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Coughing Sputtering with no throttle. Nothing with full.
by
shwak23
on 27 Jun, 2012 21:50
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I am still trying to start my 1.6 Diesel. I have got it to cough and sputter but not start. When I push the go pedal to the floor it instantly stops sputtering and when I lift my foot off it goes back to sputtering. WTF Mate?
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#1
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Jun, 2012 23:06
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Have you tried loosening the locknut, 13mm one on the fuel screw and giving the smaller one a 1/4 twist in? Almost sounds like it isn't catching the fuel curve at idle.
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#2
by
libbydiesel
on 27 Jun, 2012 23:14
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Yeah, I'd say turn the fuel screw in a solid turn to start.
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#3
by
shwak23
on 27 Jun, 2012 23:39
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Thank you
I will give that a try.
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#4
by
libbydiesel
on 28 Jun, 2012 10:28
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I would go so far as to have it running and gradually run the max fuel screw in until the idle starts to rise. Take care during this process to not touch the stop solenoid with any tools as you can make a nasty short. Also be fully prepared to pull the wire off the solenoid in case it starts to rev uncontrollably. In other words, beforehand make sure the solenoid has the spade style connector and not just a loop fastened on with the solenoid nut. Depending on the history of the pump, you may need to remove the lock sleeve on the max fuel screw and turn it in further than the lock sleeve will let you. Once the idle starts to rise, you know you're in the ballpark for the max fuel.
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#5
by
shwak23
on 28 Jun, 2012 19:12
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I tried turning it about 1.5 times. .5x at a time. It got closer to starting but moving the throttle seems to be cutting the fuel or something.
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#6
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:17
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Did this pump have the accelerator arms removed? There is a problem when that happens. But there is also a correction.
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#7
by
shwak23
on 28 Jun, 2012 22:02
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I assume it did when the kid resealed it.
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#8
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 22:22
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Time to mark where it is at and adjust accordingly. Normally an index mark is on the top of the shaft some direction. Note that position or better yet photo it. Then remove the tension on the top spring and remove the 10 mm nut and lock washer. Raise the spring keeper off the shaft and set to the side. Without the tension of the springs you can feel the movement of the governor assembly. And maybe when the mechanism is pushing back on the springs of it. I turned the idle stop all the way in and rotated the arm until I could just feel tension starting on the governor. Then I looked where that index mark was at. I pulled up on the accelerator arm and released the shaft from the arm. Then I rotated the shaft one click counterclockwise from the initial index position. I lowered the arm and reassembled it.
There may be a better description here someplace from Libby but I have to find it. If I do then I will edit the post with that link. otherwise good luck. It may take two clicks but sounds like you are not positioned correctly at this point in time.
later, on to the archives. DAS
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#9
by
shwak23
on 28 Jun, 2012 23:25
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#10
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Jun, 2012 00:01
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Well the pics have me wondering what the heck is with that accelerator arm. Why is it bent 90 degrees up in the air like that? Never saw that before. Could this have been running like that in the past?
That mark across the shaft in the middle of the nut is what I use to focus on when rotating the arm around it. The marks you scribed will help you orient the shaft to the arm.
And honestly is that pink paint? or just my monitor out of whack.
I grab the ends of the springs with a pair of vice grip needle nose pliers. Then I push back against the spring tension and slip the spring down and under the tab and release the tension that way.
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#11
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jun, 2012 00:05
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What you describe is how it will be with the max fuel screw out way too far still. Post a picture of it.
I would do just what ORCoaster described as a good starting place for the lever to shaft orientation. You may have to adjust that a spline or two as you get the max fuel and idle screws tuned to where they should be.
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#12
by
damac
on 29 Jun, 2012 00:21
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It does look like your arm is bent, that needs to go down 90 degrees so that when your accelerator cable comes around it will be in line with the throw and the ip bracket.
Also did your fuel screw have a locknut on it before messing around with it? If so I would put it back to where it was, if not then I feel your pain because every pump I have come across with messed up settings, I never could tune "right"
Also every pump that I have with that governor arm has had the index marks like mine below. If somebody messed with the other stuff something may have changed but that spot always made sense on mine as far as throw of the lever and where the stoppers were.
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#13
by
shwak23
on 29 Jun, 2012 01:38
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Here is a picture of the fuel screw. I removed the safety collar yesterday. Also here is a picture of my ballet slipper and celery motor. It was for my girlfriend but now sure doesn't want it so now I just don't care.
Now you can say you've seen a pink (ballet slipper) diesel.
Edit and as far as I know that throttle arm has been like that. Maybe it isn't stock but it still works. Well actually lol this entire thread is about how it doesn't work.
Sent from my DROID X2
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#14
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Jun, 2012 10:09
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Well based on the colors of the motor I would say you have bigger problems than just sputtering. We will be sending black and silver paint out today.
Well it looks like you have the screw in a good amount and I think you took our advice on running it in a bit more. I would undo the fuel solenoind screw and jumper that wire to the post so that you could pull it in a hurry when you try and fire it up.
I would work on dropping that arm down 90 degrees as well. It may work but it is all wrong.
Pink and Celery? Was this car built in the 50's NO. Very ahh, unique you might say.
