Loud ticking/tapping/knocking from 1.6 IDI 81 jetta

[bajacalal]

Water cooled OHC VW gas and diesel shims are indeed the same. I would say the gas engines are more common but VW hasn't made a solid-lifter gas engine in an awful long time. If you know of any european car shops that have been in business since at least the 1980s they might have an assortment of shims laying around. I would be interested to know if Volvo redblock shims are the same.That would make things easier.

[Krisverde]

I agree.  I have 4 volvo heads sitting around haha. Also if I pull the cam off the diesel. I heard there is no key way?? Is that true.   Pardon the noob questions. I'm new to volkswagens

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[bajacalal]

The cam has a key slot but the pulley doesn't. You don't have to put the pulley in any particular place as long as the cam is indeed at top dead center. I think this was done on purpose to make the pulley adjustable, so you can put the belt back on without having to "bump" the cam a half tooth, like you can sometimes get away with doing on a gasser.

Just put it on dry, don't use the cam slot at the rear of the cam to hold the cam and torque the bolt to at least 33 ft.lbs., I think you can push it closer to 40. To remove the pulley I have used a brass punch with great results. Steel punches tend to cut into the pulley but the brass is softer than steel and delivers a blow to the pulley without hurting it.

You don't need to pull the cam if you have the depressor tool, though if you're going to do other work, like to change seals and the timing belt, it might not be a bad idea,

[R.O.R-2.0]

The cam has a key slot but the pulley doesn't. You don't have to put the pulley in any particular place as long as the cam is indeed at top dead center. I think this was done on purpose to make the pulley adjustable, so you can put the belt back on without having to "bump" the cam a half tooth, like you can sometimes get away with doing on a gasser.

Just put it on dry, don't use the cam slot at the rear of the cam to hold the cam and torque the bolt to at least 33 ft.lbs., I think you can push it closer to 40. To remove the pulley I have used a brass punch with great results. Steel punches tend to cut into the pulley but the brass is softer than steel and delivers a blow to the pulley without hurting it.

You don't need to pull the cam if you have the depressor tool, though if you're going to do other work, like to change seals and the timing belt, it might not be a bad idea,

the LATER pulleys had no keyway..

but the EARLIEST 1.5D cam sprockets, had a keyway.

my 1.5D is timed with a key in the cam and cam sprocket..

those keyways were there for a reason back in the day..

and my timing actually checks out with all the lock plates and pins also..

[Krisverde]

Ok so I opened up the lines 1 at a time to create a misfire. 2,3 and 4 all changed but when I cracked open 1 it still idled the same.

So with that injector ill take it in.

[745 turbogreasel]

there is a seal washer underneath  the injector to fish out with a hook of wire or??
It should be cone side down, but sometimes they get put in wrong and knock.
Don't just bend the delivery line aside, it will crack later.  loosen them all or remove.
'screw covers' little plastic thimbles from ACE make sweet injector debris caps, but tinfoil works.

You could do a comp or leakdown test on that hole,
look in the hole, and cycle the glow plugs, if it lights up in ~10 sec, that is a good sign.

[Krisverde]

Finally got around to working on the Jetta. Pulled out the injector and looked down the hole when I cycled the glow plugs. I did see red down there. Ill work on fishing out the seal washer. Looks like it will be fun to pull out haha.

[745 turbogreasel]

If it wasn't all packed with crap (should not be) it isn't usually too hard after you find a tight enough hook.
be sure not to bang the injector nozzle on anything, if the nipple gets distorted it's ruined.

[Krisverde]

Got all the seal washers out and put caps over the tops of the injectors. Ill take them to a shop on Monday. Oh yea #3 was kind of oily looking.

[smutts]

Old bicycle spoke hooks the washers out fine too.
European ford 1.6 & 1.8 diesel shims also fit.

[Krisverde]

Just wanna double check there are no other washers for the injectors correct? Just the ones in the pre-chamber?

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[745 turbogreasel]

correct.

And remember only wrench toward the head, away it is possible to break the thin threaded part off the injector hole.

[billybobf]

I once had one with the injector hole tig welded back up, its a shame, cuz it is so simple to remember, push on wrench to remove, push on wrench to install.

[Krisverde]

Luckily the injectors came out with ease.  When re-installing them just tighten them up and no anti-sieze right? Also any of you guys heard of monark nozzles? What's a good known replacement nozzles for these cars?

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[745 turbogreasel]

I go 55 with a small dab of anti seize.

Cleaning the washer seats in the head can be a PITA

The new washer has to go in right way up, double check before you crank an injector on top of it.

Autohausaz has  low prices on Bosch I think.

did you have a bunk one?  if not, now is the time to run further tests