Well, the best laid plans of mice and men........
Its been a year since I even looked at this stuff.
Well I sold the head off the GTI for $300. It was ported with a mild cam and adjustable cam gear, so I am in the GTI (soon to be GTD) body a negative $75. I took the nice 14 x 6.5 steel wheels off of a free Wrecked Caddy body to make it a roller since the original wheels were FUBAR. Ialso have a set of 15 x 7.5 Momos that I may try if I can find a pair of tires to replace the bald ones.
I scored a very low miles AAZ motor from a buddy who fell on hard times for $700. It is a JY motor out of California and sat in a dry garage for 10 years. All of this has been sitting for over a year while I tried to keep my head above water financially.
I dropped the AAZ into the car a couple of days ago. I still need a downpipe since all I have is the elbow above the flex joint that the JY monkeys cut.
Prior to dropping the motor in I jerked the EVAP canister and sanitized the gasser wiring harness of all the ignition, KS and OXS bull***. This is a US built car so they are different from the kraut models. I prefer the Westmorland wiring with its integral fuse block and less pointlessly Tuetonic engineering. A good example is the fuel pump relay circuit. The kraut cars use a complex FP relay with logic inside that monitors the tach signal to turn itself on and off. The Westy is a simple relay that is controlled by the KS box.
The sano way to do the harness mod is to jerk all of the boxes and their attendant wiring, leaving the oil pressure, temp, alternator, and starter wires intact. Tease out the tach wire (Bl/Gr), the coil wire (Yel), FP relay (Brown/Green) and the OXS wire (Tan/Black) to use for a GP light, and the 2 Yellow/Green wires (fuse 12v KO). These can be moved around the plastic tubes that shield the harness to end up where you need them. I also added/moved a couple of wires for later use to control the GPs. The yellow coil wire becomes power to the IP. The OXS light will become the GP light driven by the voltage to the buss bar. This will require modifying the OXS light in the cluster by grounding one end of the light where it now get 12v. The Yellow/Blue wires are hot with the key, but fused by F22. Perhaps one of these should power the IP so you could immobilize the car by pulling fuse 22.
I also pulled the gasser external FP and cut and spliced the fuel lines under the car to clean things up. This leaves the transfer pump in the tank intact. It is controlled by grounding the Tan/Yellow wire anywhere you like. I ran it out under the hood so I have the option of turning it off, if I ever need to. I patched the stock wiring into the AAZ plugs for the double temp sender (GPs/Gauge) and the IP and the alternator. I also exposed the W wire if I ever need it. I plan to use an inductive pickup on the 2 lugs on the flywheel.
I used a fuel filter bracket that I found in deep stash to hold a diesel fuel filter but I had to massage the inner fender panel to get the filter low enough to close the hood. I generated some fuel and return lines from 2 gasser supply lines and some bit of hose. The nice thing about the plastic fuel lines is that you can heat them in boiling water and shape them any way you want.
I took the AAZ multi plug bracket and shortened it a bit. You need it to bolt up the coolant pipe so I also used it to mount my Ford relay. The 2 studs on the bracket are spaced perfectly to take the late Ford solenoid. I shortened a GP wire from my harness stash and ran it from GP #3 to the solenoid. That makes the current path through the buss bar shorter. I was going to mount a Mk1 GP fuse between the starter terminal and the relay, but now I think I will use the 2 fusible links left over from the alternator wiring I ditched for heavier stuff.
Well I lit is off tonight running just the elbow off the turbo. It smoked like a *** for a while since it sat upside down for a year on the engine stand, but it does live. I will put some water in it is the morning and run it around the block.
Film at 11:00.
The forlorn '86 GTI that I saved from the scrapper for $225. It had some cool stuff on it, like a big cat back exhaust, A/F meter, ported head w/ mild cam and adjustable gear that will help finance the Low Buck GTD project.
Gasser fuel pump assembly installed on the ground.
Fuel lines rerouted and bridged under car after FP removal.
Fuel line and filter generated out of 2 gasser fuel lines and some parts from deep stash.
Ford relay for GPs mounted to the bracket that held the multi pin plug to the T-stat housing.
Topic: Building my Low Buck GTD (Read 3733 times)
