shifter bushing question

[bbob203]

i've never replaced any of the shift rod bushings before just the linkage and rod. my question is if i just wanted to replace the bushing in the steering box could i do that without having to drop the exhaust? can i remove the heat shield without the exhaust being dropped?

[theman53]

I don't know if I understand your question. If you are talking the shifter ball, you might be able to if you have stock exhaust. I had 3" exhaust and had to drop the exhaust completely to get it. If you have the toilet bowl it may have enough play or you may have to take the C clamps loose on the toilet bowl. That should be it, whereas I had to take the exhaust completely out.

[bbob203]

not the ball just the bushing that the shift rod goes thru its 1 of 2 of the same kind of bushing.

[rallydiesel]

With my mk2, I had to drop the exhaust to do the interior shifter bushings.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Bbob i don't think we're all on the same page yet.

Are you talking about the orange bushing - that the main shifter transfer shaft goes through - located at lower firewall area and mounted by a bracket to the steering rack ?

If that is the one you mean - it can be done without touching the exhaust or the shields. But it has a couple tricks that need to be performed before anything is dismanteld. Or else your shifter will be all out of whack when you get it back together.

[bbob203]

baron you got it that's the one. what are the tricks?

[Baron VonZeppelin]

On the long rod that runs under the tunnel , from interior shifter to firewall -

At the firewall end, it is splined.
There is a collar clamped onto the end by one pinch bolt.
The collar is also splined.
If that collar/rod orientation is not put back exact - your shifter becomes a quick nightmare.

Clean the collar real well with your favorite degreaser and an old paint brush, and the section of rod ahead of the orange bushing mount.

Dry it off/ let it dry.
Then paint a good solid stripe on the backside of the collar and rod where they join (the end closer to the orange bushing - not the engine side of collar).

Let paint dry - then scribe/scratch a line through the paint across collar and rod. Now you have a real visible reference mark to re-align these parts when it goes back together.

If you still have super good up-close vision, you might can get by with just scrawling/scribing a reference line without using paint. Judgement call. But be certain you have an easily visible exact reference that keeps things from getting complicated. The splines are fine.
If you leave room for error - you'll likely have error.

After the collar is removed - you remove the bolts that mount the orange bushing holder to the steering rack - and it slides off the rod towards the engine.

Have heard of some folks getting the old orange bushing out - and the new one installed without removing the rivets from the bushing cup. I've always drilled them out and put new rivets in. Can also use bolts instead of rivets - but use loctite or locknuts on the bolts.

Might as well get the bushing kit and do them all.
You'll have over half the stuff apart anyway.

[bbob203]

hmm good stuff to keep in mind. I have messed with that collar before on the car I just installed the missing linkz on my other car the bushings on that one were replaced by the p/o. I used the shifter locking plate special tool. I did move the position of that whole assembly in order to adjust my shifting to make it more precise. but without having adjustment in the relay shafts(and the lockout plate for the shifter) I can see how that could screw up the whole works.