yes...and then some..amsoil is good as well
Quote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmokay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on that Got exactly what redone?Was it pressure tested?check it for warpage just in caseWas valve clearance checked? make sure there is some clearance with the cam lobes pointed up.check the one from the donor block for a big warp at the middle, or a crack to H2o.Never presume that because a machine shop did work that it was done right.Quote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmand i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i ... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression? clean it well, and measure stickup of all 4 pistons very carefully. if this block previously hydro locked in these 2 adjacent holes, the rods may be quite bent. all 4 should spec for the same head gasket thickness at the least.What is the procedure you are currently using to tighten the head bolts?IMO ring wear in 2 cyls is not the most likely thing.
okay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on that
and i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i ... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression?
okay so ive been moving the IP towards the engine and still white smoke and then back away from the engine and it seems to be less smoke but still kinda white blueish smoke also wont idle and the throttle lever still does nothing.. does that mean bad IP or i just need to get a guage and hook it up and just really time it. I also have another IP i was thinking about hooking up and seeing if that changes anything. on another note i put some clear tubing to one injector to another injector and it does seem fuel is flowing between them? what does this mean? i still have yet to get a clear tube from the return fuel but what if no fuel is returning ?and also does the white smoke mean unburned diesel fuel?
Having the clear tube between the last injector and the Out Banjo will tell you if there is air in the system.
This kind of basics?Quote from: 745 turbogreasel post #65 on July 06, 2012, 03:26:14 amQuote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmokay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on that Got exactly what redone? i believe the head was checked for warpage and cracks and the valves and shims were replaced everything was redone on the head that could be redone.Was it pressure tested? i believe so its been a while i dont remember ha check it for warpage just in case that was done. Was valve clearance checked? make sure there is some clearance with the cam lobes pointed up. i have the correct shims in place. check the one from the donor block for a big warp at the middle, or a crack to H2o.Never presume that because a machine shop did work that it was done right.the block i pulled the head off had a broken rod and i did check the block i didnt see any cracks to h20.Quote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmand i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i ... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression? clean it well, and measure stickup of all 4 pistons very carefully. if this block previously hydro locked in these 2 adjacent holes, the rods may be quite bent. all 4 should spec for the same head gasket thickness at the least.What is the procedure you are currently using to tighten the head bolts? I have APR head studs and i got the head torqued down no problems IMO ring wear in 2 cyls is not the most likely thing.
Quote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmokay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on that Got exactly what redone? i believe the head was checked for warpage and cracks and the valves and shims were replaced everything was redone on the head that could be redone.Was it pressure tested? i believe so its been a while i dont remember ha check it for warpage just in case that was done. Was valve clearance checked? make sure there is some clearance with the cam lobes pointed up. i have the correct shims in place. check the one from the donor block for a big warp at the middle, or a crack to H2o.Never presume that because a machine shop did work that it was done right.the block i pulled the head off had a broken rod and i did check the block i didnt see any cracks to h20.Quote from: vw-tim on June 28, 2012, 11:12:26 pmand i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i ... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression? clean it well, and measure stickup of all 4 pistons very carefully. if this block previously hydro locked in these 2 adjacent holes, the rods may be quite bent. all 4 should spec for the same head gasket thickness at the least.What is the procedure you are currently using to tighten the head bolts? I have APR head studs and i got the head torqued down no problems IMO ring wear in 2 cyls is not the most likely thing.
Timing is not absolutely crucial for basic running, it is only then even somewhat crucial for optimal performance/economy while driving. You will find that it will run with the timing anywhere between like 0.80mm and easily as high as 1.20mm.Do the ATF soak, regardless. Whatever you don't use put in to the fuel tank, no harm cleaning it too.