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#45
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Jan, 2012 17:49
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Well come on guys, instead of belittling a person for not having the skills necessary.. why not put a pinch more effort in to it and teach them?
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28With this very well written article, you will be able to do the job yourself with confidence. I would not take it to a mechanic that is questionable on it. You have a better chance of doing it yourself. People make it out to be the most ridiculous thing ever, to be honest? It's easier than doing the timing belt on the 1.6-2.0L gas engines..
Here is why it is easier, everything has a lock. put the locks in, slide the belt on, make sure its still Top Dead Center, adjust the pump. Done. Its easier to me because you do not have to strain your neck trying to see down to line the marks up on the intermediate shaft and the crank shaft pullies..
You can do it yourself, read the article I posted. Understand what your reading then attempt it. If you have question of anything, get back to us here before doing it and we'll gladly help you through it. At least, I will
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I would also recommend doing the water pump while you have everything torn down, for it to go later and then have to re-do all this would be a total pain in the rear end.
Goodluck!
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#46
by
burn_your_money
on 16 Jan, 2012 17:55
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Since you don't have AC I would not touch the waterpump because it is very easy to get to by removing the alternator and bracket.
If you do decide to attempt the timing belt yourself (which you can do if you can do suspension) then I would first do some "dry" runs with the pump still installed and practice getting consistent timing readings at the current pump setting (it should be between 0.85-1.05mm).
Whatever you do, do NOT touch the starter until you have turned the engine over twice by hand to make sure nothing is hitting
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#47
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Jan, 2012 18:25
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Alright to add to your post Tyler, I would give the waterpump a look over give the pulley a wiggle and see if the waterpump bearing is good to go.
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#48
by
e30vr6
on 16 Jan, 2012 21:36
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awesome thanks for the info 8v of furry,
also from what i have read the timing belt is "so post" to be done every 60xxx miles (not 100% sure on that) its been 85xxx KM so that's been 50xxx miles. but it will be on my next parts order to get done.
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#49
by
e30vr6
on 16 Jan, 2012 21:52
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also is it worth wile to rebuild the vac pump? BMA has a rebuild kit for around $20.
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#50
by
Toby
on 17 Jan, 2012 01:22
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Did it quit working? If not don't F with it. They do not have a high failure rate.
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#51
by
burn_your_money
on 17 Jan, 2012 19:22
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The vacuum pump kit they are offering is likely for the old diaphragm style pumps. Yours is a rotary one and they almost never fail.
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#52
by
e30vr6
on 18 Jan, 2012 09:45
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#53
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 18 Jan, 2012 09:49
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both of those kits are for OLD pumps.. like was mentioned..
you will be wasting money of you buy either of those kits..
like was mentioned, you have a vane vac pump, not a diaphragm vac pump..
those are NOT for a 91 diesel.. last time a diaphragm pump was used on a VW diesel was like 82 or 83..
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#54
by
e30vr6
on 18 Jan, 2012 11:11
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ah ok good thing i posted this BEFORE i orderd it haha.
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#55
by
srgtlord
on 18 Jan, 2012 15:27
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One note about waterpump pullies, I had a genuine vw waterpump on my diesel when I first purchased the vehicle, it was not leaking, but it had sooooo much play in the bearing it was chewing up the v-belt. Too bad I found this out after I purchased the serpentine setup
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#56
by
vanbcguy
on 19 Jan, 2012 09:41
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One thing to add... It is worthwhile checking out the oil seals while you're doing the T-belt.
I did my T-belt on Jezzie, and the IM shaft oil seal failed about 15,000 km later taking out my otherwise new timing belt (not by breaking it, but severely oil contaminating it). There's only about 3 more bolts to replace the IM shaft oil seal at the same time as you're doing the timing belt.
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#57
by
theman53
on 19 Jan, 2012 16:55
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One thing to add... It is worthwhile checking out the oil seals while you're doing the T-belt.
I did my T-belt on Jezzie, and the IM shaft oil seal failed about 15,000 km later taking out my otherwise new timing belt (not by breaking it, but severely oil contaminating it). There's only about 3 more bolts to replace the IM shaft oil seal at the same time as you're doing the timing belt.
That and something I didn't know until too late. There is an O ring on the back side of that seal carrier for the IM shaft. It is very small but usually needs replacing too. I never installed one on my build and had an oil leak for 8,000 miles...then I figured it out and fixed it. FWIW the seal in the carrier is the same as the cam and crank seal.
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#58
by
e30vr6
on 21 Jan, 2012 10:54
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