Anyone use a MK1 Rabbit Diesel filter on a TDI?

[GTiTDi]

I was looking at a soon to be junked 1980 Rabbit Diesel L yesterday. I noticed the fuel filter is a screw on type from the factory. I am sure some high quality filter must be available for this filter head. The size must be similar to something else currently on the market. I thought it would be a cool addition to a later diesel/TDI VW, It would eliminate the need to disconnect fuel hoses when changing the filter, which IMO would extend the life of the hoses.

[bajacalal]

It is indeed a common size, it's the same size thread as Cummins used on the B engines, at least for engines equipped with spin-on filters.

[GTiTDi]

and are there high filtration filters available? I am sure if they are the same size as a B series cummins there are options out there..maybe even a slightly longer/larger filter that would fit the rabbit filter head....

[theman53]

I had some NAPA filters that would filter down to 5 micron that would spin on the old style filter bracket. I don't know if they had them bigger or not. Plus they didn't have the built in water separator like the rabbit stock ones did.

[CrazyAndy]

It is indeed a common size, it's the same size thread as Cummins used on the B engines, at least for engines equipped with spin-on filters.

Think it would be worth it to us older IDI guys to pick up the bigger Cummins filters?  Just asking because, hey, more filtration is better.

[8v-of-fury]

It is indeed a common size, it's the same size thread as Cummins used on the B engines, at least for engines equipped with spin-on filters.

Think it would be worth it to us older IDI guys to pick up the bigger Cummins filters?  Just asking because, hey, more filtration is better.

Bigger only means it can filter more before you have to change it, not necessarily more filtering. The lower micron count is the filters filtering capability. So a larger filter with a 5 or less micron element will be the bees knees.

[R.O.R-2.0]

It is indeed a common size, it's the same size thread as Cummins used on the B engines, at least for engines equipped with spin-on filters.

Think it would be worth it to us older IDI guys to pick up the bigger Cummins filters?  Just asking because, hey, more filtration is better.

Bigger only means it can filter more before you have to change it, not necessarily more filtering. The lower micron count is the filters filtering capability. So a larger filter with a 5 or less micron element will be the bees knees.

this is the bees knees:



stock rabbit 15 micron filter, with a 2 micron Racor filter ahead of it..

[CrazyAndy]

Dang, ain't that what the VWO guys run?  Would make the pump last a long time; how's it affect drivability as compared to regular spin-ons?

And I guess I should have thought about my Cummins filter question, meant to ask comparative filter longevity.  I'll look up a pic of the Cummins filter.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Dang, ain't that what the VWO guys run?  Would make the pump last a long time; how's it affect drivability as compared to regular spin-ons?

And I guess I should have thought about my Cummins filter question, meant to ask comparative filter longevity.  I'll look up a pic of the Cummins filter.

WVO guys prolly run a much larger filter than that.. my filter is the smallest element you can get for that particular racor base..

next time around, ill be installing the next size larger cartridge, no question..

and it didnt affect drivability at all, because i run a lift pump, so the filters dont act as a restriction, since they are pressure fed..

the only benefit you are going to get from a cummins filter, is (very) extended change intervals. i imagine they filter down to about the same particle size.

one thing i will also add, is that racor, and a few other filter manufacturers make water-blocker filters, that ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT let water get thru them. so it never ends up in your pump either..

but yes, better filtration will DEFINITELY prolong the life of your pump, and especially your injectors.. and being that my pump and injectors was rebuilt very recently, i want to keep them alive for as long as i can, and that 2 micron Racor will sure help with that!

if i had more dollars then sense, i would run TWO rabbit filters in parallel, and then one bigger Racor ahead of them. then you could catch LOTS of junk in the rabbit filters, as well as all the water that would find its way in the system..

the rabbit filter catches most of the particulate matter, and the racor catches the particles between 2-15 micron.. the rabbit filter needs changed more than the racor thank god, because racor elements are like 40 bucks..

[CrazyAndy]

It is indeed a common size, it's the same size thread as Cummins used on the B engines, at least for engines equipped with spin-on filters.

Think it would be worth it to us older IDI guys to pick up the bigger Cummins filters?  Just asking because, hey, more filtration is better.

Bigger only means it can filter more before you have to change it, not necessarily more filtering. The lower micron count is the filters filtering capability. So a larger filter with a 5 or less micron element will be the bees knees.

this is the bees knees:



stock rabbit 15 micron filter, with a 2 micron Racor filter ahead of it..

Did a bit of reading on the Parker site (Racor's parent company).  Is that the 200 Series filter head w/ the R125 filter element (2 micron of course)?  That's definitely worht investing in when I get my AAZ rebuilt!

[R.O.R-2.0]

200 series base with an R-12S element.

cant remember the number of the next larger capacity 2 micron element, but i would not run the R12S, i think the R15S is the same basic 2 micron element, but 50% larger..

[ToddA1]

Off topic, but what's that solderless connection plugged into, on the intake?

-Todd

[R.O.R-2.0]

Off topic, but what's that solderless connection plugged into, on the intake?

-Todd

fan after run module..

if the engine room heats up too hot after you shut the engine off, the rad fan cycles on to cool everything back down..

i really didnt think that connection needed solder, being that it didnt have solder from the factory, and that its not even an important function, and being that its just an on/off signal, and not some resistance signal, that an un-soldered connection could have changed.. so i just crimped a female spade on it and bolted the heat sensor to the intake manifold. that was the closest to the stock location i could get..

gotta remember, this car was natively gasoline powered, so it still has most of the gas wiring in it, besides the actual engine harness..

the heat sensor is usually bolted to the ground location on the rear rail of the valve cover..

[billybobf]

thats cool, so if it catches on fire it will force feed oxygen in there to make it burn quicker? lol, just kidding I have that on my gasser, had no clue what it was, My fan sucks anyways, I had to put a new fan switch in, I picked up a chinese made mahl to put in it. no clue if that switch works, lol, make I will heat it up and see if my fan comes on.

[R.O.R-2.0]

thats cool, so if it catches on fire it will force feed oxygen in there to make it burn quicker? lol, just kidding I have that on my gasser, had no clue what it was, My fan sucks anyways, I had to put a new fan switch in, I picked up a chinese made mahl to put in it. no clue if that switch works, lol, make I will heat it up and see if my fan comes on.

pull the wire off the sensor, and ground it. if the fan comes on, it works.

if the fan dont come on, then uh...