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#165
by
Blocksmith
on 05 Oct, 2012 15:25
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If you've got it that torn down, I think it'd be a real shame to not stitch weld the chassis while you're at it..
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#166
by
theman53
on 05 Oct, 2012 15:37
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If you want it to stay in this condition forever. RUST BULLET. Nothing works better.
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#167
by
vw-tim
on 09 Oct, 2012 23:37
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so just wanting to update alittle bit ive been wire wheeling the bottom cleaning stuff up i should have it all cleaned up pretty soon then i was thinking of cutting out the rust and prepare to weld in new floor pans what do you guys suggest on cutting the metal out?
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#168
by
vw-tim
on 09 Oct, 2012 23:37
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If you want it to stay in this condition forever. RUST BULLET. Nothing works better.
i will definitely consider that! isnt it just like the por15 stuff?
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#169
by
nathantheengineer
on 10 Oct, 2012 00:20
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Strong work!! looking great. I love the wooden rotisserie too, fantastic idea.
I use a selection of grinders, mini - 9".
Used plenty of plasma's in the course of work but always on heavy gauge ( 10mm and above) never tried it on bodywork.
I do keep looking at the one in Frost restoration catalogue.
Keep it up fella.
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#170
by
theman53
on 10 Oct, 2012 05:23
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Some people say that Rust bullet is the same as por15, but I have used both. I would pay 2x as much for Rust Bullet as I would for Por 15. There is no comparision to rust and corrosion protection. Plus, I know they are not the same as Rust Bullet is UV stable and Por 15 is not, unless you buy the topcoat for it, then you have to use the original underneath. I haven't used it for a boat, but on the directions it says if you follow the directions on Rust Bullet and put 2 coats on a boat hull, it will protect it indefinately in saltwater use...I believe them from the results I have seen. >endplug
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#171
by
vw-tim
on 10 Oct, 2012 09:18
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Some people say that Rust bullet is the same as por15, but I have used both. I would pay 2x as much for Rust Bullet as I would for Por 15. There is no comparision to rust and corrosion protection. Plus, I know they are not the same as Rust Bullet is UV stable and Por 15 is not, unless you buy the topcoat for it, then you have to use the original underneath. I haven't used it for a boat, but on the directions it says if you follow the directions on Rust Bullet and put 2 coats on a boat hull, it will protect it indefinately in saltwater use...I believe them from the results I have seen. >endplug
okay right on! ill go with the rust bullet then ha
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#172
by
vw-tim
on 10 Oct, 2012 13:16
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okay so i have a question i have pretty much both floors wirewheeled and cleaned up but should i do the rest of the car where the tank goes and the wheel well? or should i leave the factory like rubbery stuff? what do you guys suggest?
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#173
by
theman53
on 10 Oct, 2012 14:34
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If you are going to rust bullet do it all.
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#174
by
vw-tim
on 10 Oct, 2012 15:51
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If you are going to rust bullet do it all.
okay i will i guess i should do it all the first time rather then risk it later
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#175
by
vw-tim
on 01 Nov, 2012 12:11
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so just wanted to do an update got the engine bay all painted a solid color pretty much just spray bombed it but its looks better then it did so itll do. just wanted to post up some picks hopefully ill be buying a welder soon and then ill get these holes in the floor all fixed up!
before:
after:
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#176
by
vw-tim
on 03 Nov, 2012 21:05
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#177
by
CarlosA
on 03 Nov, 2012 21:48
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If you aren`t cutting into structural areas, and aren`t buying pans - just start welding together patch panels, you`ll be surprised how fast it goes. You can beat on the metal and form it to fit the most difficult areas too. Use a tire or a block of wood for an anvil if nothing else.
I know you aren`t experienced with welding, but once you have some practice its possible to do great work with even a $99 harbor freight welder. For this kind of work that is so rusty and dirty i`d hang up my TIG and go to the stick welder - or if no experience use ANY flux core wire welder.
Just tack in an area, move on every few inches and do the same, go over it all with a wire wheel on a grinder then repeat - you`ll get much better results than if you try to tack on top of slag, etc. The cleaner you can get your weld area the better your results will be, even if its rusty and pitted.
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#178
by
vw-tim
on 03 Nov, 2012 22:22
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If you aren`t cutting into structural areas, and aren`t buying pans - just start welding together patch panels, you`ll be surprised how fast it goes. You can beat on the metal and form it to fit the most difficult areas too. Use a tire or a block of wood for an anvil if nothing else.
I know you aren`t experienced with welding, but once you have some practice its possible to do great work with even a $99 harbor freight welder. For this kind of work that is so rusty and dirty i`d hang up my TIG and go to the stick welder - or if no experience use ANY flux core wire welder.
Just tack in an area, move on every few inches and do the same, go over it all with a wire wheel on a grinder then repeat - you`ll get much better results than if you try to tack on top of slag, etc. The cleaner you can get your weld area the better your results will be, even if its rusty and pitted.
okay good deal man! and yeah i have 0 experience with welding but I guess doing these floor pans is a good time to start and learn how to weld. so somthing like this would be decent enough to replace my floor pans?
so you think just picking up this would be good to learn on and just get these floor pans done money got really tight for me.
http://www.harborfreight.com/Wire-Welder-90-Amp-Flux-68887.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjk5NzI0ODUiLCJza3UiOiI2ODg4NyIsImlzIjoiOTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5NCJ9%0D%0Ai was saving up to get this should:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306073_200306073should i just save up the money or just go with the cheaper HF one and maybe once i get more experienced and $ saved up buy something better? what do you think cuz it looks like i just need to be welding in new floor pans nothing else.
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#179
by
CarlosA
on 03 Nov, 2012 22:58
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The Hobart is a much better machine and should you ever want to weld together something then having the MIG ability is a big plus. The extra control you get will also make it a less frustrating learning experience. Check eBay for good deals on these sometimes with a little more gear included for the price. I really would like to have any of the smaller Hobarts up to the 210. I had a Lincoln 180C for a while, basically the same machine in terms of quality.
The $99 harbor freight welder is alright too if you are either patient and get it dialed in well OR plan to toss it after this single project is done and gone. I wouldn`t go so far as saying its a good starter machine, because it may be frustrating to learn on it. I can weld anything with a battery and some form of consumable so thats why I give it a couple stars...
