Injectors leaking fuel

[jb86]

Engine is rebuilt 1V with k24 turbo
Giles ip
Everything new
Injectors are rebuilt from parts place inc
I've got just over 300 mis since rebuild
I noticed since first start up that it's definitely a bit loud
Injectors are very clankity
Under fairly hard acceleration I get heavy black smoke
If I drive it light or mild acceleration no smoke I can see
Turbo boost doesn't show anything until I laid on it
Maybe either timing is set too low or injectors are not up to par?
Today I noticed - 3 injectors have moisture around the seam in the injectors
Meaning - there is a 27mm hex where the socket fits over it, just above that is a seam in the injector, that's where I see fuel
Are they junk?
Can anyone tell me where to get good rebuilt ones?
I
Was thinking of asking Giles
Jon

[Luckypabst]

At 300 miles, I'd give them a little more time to seal up on their own.
'A bit loud' might lead me to opening pressure, though I did have a fresh Bosch rebuild nailing out of the box (made one heck of a racket).

That said, I'd be glad to go through your injectors if you can afford the down time.
Chris

[pointynoggin]

I feel your pain.

I did a fresh rebuild and it was loud from the start.  I bought new injectors for german autoparts and when i pulled the old ones one hole was a puddle.  I enjoyed a week of quiet driving now i got a hammering one when not hot.

I pulled one that was wet on the threads and the hole was wet too but i still have noise.

Very frustrating to pay for crap.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

New injectors shouldn't leak at the halfs if rebuilt properly. Often, it's the return lines leaking, drips down leading to the illusion that it's leaking at the halfs. To diagnose if that's the case, clean it till dry. wrap tissue paper tightly around the injector just below the injector return nipples- use rubber band, tie wrap whatever, then start engine. If only the tissue gets wet, it's not the halfs leaking.

[Toby]

Nailing, smoke, and lower than expected power are a sign of too much advance, if the injectors are up to par. If they drool or pop too early the timing is advanced more than with good injectors. Try dialing back the IP timing and see if that cures your problem. I just went through this with a D24 Volvo. The wire for the cold start solenoid on the side had come unhooked, drastically quickening the advance even when the dial indicator said the static advance was spot on. Plugged the wire back on and smoke and nailing disappeared, power went back to normal

[745 turbogreasel]

I dry warm injectors with brakecleen.  Stay clear and ventilated, or your eyes/lungs, etc will burn for awhile.

Toby, that isn't cold advance, that is altitude compensator.  the cold start advance  is tied to the coolant thing on the back pump bracket.
The coolant thing never* works, and when failed upsets your base timing, so must be disabled by pulling and twisting the block screwed to the cable.  Do not move the screw on the cable unless you aren't going to ever fix the system.
*unless by some miracle, you get 1500RPM on a cold start tapering to 700 or so.

[Toby]

This one has a good wax-stat in it. If I would have had a bit more time, I would have swapped it for one of my dead 5GTD units before it went down the road. I have money down on the 5GTD. I am depressed, but I need the money so it has to go. BTW, how does dialing in that much advance work for altitude compensation? I will have to dig out the flow chart that I have somewhere to see exactly where it gets the pressure to alter the advance curve. That could have some intriguing possibilities. I need a Tach-n-Tune.

[745 turbogreasel]

I don't know, I think it comes on somewhere over 4000 feet.  The  Greenbook also has some other tuning procedure if you live above that, but I am so far form anything that big I never worried about it.
Lets see

Injection timing must be advanced 0.07mm/1000m elevation above sea level
IQ decreases 2.3mm3/1000M alt=smoke screw 35*CCW

*wow, there is some good solid info, maybe wrong if you don't have a 10MM pump

I've wondered about alternate uses for the thing too.
It uses a stop solenoid normally on to affect bleed from to the CPR to main body I think.
Seems to be an across the board increase in advance, but not affect max advance.
There is a spring in there and a bunch of tiny selective washers under pressure.

3 cars, 6+ pumps, and not one working wax-stat

[Toby]

I think it increases the rate of advance rather increasing static timing. With it unplugged it idled fine and ran fine at low RPMs but as soon as the revs started to climb it was rattle city and lots of black smoke. The injectors pop tested OK. With the wire on, low speed performance was unchanged and it ran fine at elevated RPMs.

[745 turbogreasel]

I can hear mine at idle, though it is subtle till ~1100+ RPM.
Might vary by wear and control pressure.
It won't do anything without the engine running.