89 jetta 1.6 td water pump removal

[hairyhuevos]

I've been getting help from Tyler and now like to throw it out there see if i can get some more tips of how to get this thing off without having to do the timing belt, crankshaft grinding or body work since that's all there's left to do it seems. Busted some pulleys and seems i may break the intermediate pulley if not careful.
Two 10mm WP bolts can be seen throught the holes in the pulley and a third one blocked. Was able to loosen the second from the top but can't retrieve it.

below you can see my 1/4" drive stuck on an 13mm alt bracket bolt no room under the IP, will have to put bolt back to get out

stuck still



bent pulley, will try and bend back

the two WP pulleys bent out of shape

[R.O.R-2.0]

there are no water pump bolts behind the intermediate shaft pulley. there are only 4 bolts holding the water pump body to the engine.. pull the whole housing then pull the pump out of it. its way easier..

[vanagonturbo]

Actually, there are two bolts for the water pump behind the intermediate shaft pulley. Total of 8 or 9 bolts hold the water pump to the housing.

I do agree that taking it off with the housing as a complete unit though. It is much easier than taking the timing belt off. Unless you have AC and PS. In that case, its easier to take the timing belt off and get to the pump that way.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Actually, there are two bolts for the water pump behind the intermediate shaft pulley. Total of 8 or 9 bolts hold the water pump to the housing.

I do agree that taking it off with the housing as a complete unit though. It is much easier than taking the timing belt off. Unless you have AC and PS. In that case, its easier to take the timing belt off and get to the pump that way.

could be right.. ive NEVER taken out just the water pump. ive always had a spare housing, or just re-used my old housing.. its 4 bolts to take off the housing. 8 or 9 for just the pump, along with everything else..

[vanagonturbo]

No no. I am right :p I went and looked at a 1.6d before I made the post just to make sure

I do agree that replacing the housing and pump as one is best.. IF you dont have AC/PS/rustbelt.

Also, when replacing the WP only with the housing in place, ALWAYS use the aluminum/rubber gasket from a MKIII and not that stupid paper gasket that comes with the WP. The paper gasket is one of the main reasons that the 6mm bolts get seized in the housing. Coolant/water leeches through the gasket into the threads causing the corrosion.

[hairyhuevos]

Tyler has also said to take both housing and pump off as unit to ease detachment. I'm just not sure where the housing bolts are that attach it to the engine. I guess deeper crawling and more light is all it takes. If that's the case, then i don't have to touch the 10mm behind the intermediate pulley. It sure would be easier, that pulley is not easy task so far.

[BigVWman]

Being from the rust belt, the salty streets of michigan, its still easier to take the whole thing off as a unit and rework it. Unless you are the very first to remove the pump or whomever did it last was super careful with antizeeze and torque on bolts inevitably one will break if your not using heat o em and then you end up removing the whole thing anyway and fighting the broken bolt. Even with PS and AC its easier to take it out and use some gentle heat on those 8 or 9 bolts!!!

[vanagonturbo]

Oh man, yeah, if I saw a rusty car, I would definitely recommend taking off the bigger bolt stuff. I know what you mean. Rusty car needing a WP would get the housing and a new aluminum gasket. I hate working on rusty cars. I know where you are coming from (no pun).

[hairyhuevos]

i've removed alternator, p/s and its bracket which attaches to the oil pan, WP pulleys, harmonizing pulley and an assortment of nuts and bolts, car has no AC.
Pump is between alt bracket and engine and all 4 bolts go through the bracket, then pump and then the engine. Bottom ones were easy, top ones are another matter; i'll have to get a 1/4" for one of them, 3/8" too bulky. For the other i need some kind of offset wrench. 13mm socket and very small 1/4" drive allow just enough room to barely swing 5 degrees. Managed to loosen the bolt but IP is right on top and wont let wrench, socket and bolt come as one. I just don't want to fiddle with the IP, i have a golf sitting with a busted IP so ...You guys are right, seems it is better to replace housing as well since price allows it. Going the timing belt way would only allow to remove the pump plus those pulleys with the 19mm bolts are a real chore. I have never tinkered this far so it is quite the experience, your input helps a lot.

[hairyhuevos]

burn_your_money had told me exactly how to go about it but i couldn't make sense of it. Now i'm more familiar with the parts names and helps a lot. Also, having removed the p/s and its bracket and the hoses to the WP off opens it up a bit.

[burn_your_money]

Glad to hear it is coming along. Major design flaw on VWs part if you ask me.

[hairyhuevos]

True, but i can also see how attaching all those parts in a single bracket self aligns them into one plane so all i worried about is tension. So determined to get this going i'm considering skipping work.

[hairyhuevos]

pump is off and reassembled, not mounted yet. It worked out just like you guys said it would. Tyler, everything worked out just like you had said, a 1/4" u-joint adapter was all it needed to just turn it a bit and the top left bolt was off, the right one took just a little longer with a box end.
The propeller in the pump was broken into pieces, i haven't found all of the pieces so i take it they are in the system. Took the housing off altogether with the pump, one of the 10mm bolts was frozen into the housing, sawed it flush and i'll probably either drill it out of the treaded hole clean it and put a new bolt ( 8mm from my golf tailgate fits) or just drive a self tapping one in, i can see it isn't tight so it needs a fastener there. In any case, next time i'll do the housing as well. 5:45 and alarm is set for 6:15. Bugger of a job.

[smutts]

Bugger of a job sums it up nicely.
From memory, one needed to use a 3/8" socket set to get one of the bracket bolts to the left of the injection pump, and a bent/ cranked spanner to get the other bolt that holds the cast bracket to the engine, this hides behind the injection pump for your enragement. For an air-con car with power steering, I wouldn't want to play.