Author Topic: Fitting a Fuel advance cable?  (Read 2689 times)

January 12, 2012, 02:35:49 pm

Bugsy_malone 666

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Fitting a Fuel advance cable?
« on: January 12, 2012, 02:35:49 pm »
Ok on my 1.6TD in the 2 years I have had it I have never had the fuel advance cable connected up. The engine is fitted to a Baywindow Camper van and as such the engine was sourced on ebay from an old mk2 golf cl, when the guys took the engine out of the car they cut the fuel advance 'choke' cable about a foot from its bracket and cut the engine wiring loom near to the starter (which was useful when I put it in the van as I just soldered a multi connector onto the cut loom and one on my van and job done!).

After 2.5 years of having this engine in I am now finally getting a waste veg oil setup built to install and as part of my works I want to make my camper a more 'daily' vehicle as despite having a 2009 golf with british fuel prices and the potential to run on free veg oil the van might become my daily. As part of that daily I want to make it start better.

I think I need to change the heat plugs again as after 2 years they are taking longer to warm up (I had all 4 of them go 6 months after the engine went in as it was a bit of an unknown quantity) but I think it would help to have the cold start fuel advance cable installed as well.

So I am trying to come up with options as to what I could fit, I was thinking I need to get something along the lines of the fire extinguisher engine bay cable/pull stop cables as they come in lengths up to 4 meters long. Originally I had intended to use one of the cables already in the van that used to work the heating system as I put a new one in but that would have needed alsorts of cable joiners and bits put in to to link the vans cable to the foot long bit thats still on the engine.

What did strike me is that I dont know how that cable is held in place on the fuel pump? I know it has like a cable barrel on a little lever arm, but what holds the outer sleeve in place in the bracket? is it just push fit? if it is it could mean cable size is fairly critical.

Cheers :)

Reply #1January 12, 2012, 02:39:47 pm

R.O.R-2.0

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Re: Fitting a Fuel advance cable?
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2012, 02:39:47 pm »
it has a barrel that has a washer on one side, and a clip with a washer on the other side.. the rubber gromet just locates it, it doesnt actually do the holding..

maybe you should use a vanagon cold start cable??

i imagine its close to the right length, and has all the provisions you would need..
92 Jetta GLI - Black, 1.6D w/ GT2056V turbo..
86 GTI - 4 Door, Med Twilight Gray, Tow Machine..
86 Audi Coupe GT - Tornado Red, All Stock.. WRECKED.
89 Toyota 4Runner - Dark Grey Metallic, LIFTED!

Turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.

Reply #2January 12, 2012, 03:08:40 pm

Bugsy_malone 666

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Re: Fitting a Fuel advance cable?
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2012, 03:08:40 pm »
Well I was considering a vanagon cable, the only problem I could foresee with one of those is how the actual pull think works at the dash end and maybe cost. I'll have to hunt around and see how much they are if you can get them!

Reply #3January 12, 2012, 09:42:42 pm

levi20AE

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Re: Fitting a Fuel advance cable?
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2012, 09:42:42 pm »
Since you don't have heater boxes anymore could you extend one of the heater box cables or at least use the dash knobs and hooks you new line up to those?

lets see pics of this TD baywindow! I'd love to see how you setup the radiator and hear about your experiences.

Reply #4January 13, 2012, 03:23:28 am

Bugsy_malone 666

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Re: Fitting a Fuel advance cable?
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2012, 03:23:28 am »
Since you don't have heater boxes anymore could you extend one of the heater box cables or at least use the dash knobs and hooks you new line up to those?

lets see pics of this TD baywindow! I'd love to see how you setup the radiator and hear about your experiences.

 The problem with the heater box cables is they just aren't long enough, I bought a new on (as both originals were knackered) with the aim to do this but I'd need to joint 3 cables together to make it work, so I thought its to much tucking about and adds 2 points of failure that don't need to be there in the first place. I'll have to try and dig out some pics when I'm on a pc rather than my phone.