'90 1.6NA into '77 Scirocco questions.

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So although not a poster here, not a novice.  I've actually done this conversion and more often the reverse several times, problem is all those times are pushing 20 years ago, and I've not done one with A2 5 speed into A1 4 speed tranny as I hope.

Here are the cars, A2 donor is '90 1.6 NA with 140k.  5 speed obviously.  Has A/C.  Runs and drives well, but is wrecked a bit and has no title so I paid $300 for the car...

I have 3 A1 Scirocco's, will probably go into a '77.  This is a 77k mile original car, that the POs wife ran out of oil 20 years ago.  It is a 4 speed gas (obviously) car.  No A/C.

So in addition to all this I have a AAZ pump (new), new AAZ dual pressure injectors, and an AAZ K03 turbo, intake and exhaust manifolds.  I actually have the new AAZ to go with all this, but it is in WV and I'm in AK, the above are mostly up here.  I'm not 100% sure I want to use the turbo, but figure while I'm doing it WTH.  The pump and injectors are still in WV actually, and I'm not against doing just an "EcoDiesel" immitation, as with the little KO3 I figure the NA pump can probably be adjusted to fuel it if I keep boost reasonable?  I also have an AAZ, a 200Q, and a Saab intercooler hanging about.

So mostly I'm looking for specifics about what else I need to source, as like I said it has been 20 years.  Particularly what I need motor mount wise, what I need to do the 5 to 4 speed conversion (just the one rod?, I just don't recall), what I need to eliminate the A/C compressor.  Opinions on keeping it NA in the light A1 body, vs rolling the turbo.  For the turbo suggestions on, downpipe etc.  I have a TT 2.25" flange back stainless setup (bought years ago for a no cat '79) to mate up to.  Obviouslly I need oil supply and drain, those don't concern me, plenty of places to do both, but if there is an easy cheap factory way.

Thanks for any and all opinions.  I'm looking for a fun little mileage maker mostly, but don't want decimated by modern traffic.  I drove a '77 1.5 Rabbit for years in HS and college though, and even then obviously was woleful power wise, still drive several buses, so I don't have illusions here but if I could still net 40mpg with some power I wouldn't mind.  For chassis I'm going with SofSports and Bilsteins I have hanging around, just vented front brakes, 16V lower chassis connector and sway bars, rolling probably on 14" snowflakes, nothing crazy but enough I think for the power and light platform.

Thanks again,
John

[R.O.R-2.0]

its a mk1 car. if you hook the mk2 engine/trans up with mk1 mounts, it will be a drop in procedure, for the mechanical part atleast. wiring is also super easy.

i have a Vanagon engine, and a 92 Jetta trans in my 84 Rabbit..

its all about having the right brackets and linkages..

the pump will have to come off the engine to install the passenger side engine mount from the mk1.. you need a diesel mk1 engine/injection pump mount..

mk1 and mk2 engines and trannys are physically almost identical, very few, subtle differences.. the engine mounts being the biggest difference..

also, you will have to switch most of the shifter pieces.. the relay rod, and shifter are the only parts you leave intact. everything else must be sourced from a 5spd mk1 car..

when i did my trans swap, i went from 4 to 5 spd too, and all i changed, was my trans, trans mount, and axles. i modified the stock 4 speed linkages to work with the longer throw of the 5 spd selector lever. (the lever on the trans that actually shifts the gears)

anyways, getting all the under-hood parts from a mk1 5spd car is the easiest way to do the conversion. you can do it like i did, and mix/match/modify parts to get it working..

oh yea, shifter alignment on a mk1 is a PAIN IN THE @$$

[ORCoaster]

oh yea, shifter alignment on a mk1 is a PAIN IN THE @$$

Have to second this.  I did some work on my MK1 a while back, say 3 months and I am still having to crawl under the car with a 13 mm socket and tweak the position of that main rod.  Car always wants to go into reverse not first.  I think I have it close now.  But shifting cold is a bit stiff.  Wasn't like that before and I don't want it like that now.  I have marked the bracket and rod so now IF I crawl under there I know which way to go and by how much. 

Yeah a bit slow on the uptake on that one.

[Powered by Spearco]

Aw come on, its not that hard. Have you tried a 16mm nut or bolt at the shifter under the car trick? Uncover the shifter boot under neith and have some one hold a 16mm nut or bolt between the lock out and the bottom of the shifter itself and the tighten down the 13mm nut and bolt on the shaft. Done. Works for me every time.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i dont have any short cuts like that, but i find that usually, the shifter rests in the 12o'clock position when its adjusted right..

it took me 5 or 6 tries to adjust my mk1 shifter when i did my 5 spd swap. might have been because i mixed and matched linkages and shifter parts between the 4 and 5 speed cars..

[ORCoaster]

Thanks Spearco I was trying to get to that magic 15 mm the Bentley says is supposed to be between those two pieces and I just couldn't do it laying under the car by myself.  Now I know why we need to drive these things to a buddies place and work on them.  Sometimes that extra hand is worth a lot of frustration. 

I think my major problem is trying to get that distance correct against the tension of the stick.  Do we not place the shifter in the third gear position?  I think mine for a while was going to far until I tightened the 5th gear adjustment on the transmission. 

Thanks I will drop a bolt in next time I am under there.  I don't have that boot around the lower shifter mechanism.  I can get in from the top easy enough.

[R.O.R-2.0]

my 84 is the only car ive EVER seen with the FACTORY STOCK under car shifter boot and cap, and everything, still intact.

my 81 only had a small portion of the boot left on it..

all my other ones didnt have any signs of a boot at all.