Cold Start Problem

[zolorin]

Ok gang, I want to thank you a lot for helping me troubleshoot my VW Caddy.  Especially PowayJetta,  He came over and showed me how sensitive the smoke screw and the idle screws are and helped me to get the monster running.  The day was warm 75-80 F so the truck got to run and ran somewhat nice but few things I needed to address.

So I have done those things (change the gasket for the oil filter bracket/boss),  Change the thermostat housing and gasket (the new plastic was a disaster).  and he suggested to charge my battery.

So today, the weather is 65-70 F and the pickup had some issues with getting started (after charging the batter for half a day).

It finally started (after 10 tries) and I have readjusted idle it runs it is happy (the wife thinks that a pickup is cute, but wants it running, she does drive stick  )

But few things I am troubled

1. hard to start even in a warm day.
2. excessive smoke
3. number 3 injector had some bubbling around it

Timing was set to 0.8 and maybe a bit too late?  how does late timing affect startability and smoke production?? I am new to the IDI (my other vehicle is a TDI).

So what should I do to resolve hard start issues?

Thank you

[theman53]

.9mm timing should help you

[R.O.R-2.0]

maybe even a full 1mm if you can...

[zolorin]

rechecked the timing and it was 1.15mm, toned it down to 1.0mm and it was starting/coming back to life after 5 tries. 
So I am confused.  I thought I adjusted it to 0.8 -- maybe I did not have my head over the pointer on the crank.

Anyway.  Any other suggestions?
Also how does the cold start advance assist works on the 81 rabbit pickup?  I have the cable hoocked up but where does it get actuated?  is it vacuum, manual (like choke on a bike) or some electirc circuit???

Thank you

[8v-of-fury]

1.15 is a little high, and probably had to do with the hard starts.. if it is still starting hard I would back it down some more even.. Maybe .95mm or .90mm.

If you have the cable hooked up, can you not see where it is actuated?? lol It is a manually activated by your hand and manually activated in the pump as well. It is not like a choke any form of the matter.. The only similarity is you are pulling a handle attached to a cable.

What it does is physically advance the timing of the pump, so if you had it at 1.15mm and you pulled the lever out thinking it would help.. there is no other reason why you had rough starts. (also since when is 70f COLD!? it is 45f here in Ontario and I am loving it!)

[zolorin]

It does not want to pull out.  (I know sounds like a personal problem).  but the lever is stuck closed and I am afraid of breaking it off.  But it is hooked up.

[ORCoaster]

You should be able to get behind the IP and undo the keeper nut that holds the end of the cable to the lever itself.  Then it should pull out of the dash.  If the lever it self is not rotating then the O rings might be binding it all up inside the housing.  Fixing this advance lever is a pull of the IP as far as I know.  But once off the car it is easy to work on. 

How are the nylon bushings that hold the lever to the shaft that actually does the turning and pressure on the piston?  Mine were all fouled up so I replaced them with some from the hardware store. 

[libbydiesel]

...or the little pin could have fallen out of the back of the timing piston and that would be why he's getting erratic timing readings...

[zolorin]

IP was stripped out and cleaned and new gaskets put in (by me  ). the small lever on the IP between the IP and the block moves, but the cable that it is attached to does not activate from the inside of the car.  probably rusted out , where could I get one of these.

Also whenever you set the timing, should you disengage the cold start lever?

[libbydiesel]

CS lever MUST be toward the passenger side of the car when setting the timing.

[ORCoaster]

If your cable is rusted tight you could just replace it with a universal stiff cable in a sleeve from any autoparts place I think.  You might need to make some sort of sleeve for where it holds at the IP but zip ties would do that too I believe.  The bugger might be the dash connection.  But perhaps a fender washer, small hole thin but the size of a quarter could cover the hole and you would be back in business.  I have a stiff cable like that on the accel cable as my cruise control.  Seems to work as a high Idle set if I want as well.  Came in real handy when I was hooking up the Veg oil system this weekend.  Set the engine at a good RPM and just hit the solenoid with power a little bit at a time to work out the air on in the filters and lines all the way through the flat plate heater. 

click on, watch some bubbles flow, click off,  solid fuel back on the out bolt, more power to the solenoid.  continue cycle till all clear with power on or off. 

[zolorin]

In process of installing the universal.

reused a two big washers, and removed rubber grommet.  took several tried to get it properly placed inside the dash, tonight will work on getting it shortened and connected to the IP.

yes, it was way way rusty

[R.O.R-2.0]

In process of installing the universal.

reused a two big washers, and removed rubber grommet.  took several tried to get it properly placed inside the dash, tonight will work on getting it shortened and connected to the IP.

yes, it was way way rusty

why didnt you just buy the right cable?

you know that it has to be a push-pull cable right?

so, it needs to be able to PUSH the cold start lever, as well as pull it..

and FWIW, the cold start cable is not that expensive new..

mk1 cables are COMMON.. they fit in mk2 cars as well..

[zolorin]

Problem solved.

IP was out of sync by 180 deg internally, moved it out of sync by another 180 degrees externally and presto.  Now it starts after turning over twice without any help from the cold start level (as it should in a 70 degree day).

Thank you all on this one

[Smokey Eddy]

Wow. Heard of this before. Pretty amazing it ran at all to be honest.