AAZ engine/drivetrain build for '81 Rabbit

[CrazyAndy]

Hey everyone.

Finally after all of this waiting. I finally got my engine back from the machinists!  Since my usual MK1 enthusiast thread is going wonky, I figured I'd take the opportunity to start a more concrete build thread on here. 

Here's some shots of the engine back from the shop.







As you can see there is still a little surface rust on the outside.  The block was hot-tanked FIVE times and still couldn't get all the Canadian rust out of it.  No worries, nothing some Rustoleum engine block paint won't fix; after all it's what inside that counts.  The bearing races are all clean and round, the bores are properly over-sized and well-hatched, the deck is machined perfectly flat.

At least it's better than when I got it. 


Of course, the block wasn't the only thing freshened up.  Here is the crank as well.




Static balanced within 0.64 Gram, journals polished, and crank nose machines to accept a TDI crank sprocket.

Pistons and rods are back as well.  Nothing special on them, just needed for proper bore machining measurement.





Also while I was out in Waynesboro, a notable machine shop VW parts town, I went down to a local VW parts hoarder and car builder I know and picked up some good used goodies; gasser MK1 motor mounts for the front and passenger side, good oil pan, and a seat belt 3rd point trim cover.


Also picked up some fender flares.  Backs fit Mk1 definitely, didn't completely check the fronts, but they fit funny.  Some time with a brillo pad, soapy water, TSP, and some plastic paint and they should be decent enough to throw on.


Finally when I came home from Maryland (where I picked up Trev0rbr's K24 and manifold) on Friday, I swung by my parents house where a special package had arrive with another manifold!



Finally all the big parts are starting to come together for me.  All I need now is to get a head, pick up CRSMP5's trans at the end of this month, and when all that's here start to GO TO TOWN!!

I'll admit that this is just an initial post; true reassembly starts around the beginning of April when I have 100% of the parts needed to have the long-block and trans assembled together.  I'll be done driving a taxi as my night job to afford this build in the first place, so I'll have a LOT more free time.  The big parts from here on forward besides remainder of parts procurement will be centered around getting a good 2.5 MK1 DP, routing the Intercooler piping, wiring the AAZ alt correctly (and getting the clutched pulley!), and fiddling with the 02A trans to get it all linked and cabled up to run in a Mk1 w/out fabbing or having to run cable shift (there's parts out there for this, gotta get those too . . .).

Oh, and obviously swapping the old drivetrain out and the new in. 

First engine build, first drivetrain swap, first car I've ever owned modded.  I can't wait.

Later everyone!
CrazyAndy, out!

[theman53]

I love it. The only thing to watch on the ARCO pistons is the rings. It is a crap shoot at best. Many have had bad results, I didn't take the chance and bought Goetze rings. I didn't have to add 1 quart of oil in 40,000 miles. I have heard of some on this site using oil after 10,000 to 15,000 miles. When it is apart it is cheap peace of mind to do the rings.

Other than that good job and good luck on getting it going

[410]

I love it. The only thing to watch on the ARCO pistons is the rings. It is a crap shoot at best. Many have had bad results, I didn't take the chance and bought Goetze rings. I didn't have to add 1 quart of oil in 40,000 miles. I have heard of some on this site using oil after 10,000 to 15,000 miles. When it is apart it is cheap peace of mind to do the rings.

Other than that good job and good luck on getting it going

I ran Arco pistons for almost 40,000km and the oil consumption never decreased.  The bottom end blew up so I was able to have a close look at everything.  The cylinders still had a nice cross hatch and the pistons looked like new but I agree with Lucas, buy yourself some good rings.  Otherwise you might regret it.  Look at it this way, the money you save on oil will pay for the rings.

Oh and the block looks awesome!  Those bores are sweet!

[CrazyAndy]

I love it. The only thing to watch on the ARCO pistons is the rings. It is a crap shoot at best. Many have had bad results, I didn't take the chance and bought Goetze rings. I didn't have to add 1 quart of oil in 40,000 miles. I have heard of some on this site using oil after 10,000 to 15,000 miles. When it is apart it is cheap peace of mind to do the rings.

Other than that good job and good luck on getting it going

I ran Arco pistons for almost 40,000km and the oil consumption never decreased.  The bottom end blew up so I was able to have a close look at everything.  The cylinders still had a nice cross hatch and the pistons looked like new but I agree with Lucas, buy yourself some good rings.  Otherwise you might regret it.  Look at it this way, the money you save on oil will pay for the rings.

Oh and the block looks awesome!  Those bores are sweet!

Yeah I know, those bores are solid gold, right?   

But yes I know about the beercan-metal piston rings; also heard a certain bad-reputation VW diesel parts seller offers them.  You all know who I'm talking about.  But yeah I already know about replacing the rings; hell, they're already in the trash.  The pistons are now awaiting Total Seal 2nd-gapless ring sets.  Forget oil consumption issues at 175,00 miles, why not NEVER? 

[Zaro]

Looks really good!

What intake manifold is that, what is it off of?

[CrazyAndy]

Intake manifold is known as the PD130 manifold, PD meaning from european Pumpe-Duse engine, 130 meaning a snippet of the part number indicating the intake's inlet opening faces the driver side when in the vehicle.  The pipe on it is a custom made pipe for deleting the anti-shudder valve and EGR port.  These manifolds are highly sought after in the states for the fact that their intake ports are less restricted and are more equal-length, and the intake's plenum and inlet are a larger area/diameter than the stock 1.6-1.9 TD intake manifolds.  Great for turbocharged cars since the intake is non-restrictive as compared to stock TD maifolds, allowing better throttle response and supporting higher boost levels.  I had to get this intake manifold off a Bulgarian person on the Vortex. It took 4.5 weeks to arrive due to international shipping customs constraints and Europe opening a new mail distribution center in Belgium.  But still worth the wait! 

[dl_sledding]

So the PD130 dude in Belgium was the real deal?  I was suspicious about that.  Glad to hear that it was on the up-and-up.

Good luck with the 1.9 swap.  Considering the same thing for my '84...

[CrazyAndy]

Thanks; I was a bit suspicious at first of that FS thread as well but as soon as other people, too many to call as shell profiles, started chiming in and I even think showing pics of receivership, I wasn't as worried.  I'm glat it worked out as well.  Seems like 10% of 'tex FS threads are sketchy nowadays, but it's still one of the relatively few spots to pick up really good chance deals.

I'll be trying to document as much as I can for this build, hopefully enough to help other out with their swaps as well.. if you wan't an answer or something especially covered by photograph or text walkthrough let me know so I can do it when I;m working on that system.  I'm a helper at heart. 

[Alcaid]

Intake manifold is known as the PD130 manifold, PD meaning from european Pumpe-Duse engine, 130 meaning a snippet of the part number indicating the intake's inlet opening faces the driver side when in the vehicle.

PD130 means the intake is from a 1.9TDI 130hp engine, has nothing to do with the part number or direction. The PD130 intakes facing towards the driver side comes from longitudinally mounted engines, the transverse mounted PD130/PD150 engines has the intake pointing towards the passenger side.