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My life is now plagued with stuck vanes! (VNT)
by
camboscams
on 11 Oct, 2011 19:54
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So since iIve installed my vnt 15 in probably 500 miles iIve already had to remove the turbo and unstick the vanes once and their well on their way to being seized now. So i was thinking would it be possible to put a water injection set up before the turbo like in the exhaust manifold to steam clean the vanes and hopefully loosen them and allow them to move? Any thoughts? Would their be any left if it were injected into the intake so i could get the benefit of burning it?
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 Oct, 2011 08:54
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i just think our engines are too dirty to reliably run vanes.. mine were perfect when i installed my turbo, then they siezed in about 500 miles or so, just like you describe.
now, my turbo doesnt use vanes, they are set in a "GOOD ENOUGH" spot..
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#2
by
Pob
on 13 Oct, 2011 08:12
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I know this may not be practical for you but have you thought about running the engine on bio diesel. I make my own fuel sometimes for our 2 VW TD's and before I started making it I did quite a lot of reading on the subject.
Apparently Bio Diesel has certain cleaning properties and is over time supposed to clean the coke deposits from the inside of the cylinder heads, if this is correct it should do the same to your turbo.
I know this definitely has some truth in it as when you start off using it in an old car that's run on pump fuel its whole life it cleans all the Dino diesel deposits out of the tank and fuel lines and occasionally blocks the filters for the first 1000-1500 miles or so until the tanks clean.
The motor really seems to like it too. If I could get enough used veg oil I'd use it always!
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#3
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Oct, 2011 08:24
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bio-diesel CAUSES coke..
and makes glycerin build up in the lines, and inside the pump body.
bio-d MOST CERTAINLY does not clean engines, it helps kill them from the glycerin..
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#4
by
Pob
on 13 Oct, 2011 08:39
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If the Bio's made properly it won't have any glycerine in it. The reason you convert it to Bio is to get rid of the glycerine. I know a lot of people don't like it but I've done 1000's of miles on it and never had any problems.
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#5
by
camboscams
on 15 Oct, 2011 16:10
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So would a water injection setup set to inject into the exhaust manifold clear up the vanes enough to justify it? It could be injected once the engine was warmed up so it would vaporize instantly and steam clean the vanes?
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#6
by
wdkingery
on 15 Oct, 2011 16:24
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Yeah I was wondering this too, as it was in your original post. I don't see why not.. Course ill try anything once. So you suggest to just drill a hole.. What to put in there? What kind of 1200 degree water nozzles you got?
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#7
by
camboscams
on 15 Oct, 2011 16:40
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I don't know but the way i'm thinking is that you wouldn't even need a nozzle at those temps it would vaporize or it would boil its way to the vanes and wouldn't matter
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#8
by
wdkingery
on 15 Oct, 2011 16:45
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Well yer gonna need something or pressure won't allow water to enter the manifold @ all. Gonna need to push it in some kinda way.
Are you gonna do this or chat about it? Cause as soon as theman53 gets me a motor mount, I too will be goin vnt.. And my motor will probably coke them as well, cause she's real tired already
I am also gonna work my vanes by hand so maybe this will help keep them from gettin jammed up
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#9
by
camboscams
on 15 Oct, 2011 16:59
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Okay, well i didn't say pump but i don't think i need a nozzle to atomize it due to its instant evaporation ... And i'm thinking of doing this if i can get some positive feedback.
As for the pump does anyone think that the factory windshield will create enough pressure at idle to overcome drive pressure? I would like to use this considering its already wired and is in place.
And I thing i could remove the egr blockoff plate on my exhaust manifold and drill and weld a coiled (to remove heat) brake line for the line injection line.
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#10
by
wdkingery
on 15 Oct, 2011 17:09
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soundin better by the minute.
i wonder if that pump will have enough @ss; i don't use mine anyway. but you'll need somethin metal at the end of the line due to the #'s of heat present
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#11
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 15 Oct, 2011 17:42
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working the vanes by hand is a bad idea. you dont have enough hands to work the vanes, steer, and shift at the same time..
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#12
by
camboscams
on 15 Oct, 2011 17:59
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Yea i agree, ive got mine hooked up to my throttle so they never stop moving.... And here i am, with stuck vanes
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#13
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 16 Oct, 2011 09:10
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Yea i agree, ive got mine hooked up to my throttle so they never stop moving.... And here i am, with stuck vanes
my vanes are stationary, and ive been smiling for years..
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#14
by
camboscams
on 16 Oct, 2011 09:42
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Yea i agree, ive got mine hooked up to my throttle so they never stop moving.... And here i am, with stuck vanes
my vanes are stationary, and ive been smiling for years..
Well thats fine and all but if i was gonna do that then i woulda stayed with the wastegated turbo i had on it.