-
SHCS for 11mm Head bolts?
by
monomer
on 17 Oct, 2011 12:36
-
Took the head off this 1.6d here, and now it needs to go back together.
The bolts that I took out look like nothing more then normal grade 8 socket heads. I simply cannot afford the nice ARP studs currently, I just want this thing to run.
I have a supplier for good quality grade 8 stuff locally, Should I just use them or should I order 11mm head bolts online? I'm also having trouble sourcing them, as I don't know what year this engine is and most sites do not tell you what size bolts their selling!
-
#1
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 17 Oct, 2011 13:35
-
If the bolts are Allen head, or hexagonal head, then reuse them as they are not stretch.
If the socket is a 12 pointed spline, then measure them and if they are the same length as new, or about 1mm longer, reuse them once more.
-
#2
by
monomer
on 17 Oct, 2011 13:49
-
If the bolts are Allen head, or hexagonal head, then reuse them as they are not stretch.
If the socket is a 12 pointed spline, then measure them and if they are the same length as new, or about 1mm longer, reuse them once more.
Just normal six points/allen.
Suppose I should get the bible out and see what it says. Glad I kept the bolts!
-
#3
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 18 Oct, 2011 14:22
-
Remember to clean the threads, and use a working torque wrench, because of the dangers of damaging the block if over doing it.
-
#4
by
monomer
on 20 Oct, 2011 22:34
-
Remember to clean the threads, and use a working torque wrench, because of the dangers of damaging the block if over doing it.
wire brush, of coarse.
My torque wrench is of the harbor frieght kind. Just did a HG on a k-car, and it worked. Should be close enough.
-
#5
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 21 Oct, 2011 10:00
-
Remember to clean the threads, and use a working torque wrench, because of the dangers of damaging the block if over doing it.
wire brush, of coarse.
My torque wrench is of the harbor frieght kind. Just did a HG on a k-car, and it worked. Should be close enough.
eew, i wouldnt use a HF tq wrench.. those things ate close, but not close enough for my tastes..
be sure to oil the bolts too, especially the end bolts.. twisting dry bolts in the threads is what helps the bosses split..
-
#6
by
VW Smokr
on 21 Oct, 2011 18:13
-
Remember to clean the threads...
Probably not necessary to say it. but... that includes chasing the threaded holes in the block with a bottoming plug tap, and then blowing all the old coolant, oil & crud out of them. The 2 holes at the front end of a 11mm block seem especially prone to cracking out. BTDT
J.R.
SoCal
-
#7
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 22 Oct, 2011 17:11
-
$300 Snap-On torsion bar type. Not sure if it's 2% or 1% accurate. A gift from my first and last tenant
-
#8
by
Toby
on 23 Oct, 2011 10:49
-
Remember to clean the threads...
Probably not necessary to say it. but... that includes chasing the threaded holes in the block with a bottoming plug tap, and then blowing all the old coolant, oil & crud out of them. The 2 holes at the front end of a 11mm block seem especially prone to cracking out. BTDT
Actually it is good to repeat it once more: Always chase the bolt holes with a bottoming tap until the head bolts will screw all the way to the bottom of the hole using just 2 fingers. If 2 fingers won't do it, chase that hole again. Then blow all of the chips and trash out of the hole and try again. Use a blow gun with a long enough tip to bottom in the hole, so you are blowing the swarf OUT not just down.
In addition, it is not dry threads that split the blocks but oil and antifreeze/water in the bottom of the head bolt holes. As you run down the bolt, the hydraulic pressure builds to the point where it splits the boss. This is most likely when running the bolts down with a rattle gun or air wrench, so beware. The block will crack before the bolt/washer even touches the head if you spin it in fast enough.
Both the head and block surface need to be shiny clean, not just scraped. Take 200 grit sandpaper and get all of the "color" off of both head and block, then degrease both surfaces to remove ANY trace of oil just before it goes back together.
In addition follow the retorque recommendations for both stretch (12 point) and non-stretch bolts. (6 point). On a non-TTY, retorque every time you have the valve cover off. It makes a difference.
-
#9
by
maxfax
on 24 Oct, 2011 21:39
-
And ultimately, prepare yourself for the block to crack..
I'm not saying it will, I'm not saying that there is anything else that can be done to prevent it, but prepare yourself in the case that it does, because that's what they do, even with the ARP studs on occasion...
-
#10
by
rabbid79
on 25 Oct, 2011 20:44
-
-
#11
by
monomer
on 27 Oct, 2011 03:00
-
And ultimately, prepare yourself for the block to crack.. I'm not saying it will, I'm not saying that there is anything else that can be done to prevent it, but prepare yourself in the case that it does, because that's what they do, even with the ARP studs on occasion...
I have a spare, a much more rare block (non-ac)
Would just suck having to drop this one out, re hook everything back up. Spare block is bare, without a trans connected...
200 grit you say? I've never proper a block like that. I usually just wire wheel. I wonder If I have a piece of grind stock to be sure it's flat when sanding.
-
#12
by
monomer
on 28 Oct, 2011 06:53
-
$300 Snap-On torsion bar type. Not sure if it's 2% or 1% accurate. A gift from my first and last tenant
Beam type wrenches are indeed more accurate then clickers, as you're measuring with deflection of the beam (no springs involved)
BUTYou have to deal with parallax when using them. Clickers are much easier to get constant readings with.
I know a shop that does big horsepower v8's. All the assembly is done with HF clickers, not one HG issue to date.
-
#13
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Oct, 2011 08:44
-
Remember to clean the threads...
Probably not necessary to say it. but... that includes chasing the threaded holes in the block with a bottoming plug tap, and then blowing all the old coolant, oil & crud out of them. The 2 holes at the front end of a 11mm block seem especially prone to cracking out. BTDT
J.R.
SoCal
the 2 at the rear are the only ones ive ever seen split soo bad that they wont hold bolts anymore..
-
#14
by
Toby
on 01 Nov, 2011 00:06
-
I split the drivers side front, the one time I did it. Or rather, I opened up the crack to the point that it would not hold a bolt. I saw the crack but it was so narrow that I thought it was a scratch in the deck surface. I ran the bolts in with an air ratchet and spit it wide open before the bolt touched the head. I got lazy and did not chase the holes because a high buck German car shop had just had the head off.