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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jun, 2012 08:36
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You should have painted the accelerator lever and cable holder celery.
Fix the accel lever. You belt is not tracking very well. To fix it, loosen the bolts behind the pump and raise the bracket at the rear by the 4th pump bolt. You are missing the bracket that goes between the alt bracket and injection pump bracket.
How is the fuel flow in the lines?
Glow plugs are all working properly?
Compression is good?
Battery and starter are tip top and crank the car in a whirrr?
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#16
by
shwak23
on 29 Jun, 2012 11:38
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Fuel good. Compression good. Glow Plugs all tested pre install this month. Starter and battery good. I have the bracket for the timing belt cover but this is just a preliminary start just for laughs.
After it starts I plan on neatening everything up.
I only wound it in 1.5 times from what it was set at. It is getting fuel but as soon as I pull the throttle it seems like fueling is.instantly cut until I let it go. It very nearly starts but I think it needs a nice rev to get it there.
I plan on redoing the timing one more time tonight just to be 200% sure it is perfect.
Sent from my DROID X2
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#17
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jun, 2012 12:04
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I have started several pumps without the accelerator lever even connected and the max fuel screw out so far the idle was no longer affected by it. They will start and run that way, but it takes a fair bit of cranking.
Did you confirm that the injection pump is not out 180° internally? You can do so by removing the metal lines and rotating the crank by hand while watching the delivery valve squirt when the cam lobes for #1 are up.
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#18
by
shwak23
on 29 Jun, 2012 13:23
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How can the injection pump be 180 degrees out if it is a keyed pulley?
Sent from my DROID X2
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#19
by
shwak23
on 29 Jun, 2012 13:25
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I will take a video when I get home of what happens when I crank it over.
Sent from my DROID X2
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#20
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jun, 2012 15:03
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The camplate inside the pump can be installed two ways. One of them results in correct timing. The other results in the timing being 180° out. The easy way to be sure is to check the squirt from the delivery valve.
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#21
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Jun, 2012 19:55
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The camplate inside the pump can be installed two ways.
You really have to wonder why they didn't build that part of the pump to be put together one way and only one way. Like one side of that fork larger than the other or some kind of extra metal tab that would mate up to the end of the driving shaft.
Oh, that is right, WE are not supposed to be rebuilding them pumps. Bosch Boys only.
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#22
by
shwak23
on 02 Jul, 2012 13:00
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Fixed. Hold for explanation and more.
Sent from my DROID X2
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#23
by
ORCoaster
on 02 Jul, 2012 18:43
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Where is the suspense music on this forum? Should be playing now.
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#24
by
shwak23
on 02 Jul, 2012 21:24
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You should have painted the accelerator lever and cable holder celery.
Fix the accel lever. You belt is not tracking very well. To fix it, loosen the bolts behind the pump and raise the bracket at the rear by the 4th pump bolt. You are missing the bracket that goes between the alt bracket and injection pump bracket.
The throttle lever was the issue. We ended up messing with that and turning the fuel back down to where it was originally.
Basically we ended up lining the top mark on the throttle shaft with the center line of the array of lines that is on the lever.
It's like those lines were put there for a reason...
Also my celery mistake was fixed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rxWDNwF0wA&feature=plcpI tried but I can't for the life of me get this thing to embed. Which is annoying. But w.e. here it is.
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#25
by
damac
on 02 Jul, 2012 22:44
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what the heck dude, i told ya to do that and posted a pic of my pump so you could see the index marks
if you had the lid off and no springs you can tell that there isn't enough throw with the stoppers set to go through the right range of motion with stock fuel settings so thats why you sometimes hear people mention marking that lever and how getting it a couple spots off can be the difference between starting or having the engine run away.
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#26
by
shwak23
on 02 Jul, 2012 23:16
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what the heck dude, i told ya to do that and posted a pic of my pump so you could see the index marks
if you had the lid off and no springs you can tell that there isn't enough throw with the stoppers set to go through the right range of motion with stock fuel settings so thats why you sometimes hear people mention marking that lever and how getting it a couple spots off can be the difference between starting or having the engine run away.
Oh yah you were totally right and I used your pictures and the other two pumps I had laying around as a reference. It just took me some time to get to it. I was a little nervous about taking those springs off the throttle arm. The other style throttle arm is the only one I have taken apart and it is such a *** to get back together. This one was really easy though.
Sent from my DROID X2
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#27
by
ORCoaster
on 03 Jul, 2012 11:49
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Good to have resolution. Now where was that picture of the cervasa? Drive responsibly now that you have the power. Great that all is well in VW land. Glad to have added to the discussion. Not sure I actually helped on this one.
later DAS
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#28
by
shwak23
on 03 Jul, 2012 16:59
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Good to have resolution. Now where was that picture of the cervasa? Drive responsibly now that you have the power. Great that all is well in VW land. Glad to have added to the discussion. Not sure I actually helped on this one.
later DAS
I believe you were one of the first to suggest throttle arm. Def appreciate any help or advice whether needed or not.