other wires in the bundle are more confusing.  Blue with stripes of yellow, black and red are generally coming of the sensors near the hoses connected to the head with a coolant flange.  There were senors to measure temperature and to turn off the glow plug relay if the engine was already warm.  These may connect to an aftermarket gauge and become functional.  Measure the resistance when cold and again when hot.  That might give you a starting place for a temperature gauge. 

The engine also may have an oil pressure gauge wire that is located in the top of the block or at the oil flange.  Some worked to turn on a buzzer if the pressure was less than a certain number of lbs.  The other was kind of standard and would turn the oil light off on the dash if pressure was greater than X. 

Other engine wires you will need are the fuel solenoid.  That big plug looking thing on the back by the four check valves on the distribution head.  Number 8 in the picture.  Almost forget that was there.  That wire has to have 12 vdc applied in order to get the fuel out of the IP and to the injectors.  Cut the power and it cuts the engine.  Might be another switch you can wire in.  No one will steal your ride that way.  Well, they could but they couldn't do it quickly.  Taking the spring and sleeve out of that operation will allow fuel to pass without voltage.

Unless you have other guizzmos on the IP that should do it for the wires in that bundle. 

Hope that helps. 

[libbydiesel]

This is like fishing.  Sometimes you get lucky and don't go hungry.  Given that the red wire is that large and comes from the alternator I would say it is the one that charges the battery.  The blue wire from the alternator is used to turn the ignition light off on the standard setup.  You don't need it.

I think you have the wires right there, but the blue one IS needed.  It operates the alt light AND excites the alt.  Without that wired correctly, the alt will not start charging.

[ORCoaster]

So Libby, does that blue wire get 12 vdc applied to it from the ignition switch?  Or need a load like the dash light to work against to get the alternator to charge?  And don't we need to get voltage to the field coils too?  Those might be the whitish wires in his picture.  Perhaps a picture of the back of the alternator would help me think on this.  If  thinking is the operative word here at all.  Too long of a hot day.

[87hernandez]

Thanks for the info on my wires guys!!!

Here are some picks with the engine in the crate maybe it'll give a better view
The wires?

Good to know about the wire needed for the IP just to clarify would that be the wire comming from the valve cover?

I will take a pic of back of the alternator in the morning for a better view...

In regards to the radiator hoses I know on the IP side of the engine there are 2 main hoses and on the flywheel side of the engine there is a Jose that comes out of the block are these the 3main hoses that are to be used?

I'm almost done mounting my radiator I'll post pics when I get it mounted right.

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/170e14bf.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/e1660d8f.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/ad45f8a6.jpg

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q500/87hernandex/7c1356d1.jpg

[libbydiesel]

So Libby, does that blue wire get 12 vdc applied to it from the ignition switch?  Or need a load like the dash light to work against to get the alternator to charge?  And don't we need to get voltage to the field coils too?  Those might be the whitish wires in his picture.  Perhaps a picture of the back of the alternator would help me think on this.  If  thinking is the operative word here at all.  Too long of a hot day.

My understanding is that current passes through the alt light to the blue wire which excites the alt and allows it to start charging.  Prior to the alt charging the current flows to the alt on the blue wire and allows the alt light LED to illuminate.  When charging, the voltage is higher on the alt side of the circuit and so, because the LED will not pass current the other direction, it goes out.  This is the reason why the alt light MUST function in order for the alt to start charging.  If the LED bulb burns out, the alt no longer charges. 

[87hernandez]

Thanks for the info libbydiesel I have read on other posts that the blue wire is needed to excite the alternator to charge. Since I do not have an instrument cluster how would you recommend working my blue wire?