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gas engine parts interchange? best mileage mods for idi n/a? trans gearing faq?
by
billybobf
on 30 Mar, 2012 03:45
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Ok, so, there are a lot of great FAQ posts here, but what I would like to see is a gasser interchange as well as maybe a hardware location photo faq?
I have a 1.6 n/a mechanical lifter 12mm engine, I am missing the heater core output, somehow the thrust portion of the intermidiate shaft broke off (like someone installed the pull with a hammer?)
so I need an intermediate shaft, I need that coolant output, and I really need some front end hardware and to know which bolt goes to which peice, like the cranks snout bolt vs the camshaft bolt vs the intermidiate shaft bolt, and what kind of spacers they should run?
water pump housings? what motor mounts are the same? oil pans, dipsticks, connecting rods? oil pump. there are a lot of small items that I think could be sourced from the gas engine (local yard just crushed an old plymouth something that had a carbed engine that LOOKED vw coulda got my parts from him CHEAP)
the other sticky faq would be best economy settings for the idi n/a
timing settings, fuel settings, intake exhuast, eco boost options? although cheaper the better? (if your that worried about mileage that you are searching the faq, cheap options to improve are great)
a custom intake manifold with a tunnel ram? gasser header and open exhuast?
I know that in the toyota family, if you have an 88 toyota 4x4 4cyl, cheapest catback exhuast setup you can buy is a used stock 88 4x4 v6 exhuast as its bigger pipe to allow the flow of the bigger v6.
There is a faq for more power, I want good power, but dont want there to be a thin line between power and economy. I really want to build a freeway runner that gets great economy. In that faq maybe help with what vehicle/whatnot to find the best trans to get economy on the highway? fifth gear and final gear combos?
think Ive made a good start?
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#1
by
rs899
on 30 Mar, 2012 06:43
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I'm with you. I care less about performance and more about economy. The guy on my ass in the SUV might disagree but WGAS.
The Plymouth Horizon/Dodge Omni from around 1978-1981 used the VW 1.7 EN engine. A few of the parts will interchange, but not as many as you would think. The heads are different, but the valves , buckets and shims are the same. The blocks are very similar but completely different - the pistons, rods, cranks are different (though, I think the rods are the same as the 1.5D). You might be able to use the water pump. Three of the 4 motor mounts are the same ( not the one near the IP). The Intermediate shaft is the same, but the gear is on backwards. Rest of the stuff I am not sure about, but I would like to know too as I have a 1.7 I think I will trash shortly.
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#2
by
srgtlord
on 30 Mar, 2012 09:52
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From an MK2 standpoint The gas A/C radiator can be used, waterpumps/ housings are the same but have different pullies, heatercore is the same, hoses are pretty much the same. The mk3s have a few more things in common. The powersteering pump and AC can be used on gas or diesel, Alternators are the same for gas or diesel, and the fancy internals of the serpentine setup are the same but the gas and diesel brackets are different. Oil seals are the same for gas or diesel except the headgasket.
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#3
by
8v-of-fury
on 02 Apr, 2012 21:04
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There is a faq for more power, I want good power, but dont want there to be a thin line between power and economy. I really want to build a freeway runner that gets great economy. In that faq maybe help with what vehicle/whatnot to find the best trans to get economy on the highway? fifth gear and final gear combos?
There is a thin line between Power and Economy but it solely relies on your right foot. You can be making 200whp and still get 50mpg. You can't get 50mpg while making 200whp, but the ability for either at the push of the pedal
.
If you want a freeway cruiser, I would suggest you get a FF FN or 7A transmission. They are the tallest geared, and will give you the lowest rpms. Increasing your overall tire height will also help. More cruising boost, by the way of a smaller turbo will actually help with economy as well.. as boost is efficient, to a degree obviously.
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#4
by
billybobf
on 02 Apr, 2012 22:05
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I was actually looking at the INTERNAL engine components, I would figure a lot of the cars external parts would work. Ive heard that the intermediate shaft can be swapped by putting the diesel gear on it. I need some front end hardware (I guess Im supposed to upgrade the crankshaft bolt?)
Right now I bought a running driving 89 golf gl for 250 bucks, what trans should that have in it? Im not sure how much Im going to rush the swap as I believe that the engine thats in there should get 35mpg plus, but would rather be getting 50mpg. Also, on the diesel mechanical N/A block, can I run a small turbo as long as Im not running the ldl IP? or would I need to get a pyro (not that it would be a bad thing to have, the reason for building the eco is to SAVE MONEY)
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#5
by
8v-of-fury
on 02 Apr, 2012 22:08
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Also, on the diesel mechanical N/A block, can I run a small turbo as long as Im not running the ldl IP? or would I need to get a pyro (not that it would be a bad thing to have, the reason for building the eco is to SAVE MONEY)
The 1.6 N/A and 1.6 TD (LDA) pumps are capable of flowing the same amounts of fuel. So if you crank either up a EGT (pyro) will be a must.. Actually probably even more so needed on the non turbo pump, as it will fuel like a mother when you are off boost.
Not many internal pieces interchange between gas and diesel.
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#6
by
rs899
on 03 Apr, 2012 08:54
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Your 89 Golf might have a gearbox with a crappy ratio. I know my 91 Jetta did originally but I swapped in an ACH. You may find difficulty finding a Mk2 gearbox that works well. The Mk 2 has different mounting than the Mk 1 so some of the gearboxes are Mk1 only, Mk 2 only and some interchange.
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#7
by
billybobf
on 03 Apr, 2012 11:28
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ok, so ff fn or 7a, do any of those work on the mk2? if I need to I will weld up new mounts.. and come up with new shift linkage if I need to. what sucks is, I think my 78 that had a 1.6 installed in it. it originally had a tight ratio 4spd(78 orig I guess) the speedo had the big orange line at 55mph. that thing sounded PISSED when I was doing 75mph down the freeway. put I believe an 020 ff in it, still didnt get better then 44mpg. but man oh man that thing would put up some black smog when I floored it. so maybe between the .85 timing and the over fueling I could have helped the mileage as well as I think I was running a 185 65 13 or something close to stock height with added width (sure made it ride and hug corners nice)
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Apr, 2012 13:36
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There is a faq for more power, I want good power, but dont want there to be a thin line between power and economy. I really want to build a freeway runner that gets great economy. In that faq maybe help with what vehicle/whatnot to find the best trans to get economy on the highway? fifth gear and final gear combos?
There is a thin line between Power and Economy but it solely relies on your right foot. You can be making 200whp and still get 50mpg. You can't get 50mpg while making 200whp, but the ability for either at the push of the pedal .
If you want a freeway cruiser, I would suggest you get a FF FN or 7A transmission. They are the tallest geared, and will give you the lowest rpms. Increasing your overall tire height will also help. More cruising boost, by the way of a smaller turbo will actually help with economy as well.. as boost is efficient, to a degree obviously.
wrong.. the ACN, AON, ACL, ASF, ATH, DFP, and CHD are the HIGHEST geared 020 trannies.. because of the 3.67 final drive.
the FF/FN were mk1 trannies.. and they were decently tall geared, but the mk2 boxes were TALLER geared, being that they went to a 3.67 final drive, rather than a 3.94..
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#9
by
JerryGTD
on 03 Apr, 2012 15:43
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There is a faq for more power, I want good power, but dont want there to be a thin line between power and economy. I really want to build a freeway runner that gets great economy. In that faq maybe help with what vehicle/whatnot to find the best trans to get economy on the highway? fifth gear and final gear combos?
There is a thin line between Power and Economy but it solely relies on your right foot. You can be making 200whp and still get 50mpg. You can't get 50mpg while making 200whp, but the ability for either at the push of the pedal .
If you want a freeway cruiser, I would suggest you get a FF FN or 7A transmission. They are the tallest geared, and will give you the lowest rpms. Increasing your overall tire height will also help. More cruising boost, by the way of a smaller turbo will actually help with economy as well.. as boost is efficient, to a degree obviously.
wrong.. the ACN, AON, ACL, ASF, ATH, DFP, and CHD are the HIGHEST geared 020 trannies.. because of the 3.67 final drive.
the FF/FN were mk1 trannies.. and they were decently tall geared, but the mk2 boxes were TALLER geared, being that they went to a 3.67 final drive, rather than a 3.94..
Some of the MK1 transmissions came with a 3.89 final drive and a .71 5th gear. The math would be 3.89 x .71 = 2.7619.
The highest geared MK2 transmission came with a 3.67 final drive and a .75 5th gear. The math would be 3.67 x .75 = 2.7525.
So ROR is correct. The M2 transmissions are better by 0.0094. (2.7619 - 2.7525 = 0.0094)
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#10
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 03 Apr, 2012 16:06
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the difference is like 40 RPMs @ 70mph...
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#11
by
billybobf
on 03 Apr, 2012 21:28
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so can you put the FF fifth gear into the taller geared mk2 tranny? I when I get my car I will see what codes it has on its tranny. My plan might end up being a low amp draw system. possibly either not running an alternator, or running a really low amperage alt. running LED lights in as many spots as possible including maybe in the headlights for rainy weather headlights. then super tall gearing, Id rather run smaller tires with low rotating mass, and hopefully a size and pattern that is low friction.
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#12
by
theman53
on 03 Apr, 2012 21:37
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yes you can put the .71 into the MK2. You can also put the 3.67 into the mk1 trans, but more work required. FWIW, the Mk1 trans had no issues with the ring gear rivots, so IMHO the MK1 trans is better for that, but if you swap the R&P then the issue is still there. If you do the .71 and 3.67 gear deal, you will need enough power for it to make sense. If you put that in an N/A and have any kind of hills at all, then all you will do is shift. The non a/c alt is barely anything... I think 60amp?