Author Topic: Internal IP pressure again.  (Read 10156 times)

Reply #15November 18, 2011, 04:46:48 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #15 on: November 18, 2011, 04:46:48 pm »
I'm thinkin' maybe this shows why the pressure isn't getting high enough.


That sleeve on my rabbits pump doesn't have them holes, the golf does, the holes are to leak off pressure at certain loads/rpm to change the dynamic timing. As the sleeve slides on the guide holes line up and let pressure go or else seal and let pressure build.

Now I just have to figure out if mine's working properly........

Also the governor shaft on the rabbit has backward threads while the golf has normal threads and a normal nut.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #16November 18, 2011, 07:58:07 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #16 on: November 18, 2011, 07:58:07 pm »
Well I put it together and it still runs about the same.

I haven't messed with the timing at all though.

It's still blowing white smoke unless I pull the cold start and then it still misses too often and every 5 seconds or so it clacks real hard, maybe the injectors are junk even though I just pop tested them not to long ago.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #17November 18, 2011, 09:44:06 pm

ORCoaster

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #17 on: November 18, 2011, 09:44:06 pm »
Yes on the check valves on the back of the pump, the delivery tubes connect to them.  My thinking is that there is only a small amount of fuel that actually gets "pumped out" to the injectors.   That fuel joins up with other previously delivered pumps and the entire tube is filled clear to the injectors.  When more gets shoved in from the pump it is then forced out the injectors. 

If the delivery check valves are bad and let this column of fuel leak back into the main pump some then the total pressure to the injectors is less than what would be needed to get good delivery and atomization into the cylinders.  Short a bit on both fuel and pressure.  You say you pop tested them and they were good.  What about checking delivery by hand cranking the IP pump.  Or turn it with a variable speed drill. 

If the rest of the pump inside is good as you say and the vanes aren't hanging up then I am now moving my thoughts to the final delivery points.  Although I still say your pressure at idle is low.  40-42 would be better than 35.


Reply #18November 18, 2011, 11:30:30 pm

Toby

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #18 on: November 18, 2011, 11:30:30 pm »
Well I put it together and it still runs about the same.

I haven't messed with the timing at all though.

What exactly do you mean by this? You are setting the IP timing with a dial indicator, right? What do you have the timing set at? 1.05 or some other other number?

Reply #19November 19, 2011, 01:26:58 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2011, 01:26:58 pm »
What exactly do you mean by this? You are setting the IP timing with a dial indicator, right? What do you have the timing set at? 1.05 or some other other number?

So far all I've done it lined up the marks for installing the belt on the right tooth and it runs but I can tell the injection is late.

I don't have the proper dial indicator and it's a real chore using the one I have so I just go by ear. I've used a dial indicator before and didn't like it anyways, can't remember what way I retimed it but I changed it by ear and had better performance and mileage.
« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 08:52:25 pm by rabbitman »
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #20November 20, 2011, 11:45:27 pm

Toby

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #20 on: November 20, 2011, 11:45:27 pm »
Actually the dial indicator is quite easy to use. You pull the plug in the back of the pump and screw it in. You do not have to remove anything else. W/O the timing tools you are just chasing your tail. They are only about $53 complete off of the interwebs, so there is no excuse for any diesel guy not having one. It will make your life much easier.

Until you can lay your hands on the proper tools, find a big hill and use the Swedish dyno. Make a couple baseline runs and then start advancing the timing in very small increments and see if it gets better. If not try the other way until you find the sweet spot.

Reply #21November 21, 2011, 06:42:40 am

ORCoaster

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2011, 06:42:40 am »
Toby,  I find it very ironic that you call this method the Swedish dyno,  They are some of the finest makers of precision equipment in the world.  But I guess if you don't have the tools the terran will work for you too.  Does it have to be a hill or will any flat distance that you can time to work?

Reply #22November 21, 2011, 07:19:17 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #22 on: November 21, 2011, 07:19:17 pm »
Does it have to be a hill or will any flat distance that you can time to work?

With flat ground shifting at different rpm or missing a shift will change the outcome and the test won't be totally conclusive.A hill is just hold it to the floor and see how much speed you gain or loose.

Actually the dial indicator is quite easy to use. You pull the plug in the back of the pump and screw it in. You do not have to remove anything else.

I've used the correct tools before so I know how to use 'em but I no longer have access to them. The dial indicator I have is a universal type with clamps and all different ways to mount it, I used it once and it took forever to get it clamped in the right place and steady enough to actually use.

If I could buy just the dial indicator for way cheaper I would since I don't need the cam or IP lock
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #23November 21, 2011, 07:56:32 pm

ORCoaster

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« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 08:02:39 pm by ORCoaster »

Reply #24November 21, 2011, 10:23:28 pm

Toby

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #24 on: November 21, 2011, 10:23:28 pm »
Does it have to be a hill or will any flat distance that you can time to work?

With flat ground shifting at different rpm or missing a shift will change the outcome and the test won't be totally conclusive.A hill is just hold it to the floor and see how much speed you gain or loose.

Quote

In addition you can do flat out runs from a dead stop on a hill and not have to break the speed limit. Not always important but if you are making 5 or 10 back to back runs while you are making timing changes, its nice to know you won't be risking a ticket. The hill also increases the the speed differences over a flat road. At least on a short (<1/8 miles) runs.

Reply #25November 21, 2011, 10:30:27 pm

Toby

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #25 on: November 21, 2011, 10:30:27 pm »


I've used the correct tools before so I know how to use 'em but I no longer have access to them. The dial indicator I have is a universal type with clamps and all different ways to mount it, I used it once and it took forever to get it clamped in the right place and steady enough to actually use.

If I could buy just the dial indicator for way cheaper I would since I don't need the cam or IP lock

Try these guys. $53:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=VW+Diesel+Injector+Pump+Timing+Gauge+Tools+Injection

Reply #26November 21, 2011, 11:54:56 pm

rabbitman

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #26 on: November 21, 2011, 11:54:56 pm »
That's prothe, a much talked about guy that was here for a while until he kinda got ran off (nobody told him to leave though) since he wouldn't disclose who/where his stuff was made.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #27November 22, 2011, 07:04:55 am

ORCoaster

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Re: Internal IP pressure again.
« Reply #27 on: November 22, 2011, 07:04:55 am »
Forgot to consult the many names of Prothe list before posting.  Man that list is long.