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#75
by
JBG3
on 11 Oct, 2012 17:21
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so the repair to the windshield mount area is all done, couple pics-
turned out nice, hole welded up, all primed and painted. Hopefully Ill get the replacement windshield in by tomorrow afternoon, and be able to use this car tomorrow night for a trip.
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#76
by
theman53
on 11 Oct, 2012 21:34
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Nice to not let one die, good deal
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#77
by
JBG3
on 12 Oct, 2012 16:48
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Nice to not let one die, good deal
I figure it will last forever if I put in some work in the first couple years of ownership. I love the simplicity of how these things are designed, and this one should hopefully be in decent shape once im done doing my minor rolling restoration
Windshield installed!
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#78
by
JBG3
on 29 Oct, 2012 17:15
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redid the front suspension with new strut bearings, springs, and shocks.
its amazing how worn the strut bearings were, they were rattling like crazy, here are some comparison pics with a new one-
also new door strikers, big difference in rattling there too
next there has been a consistent wobble with the clutch pedal for the last 6 months, including one situation where the clip fell off the pin, and the pedal popped up past the neutral safety switch about 6 inches, so I knocked out the pivot pin and discovered how worn out both the pin and bushing were-
Here is how the pedal sits on the pin, you can see here how when installed, it kind of swings about 3 inches back and forth-
im going to weld a bead on the pin, file it down, and make some brass bushings.
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#79
by
CrazyAndy
on 30 Oct, 2012 10:20
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Good catchon the rattling doors and front suspension. Did those on my MK1 and made a world of difference in rough highway and city driving!
What's your equipment for making the brass bushings?
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#80
by
JBG3
on 31 Oct, 2012 10:23
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Good catchon the rattling doors and front suspension. Did those on my MK1 and made a world of difference in rough highway and city driving!
What's your equipment for making the brass bushings?
I gave it to a local machine shop ive used forever and the guy is pretty cool. Hes thinking of turning down some valve stem seals, pressing them in from both sides, and boring out the center to match the pin. Added benefit is that I can then pack the space in between with axle grease, and not have this problem ever again.
Cant wait to drive on my new suspension though, im starting to regret having given the guy the clutch pedal, car is immobile until hes done with it.
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#81
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 02 Nov, 2012 11:04
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LMK if you need the clutch pedal from the 91 eco before it gets hauled off to the JY next week.
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#82
by
JBG3
on 06 Nov, 2012 18:11
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FINALLY got my carpet in. couple pics. Word of advice for anyone who might do this, don't wait 5 months before installing the carpet. I completely forgot how all the trim and other stuff went in, and it took much longer than if I had just done it immediately.
Here is how I have been driving for nearly 10k post rust repair-
cleaned up the floor really well, and put down an initial coat of POR-15, followed but bed liner out of a can-
Installed sound deadening material, this stuff is made by "B-quiet". Its pretty thin, but seems effective, no complaints on the quality of the product, and one roll easily covers the main area of a mk2
Next I lay my old horrendous carpet over the new one from stock interiors, and marked position of the holes-
One helpful piece of advice I got off the forums was not to trim the sides until its in, its more difficult to cut in position, but you are way less likely to remove too much material on the sides. I would suggest NOT marking as I did here with a marker, many of the lines while making sense on the floor, completely changed location in the car. If you do, do it with something you can brush away, or do just the center for the stick and parking brake-
here it is installed-
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#83
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Nov, 2012 22:54
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Looking VERY NICE!
I am always super excited to see relatively new faces digging in deep!
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#84
by
theman53
on 07 Nov, 2012 08:05
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Take a can of brake clean and your marker is gone with no harmful effects. Trust me. Try it on the seat rail areas where it won't show if you don't believe me.
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#85
by
JBG3
on 07 Nov, 2012 13:00
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Looking VERY NICE!
I am always super excited to see relatively new faces digging in deep!
Thanks! gotta get it done, I have other projects waiting!
BTW, thanks for moving this to the correct forum
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#86
by
JBG3
on 07 Nov, 2012 13:01
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Take a can of brake clean and your marker is gone with no harmful effects. Trust me. Try it on the seat rail areas where it won't show if you don't believe me.
Ill definitely try it, thanks for the tip!
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#87
by
theman53
on 07 Nov, 2012 13:42
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Obviously you want to use a rag to wipe it before the brake clean dries. You don't have to do much it is just quicker and uses less brake clean if you do use the rag.
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#88
by
JBG3
on 13 Nov, 2012 17:28
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so a couple new little issues.
Ive gone through and reinstalled the climate control, dash, and the rest of the interior. Im having some trouble getting my blower motor to work, and thusly, heat.
Direct tested, its definitely functional, but my question is how the resister on the A/C equipped climate control housing works in relation to the blower. Can I just direct wire it to a multi-position switch?
I removed the climate control, removed all the A/C components, cleaned it all out, cleaned up the heater core, re-covered the redirect doors inside, and put it back in. The blower switch has power, but im thinking it might be bad. does anyone know what ohms of resistance each position of the blower switch should be registering?
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#89
by
8v-of-fury
on 13 Nov, 2012 22:56
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The switch itself does not denote the blower speed. It sends its 12v signal to a resistor on the blower motor itself, where it then depending on which part of the resistor is powered denotes blower speed.
It pulls close to 20a iirc so if you were to direct wire it, heavy guage wire or a relay setup are definitely in order.