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#15
by
Luckypabst
on 11 Aug, 2011 05:50
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The question still remains at how far do you move the IP c.c.w. to zero the pointer.
You don't zero the gauge by moving the injector pump.
Turn the engine CCW from TDC until the needle stops moving, then rotate the face of the dial gauge until the zero position is aligned with the pointer. Turn the engine CW to TDC then move the pump until the gauge points to 1mm/.039".
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#16
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Aug, 2011 06:47
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Sorry , that was a typo. I meant how far do you move the crankshaft c.c.w. to zero the pointer. I'll go modify my post now.
The question still remains at how far do you move the IP c.c.w. to zero the pointer.
You don't zero the gauge by moving the injector pump.
Turn the engine CCW from TDC until the needle stops moving, then rotate the face of the dial gauge until the zero position is aligned with the pointer. Turn the engine CW to TDC then move the pump until the gauge points to 1mm/.039".
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#17
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 11 Aug, 2011 09:11
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Sorry , that was a typo. I meant how far do you move the crankshaft c.c.w. to zero the pointer. I'll go modify my post now.
The question still remains at how far do you move the IP c.c.w. to zero the pointer.
You don't zero the gauge by moving the injector pump.
Turn the engine CCW from TDC until the needle stops moving, then rotate the face of the dial gauge until the zero position is aligned with the pointer. Turn the engine CW to TDC then move the pump until the gauge points to 1mm/.039".
Just try 45-90 degrees.
Perhaps the part of my description with the horses was inappropriate. Try a childs circular road with four hump back bridges. Each bridge corresponds to the cam or lump in the pump which pushes the fuel piston. As they are only 2.3mm high easily overlooked when inspecting a pumps insides for the first time. Congratulations on making a pump up in any event 
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#18
by
Luckypabst
on 11 Aug, 2011 09:15
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Not trying to be a stickler here... just wanna make sure we're all on the same page.
You turn the crank CCW until the gauge stops moving, not until it points to zero.
Maybe it's all semantics at this point. I re-read your last post and think maybe we're saying the same thing with different words.
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#19
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 11 Aug, 2011 09:45
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My mistake again for not being clear. I meant:
"How far do you move the crankshaft c.c.w. (till the gauge stops moving) at which point you zero the pointer?"
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#20
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 11 Aug, 2011 10:13
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My mistake again for not being clear. I meant:
"How far do you move the crankshaft c.c.w. (till the gauge stops moving) at which point you zero the pointer?"
Yes
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#21
by
jb86
on 20 Sep, 2011 19:52
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I have a question about which dial indicator to use
I have a 91 jetta. Bought 2yrs ago
Had worn out MF turbo diesel (had been run with torn air filter)
Parts car was 1991 Eco, with hydraulic head. Rebuilt that engine to install
I bought an ip with performance upgrade from Giles at performance diesel
He said it's a mild mod on it and to use standard 2.5mm preload on indicator
I'll run a k24 @ 15psi. I was told to use an aaz head gasket, much stronger and no re torque
I bought a dial indicator from emiata or prothe
Is it ok?
I've never used on
I'm not understanding the increments on it
Thousandths ? It's not millimeters
As I received it, the needle is about 9 o'clock
And the small dial is shy of 12 o'clock
I push it in about 1 mm and it zeros both
There are 2 buttons on top, one just to left of top
Top one goes up with the rod
One to side locks and unlocks the dial
Is this one ok or is there one better suited?
I've read thru this thread to understand what I can but until I have a working indicator I'm stuck
questions-
I started by installing the new timing belt
Ip pinned
Crank at 0, at flywheel, aligned with tranny pointer
the timing belt was off by 1/2 cog
I did a test with old belt just to try
I turned crank ccw enough to get belt over crank and ip
Then turned cw slightly to lightly tension
And it aligned at flywheel again
I tensioned the bearing till approx 1/8" deflection with mild pressure as bentley requires
(does that sound right?)
And found fairly consistent tension all around
Is that sound proper?
Last
Should I install the timing belt and tension
And THEN adjust the IP timing?
Does the tension change when ip is adjusted?
I would guess that it only turns a tiny amount so tension shouldn't change much
Thanks for any help
Jon
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#22
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 20 Sep, 2011 20:12
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The dial gauge should say if it's mm or inch and what each division is.
You have to loosen the cam sprocket off its taper to get the belt on perfectly.
tensioner the belt before timing it.
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#23
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 21 Sep, 2011 07:06
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I have a question about which dial indicator to use
I have a 91 jetta. Bought 2yrs ago
Had worn out MF turbo diesel (had been run with torn air filter)
Parts car was 1991 Eco, with hydraulic head. Rebuilt that engine to install
I bought an ip with performance upgrade from Giles at performance diesel
He said it's a mild mod on it and to use standard 2.5mm preload on indicator
I'll run a k24 @ 15psi. I was told to use an aaz head gasket, much stronger and no re torque
I bought a dial indicator from emiata or prothe
Is it ok? Probably as long as it moves freely and needle returns back to where you started when gently released.
I've never used on
I'm not understanding the increments on it
Thousandths ? It's not millimeters
As I received it, the needle is about 9 o'clock
And the small dial is shy of 12 o'clock
I push it in about 1 mm and it zeros both
There are 2 buttons on top, one just to left of top
Top one goes up with the rod
One to side locks and unlocks the dial
To check the dial gauge scale, get a 1ft/305mm ruler or a tapemeasure, and resting the gauge on top of the scale so that the tip is on the measuring stick's zero,push the gauge in and count how many whole turns the big needle does before stopping. Read off actual travel. I suspect that you will get about 8 turns and it will be 8mm if this is the case. Thus you know the value of one rotation. With the little pointer, you can set the preload to zero as your little pointer conveniently rests at -1. This initial starting point doesn't need to be exact as rotating the main scale so that the 0 aligns with the pointer get's your exact '0'Is this one ok or is there one better suited?
I've read thru this thread to understand what I can but until I have a working indicator I'm stuck
questions-
I started by installing the new timing belt
Ip pinned
Crank at 0, at flywheel, aligned with tranny pointer
the timing belt was off by 1/2 cog
I did a test with old belt just to try
I turned crank ccw enough to get belt over crank and ip
Then turned cw slightly to lightly tension
And it aligned at flywheel again.
Thus with new belt back on, and the crank/flywheell on the pointer of the transmission, undo cam pulley bolt a couple of turns [ cam lobes for #1 must be pointing away from engine] and tap cam pulley loose.
Now recheck crank at TDC then rotate error out of cam position by turning cam only with some grips, until flat bar and feeler gauges fit in slot retighten cam bolt rotate crank twice and lock cam pulley securely.
Then move on to do pump timing.
I tensioned the bearing till approx 1/8" deflection with mild pressure as bentley requires
(does that sound right?)
Too tight IMO This will duff your pump bearing leading to belt wander and rubbing and possibly the dreaded intrmediate bearing damage so loved here 
And found fairly consistent tension all around
Is that sound proper?
Last
Should I install the timing belt and tension
And THEN adjust the IP timing?
Yes
Does the tension change when ip is adjusted?
microscopically
I would guess that it only turns a tiny amount so tension shouldn't change much
Thanks for any help
Jon
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#24
by
RabbitJockey
on 21 Sep, 2011 08:44
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i finally just bought a timing tool set for myself, i got the whole kit from parts place. its a very nice set for 150 shipped, i really like their cam lock. looking back, i would just buy their cam lock and gauge adaptor and then bought my own gauge, the pump lock is really pointless except for when tightening or loosening the sprocket nut, and then u can use anything, a screwdriver even. timing with the gauge is much better, previously i was just using a door hinge in the cam and then just rotating the pump until it seemed right and drove right
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#25
by
ORCoaster
on 22 Sep, 2011 13:16
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Trev, I can't believe you spent your money that way. Here I thought you were one of the guys in the camp where if it sounds good and runs right you really don't care what the measure is. Or did you just have to know what the measure is when it is sounding right. We diesel jockeys know the pump wears and the pressure drops and the fuel is wrong for our cars so we just accept that the IP will be set different than that yellow sticker on the hood or frame.
So now that you have this little beauty what is your IP timing that does well for your setup. Everyone is different so the sticker is silly when it is 30 years old.