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#90
by
steevz
on 27 Nov, 2011 19:40
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Backed the screw out a whole bunch and shes runnin now.
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#91
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Nov, 2011 20:56
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drive it but don't break it. Report how it runs.
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#92
by
steevz
on 27 Nov, 2011 23:49
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Its runs great while driving. Not a powerhouse... but 100x more power then last time I "drove" it. All my exhaust studs snapped while removing the bolts.. inside the exhaust manifold.. I tried drilling them out but even almost whole size the left over bits won't come out.. any way to do this? Drill all the way and tap add bigger studs?
IdeaS?
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#93
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2011 06:38
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lots of penetrating oil soaking on it, heat the exhaust manifold some with a torch to expand the metal but don't heat the bolt areas. I have had good luck using easy outs for this problem.
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#94
by
Toby
on 28 Nov, 2011 10:56
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Easy-out suck because if the bolt does not want to come out they will swedge what is left into the hole if you use the size they call for, so you must use and undersized one not to risk making it all but impossible to get out.
If you have the hole drilled to the point where you can see the threads from inside the hole you can usually pick out the remnants of the bolt with a sharp pick. If not, which is likely, because it is quite hard to get the hole in the bolt both concentric and right down the centerline of the bolt for its entire length, you will need to use a tiny diamond point chisel to collapse the remnant of the bolt in on itself. You can then grab the remnant with small needle nose pliers and spin it out. This will bugger the threads a bit, but it cannot be helped. Just clean them up with a DULL tap or a thread chased.
One thing to remember is that candle wax melted into the hot part will often wick itself into the threads and free the remnant of the bolt. I like to follow this with a very sharp, narrow center punch and a small ball peen. Make a small center punch prick at the edge of the broken bolt. Then make it deeper and work the bolt with the punch held tangential to circumference of the bolt to unscrew it. You may have to move 180* around the bolt and take another bite as the bolt may bind in the hole. If you can find any kind of ridge on the face of the break in the bolt, use that to get a better "purchase" when striking the punch with the hammer. This is delicate work and usually not very quick, so try not to be ham handed or you will just make it worse.
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#95
by
steevz
on 28 Nov, 2011 11:52
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Oh yeah, its also not smoking anymore.
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#96
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2011 12:16
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What is the chant? If you don't have pictures it didn't happen? Another video of proof please.
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#97
by
vanbcguy
on 28 Nov, 2011 20:11
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Definitely shoot some more video!!
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#98
by
steevz
on 28 Nov, 2011 20:14
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Going to run some diesel purge through it tonight when I get home from work. Tomorrow morning ill take video.
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#99
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2011 20:34
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Oh not that line, I will ____ in the morning. Going for the fog effect, or the cold start success I guess.
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#100
by
steevz
on 29 Nov, 2011 01:35
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Lol, no I work from 3pm - 1am. So, it's dark when I get home, no good for taking video.
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#101
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 29 Nov, 2011 10:11
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Easy-out suck because if the bolt does not want to come out they will swedge what is left into the hole if you use the size they call for, so you must use and undersized one not to risk making it all but impossible to get out.
If you have the hole drilled to the point where you can see the threads from inside the hole you can usually pick out the remnants of the bolt with a sharp pick. If not, which is likely, because it is quite hard to get the hole in the bolt both concentric and right down the centerline of the bolt for its entire length, you will need to use a tiny diamond point chisel to collapse the remnant of the bolt in on itself. You can then grab the remnant with small needle nose pliers and spin it out. This will bugger the threads a bit, but it cannot be helped. Just clean them up with a DULL tap or a thread chased.
One thing to remember is that candle wax melted into the hot part will often wick itself into the threads and free the remnant of the bolt. I like to follow this with a very sharp, narrow center punch and a small ball peen. Make a small center punch prick at the edge of the broken bolt. Then make it deeper and work the bolt with the punch held tangential to circumference of the bolt to unscrew it. You may have to move 180* around the bolt and take another bite as the bolt may bind in the hole. If you can find any kind of ridge on the face of the break in the bolt, use that to get a better "purchase" when striking the punch with the hammer. This is delicate work and usually not very quick, so try not to be ham handed or you will just make it worse.
What I have done is MIG a lump onto the piece of stud. Enough to grab with vice grips. If there is any protrusion, then MIG a nut on. This extreme heat often loosens the stud somewhat.
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#102
by
steevz
on 29 Nov, 2011 11:06
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Okay, cold start video of the Vanagon this morning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NjhyAuIYEUDidn't do the diesel purge yet. Going to do that now. That's without using the block heater too, which actually functions amazingly.
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#103
by
vanbcguy
on 29 Nov, 2011 12:10
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BTW the god-awful rattle is the mostly-not-attached exhaust system...
Glad to see how much cleaner it's running - that looks better than after we got it going for sure.
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#104
by
steevz
on 02 Dec, 2011 17:51
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How.. changed the front brake pads and bled the brakes today. Big clonky calipers.. 1 piece, 2 pistons. On the passenger side it had a seized piston and that brake pad was bare metal on metal, the rotor was pooched too.
Got the piston freed up, bled again and now no more grinding.