rings and a head gasket

[wdkingery]

Anyone got links to these parts? Fixin to replace them soon

[ORCoaster]

Check your PMs

[bbob203]

I second this post. want to do this with engine still in the car wonder what else I should do along with this.

[wdkingery]

I second this post. want to do this with engine still in the car wonder what else I should do along with this.

Yeah its gonna be rings head bolts and the gasket. I've found partsplace. Com has the rings for $40,gasket for $34 and ill probably reuse the bolts. Gotta check I didn't bend a connecting rod

[theman53]

http://www.autohausaz.com/index.html

If you have stretch bolts I wouldn't reuse, they are meant for 1 time use only.

[bbob203]

ill probably go with head studs everybody talks about. my question is when doing it how do you get the crank out with the engine in the car or does that not matter? pistons out thru the top? also can i take the head off with everything still attached manifolds and cam(locked out)? is my 91 gonna have the 11 or 12mm block?

[bajacalal]

Yes, you can take the head off as a complete assembly, I just pulled mine with turbo on too, but I regretted that because I then decided to swap the turbo and there is really no good way to set the head down on your workbench with the turbo in the way. Honestly, pulling all the hoses and crap attached to the motor is the hardest part. You don't have to lock out the cam either (but it should be at TDC) and you should make sure it's back at TDC with the lock and check timing when you are done.

Here's what I would replace, if you don't know the history of your car.

Head gasket, head bolts/studs, rubber valve cover gasket (should come with its studs), intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, hoses, glow plugs, fuel lines (rubber), cam seal, pull the injectors and have them tested, injector heat shields and you might want to consider valve stem seals if you're getting oil consumption as a reason for doing the rings. It would also be a good time to do the timing belt/tensioner. Get a new oil pan gasket and if you get the valve cover gasket set, it should come with extra studs and put those in of bolts for the 2 hard to reach ones by the transmission.

Get some surface prep discs (you put these on the end of a drill) to clean the mating surfaces, from the auto parts store or hardware store, get green (fine) pads for the aluminum parts and brown (coarse) pads for the iron parts.

All this should set you back about $500 but you should have a reliable car for a long time when you're done.

If that's the year of your motor, you will have a 12 mm block.

[bbob203]

thanks for the input. any threads you could point me to with some more in depth knowledge on how to do the head job. I have experience under the hood of a car with fixing about everything except anything pertaining to the engine block so thats where i need the help removal and installation of the pistons and the head. the tbelt and tensioner are both less than 3-4k miles old. the biggest reason i want to do the head gasket is i think its leaking coolant on the front of the block. i drive this car a lot and far distances regularly so i want it to be in top working order as well as getting its best possible mileage. the car has 190k on it and im assuming same on motor its pretty dirty but the car is rust free so its worth spending the time and money on it.

[wdkingery]

How do you know if head bolts are 1 time use?

[pointynoggin]

it is so easy to pull the engine I'd suggest that would be the way.  I've done it both ways, with the engine in it sucked, engine on a stand was fun.

At least remove the front clips and rad.

[bbob203]

I was thinking about it today might just come up with an engine stand and pull the motor whenever I do it. that was the biggest reason I didn't want to pull it as I have no stand.

[745 turbogreasel]

A VW motor isn't hard to lift to a bench, the stand is nice for truck motors though.

I think it's easier to pull the motor w/trans, but Ive done it so many times...
just don't for get to undo the speedo cable.
Also, mark all the bearing caps so you know they go back in the same spot.

[R.O.R-2.0]

How do you know if head bolts are 1 time use?

if they are triple square, they are TTY bolts..

if they are 10mm hex head, then they are re-useable

but only the ancient 1.5Ds came factory with the re-useable head bolts..

so im going to say that you need to spend the $10 for new bolts..

they are soo cheap that its not worth the risk trying to re-use the bolts, unless you are Mark or I... 

[rs899]

The early 1.6s also had reusable bolts.

However, the late 1.6 such as in your 91 also had stretch rod bolts.  I doubt many people replace those as they are expensive.  The earlier pistons used non-stretch type ( and I had some of those) so I used those.  You also should carefully inspect your intermediate shaft bearing.  You can get to the outer one without too much trouble.

I did mine in the car a couple of years ago.  It's a tossup...  I have 25k miles on the re-ring and it uses little oil- perhaps a quart every 6k miles.

[R.O.R-2.0]

The early 1.6s also had reusable bolts.

However, the late 1.6 such as in your 91 also had stretch rod bolts.  I doubt many people replace those as they are expensive.  The earlier pistons used non-stretch type ( and I had some of those) so I used those.  You also should carefully inspect your intermediate shaft bearing.  You can get to the outer one without too much trouble.

I did mine in the car a couple of years ago.  It's a tossup...  I have 25k miles on the re-ring and it uses little oil- perhaps a quart every 6k miles.

and what was that? like 1 year only? didnt the 1.6 get stretch bolts in 82?