if its only 1/8 or 3/16 off u can probably grind a little from the compressor housing and a little from the intake and everything will be happy go lucky, if not andrew number 1 has supplied you with a great solution.
s bob needs to just have custom one like theman's made up.. overall probally best as performance gets a boost too.. just needs to be shorter as bunny hood closer then mk2 and well themans rubbing holes in the hood pad..
If you can get the necessary clearance with 3/8", then they also sell them 3/8" thick in both mild steel and stainless. The 3/8" mild steel one is only $30.
Finally got some MK1 02A Transmission Mount brackets to replace the ones that were lost in the mail. They are admittedly not as high-quality appearing as the last set, but they are more functional, since the driver side trans mount bracket has the clutch cable bracket built in to it. Also, they were vastly less expensive than buying from domestic-produced competitors, even after adding shipping from Germany! They will get a coat of paint, a new rubber mount in the drivers mount bracket, and the trans will be ready to go in, once the 5th swap is completed.
The exhaust manifold flange/spacer finally came in the mail! So I mounted it up, and found that the turbo now clears the intake manifold; hell yes! Only now, the new exhaust studs that I thought would reach, don't. D'oh. Looks like I'll be needing a new set. And just when the new turbo bolts come in, I find the old ones. i'm on a roll for hardware this week. I didn't let all that stop me from making progress; loose mounted the manifold and turbo so that I could get the turbo oil drain line fabricated.
In other progress news, I started to get more things put on the engine. Got the engine oil gauge sender, oil 'idiot light' sensor, one of the two coolant temperature sensors, and the block heater mounted. Also got the fuel system mounted up with the rest of the hardware I received; injection pump mount and pump itself are now on the motor. I had to clearance the Mk2 timing belt cover backing plate for the big AAZ pump hub, though. Got the lines on hand-tight. Just need to remember to bring a wrench from work tomorrow and they'll be on for good also. Add hooking the injector return line up to the pump main return nipple, and you have 80% of the on-engine fuel system work done!
It's all down to bolts, belts, hardware, gaskets, timing and tests now, folks!
What is this engine for again??
What is this engine for again??
My '81 Rabbit. It's been waiting for this engine for 3 years. Check the Driiive forum bar.
Nice nice.
You're going to tighten down the lines prior to setting the pump timing??
CrazyAndy, how are you dealing with the passenger side engine mount?
I guess I missed it somewhere on the past 16 pages, but how are you going to setup the shifter for the 02A again?
I keep making notes for my own little project
Looking real sweet Mr.
This would be a great time to add four wires and four fuses to the glow plugs
Nice nice.
You're going to tighten down the lines prior to setting the pump timing??
AAZs don't need their pump body turned to set timing; the TB cog is set up for adjustment. The pic doesn't show it, but the holes for the cog bolt are oval.
CrazyAndy, how are you dealing with the passenger side engine mount?
MK1 gasser mount; already primed and loaded.
I guess I missed it somewhere on the past 16 pages, but how are you going to setup the shifter for the 02A again?
I keep making notes for my own little project
http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi69/pi38/pd648.html
AAZs don't need their pump body turned to set timing; the TB cog is set up for adjustment. The pic doesn't show it, but the holes for the cog bolt are oval.
Not all AAZs are like this, but yours definitely is. That's a very interesting block heater.
