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#30
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 14 Nov, 2011 18:13
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The cam sprocket is not all that strong, it's not steel but pot metal or aluminum? When you put a puller on it or pry on it or hammer on it at the o.d., there is a lot of leverage and the sprocket may not survive as you have found out. The punch and hammer through the hole hitting the sprocket rib is the way to go if you want to avoid possible damage.
variety is the spice of life so another method....
I've damaged a pulley by getting too enthusiastic with a particularly recalcitrant pulley taper so changed tact.
Slacken nut
I use a wide (4in) brick bolster chisel to act as a lever to apply a little force behind the pulley to lever it away from the engine then give the bolt head a sharp tap.
Maybe not ideal? I'll try the punch through hole technique next time.
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#31
by
Toby
on 14 Nov, 2011 22:44
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The cam sprockets are sintered iron or steel, not pot metal. Weak and brittle but great for making cheap parts that are better than castings but not as good or expensive as machined parts.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering
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#32
by
regcheeseman
on 15 Nov, 2011 09:05
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I just do it the way the Bentley manual says to do it...
real men don't use a manual
well, not until we've lost our temper and broken some expensive bits first
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#33
by
maxfax
on 15 Nov, 2011 09:09
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I just do it the way the Bentley manual says to do it...
real men don't use a manual
well, not until we've lost our temper and broken some expensive bits first
HERE HERE!!! Let's have a beer!
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#34
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Nov, 2011 13:17
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Seems that I use my manual for corrective process. In that I refer to it to figure out how come what I am doing is not working. Then there is this light bulb moment and I go back to it once I figure what I was doing wrong.
So I'll raise one to the real men learning after the parts are broken and tempers have flared. BTDT. A Lot
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#35
by
steevz
on 25 Nov, 2011 21:50
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The vanagon doesn't have a drift hole in the timing cover. Where on the sprocket does the drift touch?
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#36
by
rs899
on 26 Nov, 2011 08:48
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Out on the edge where the belt rides. I was trying to pull a hydro camshaft in the boneyard yesterday and I couldn't pop the blasted gear off. I eventually just gave up because this one had a chipped timing slot, so it was really no better than the one I was going to replace anyway. I never had any problem popping any of the one I had put on...
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#37
by
steevz
on 26 Nov, 2011 19:09
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Preload tension with a screwdriver on the backside and then tapping the sprocket with hammer worked like a charm.
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#38
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Nov, 2011 19:28
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Preload tension with a screwdriver on the backside and then tapping the sprocket with hammer worked like a charm.
thats a good way to break the snout off the cam too. my grandpa has done it with a cam, and an injection pump..
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#39
by
steevz
on 26 Nov, 2011 21:14
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I broke the snout of a cam by not preloading the sprockets opposite side and whacking the backside of the sprocket,.
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#40
by
vdubspeed
on 28 Nov, 2011 06:20
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holy *** guys. Only on vwdiesel.net would you find three pages on how to remove a CAM GEAR
loosen bolt, hit with hammer.
Done!!!!
I agree with Toby, if you can't do this, put the tools down.
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#41
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 28 Nov, 2011 08:45
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holy *** guys. Only on vwdiesel.net would you find three pages on how to remove a CAM GEAR
loosen bolt, hit with hammer.
Done!!!!
I agree with Toby, if you can't do this, put the tools down.
To be fair some of the problems rest with current or PO's all but welding the pulley on with glues and obscene graunching up of the bolt.
It's only got to grip stronger than a snatched rubber timing belt, not a high tensile high powered motor cycle chain 
. Just do a good prep job, and finger tight will grip like a vice.EDIT Ha ha, don't leave it at finger tight though
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#42
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2011 15:23
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To be fair not all three pages are about how to remove the cam gear. We digressed and bunny trailed big time on this one. Maybe we need an Icon for that, more than two twists from topic and the icon pops up on the main page.