Ok so I'm looking at getting a car and running veg or even converting my F250. I found a nice setup on the net by a fellow named SunWizard but I didn't like the lack of safety overrides on his filtering setup. You have to filter for about 4 hours and I certainly don't plan on standing around watching it all that time. The oil is at about 180F so it is a bit of a fire hazard so I would like it to be safe. I've drawn up some plans with the safety switches. The issue is I don't know how to wire an AC relay properly/safely.
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If anyone can help with wiring (I know how to do basic house wiring but relays are new) or if anyone sees a safety feature I am missing or drew wrong please let me know.
Also, can I use the float switch in both circuits or will that cause other undesirable issues?
I'm no AC expert, but I haven't had a fire yet..
Wiring an AC relay is pretty much the same as a DC relay, other than that extra ground.. Will you be operating this at 220V or using 110v components?
The only thing I could see (and have encountered) with a float switch is the float gunking up and getting stuck.. A float that is attached to an arm, much like a fuel gauge sender, seems to give less trouble.. On my WMO/WVO furnace I had a float mounted to a rod that slid up and down though a small tube (instead of swinging on an arm like the sender), damn thing got that it stuck more than not....
It will be 110.
I was planning on using a float that is similar to one found on a sump pump.
Oh yes, that extra ground, I forgot about that guy...
Too long since my electrical classes to be able to give you really good details, but relays can fail (either closed or open) so for ultimate safety you would want 2 relays wired so that if either fails, the system shuts down. Also, make sure the relays are rated higher than your max line current. I've seen some improperly sized ones actually weld the contacts together as they attempted to open or close.
Good info, thank you. Speaking of relays, if they are rated at 30@220, what would they be rated at 110?
I was thinking of using two temperature switches as well just in case one fails closed.
If SunWizard wrote than that will be OK and he has his
http://www.burnveg.com.
For contacts well,
you must know/see on term is it NO normaly open or NC normaly close contacts as usual,only 1 manual swich is OK,term is for regulation no need for stop term,my gear pump put temp so ones get 60-80 c which is max for CF I off heater no frost when I do that of corse.
Valve 3 is for bypass ? and you have pressure release valve (mehanical?)that is OK for me but another pressure swich for safety well it`s up to you.
Term can OFF/ON heater w/o relay and pesure swich I`ll use for pump only.Why float swich?
Electric love SIMPLE ,clear as mud,need drw?
Reley is usualy marked in KW=V*I
My heater is 2 kw and that is OK.Term is usualy for 16 A but chek.
Sunwizard designed the fluid part, I added in the electronics.
I don't understand what term is
I will be using 220v heaters run at 110v just like SunWizard. I'm told this will prevent scalding the oil.
The float switch is in case I spring a leak, I would hate to have to clean up 40 gallons of oil if I can get away with cleaning up 5
I will be using 220v heaters run at 110v just like SunWizard. I'm told this will prevent scalding the oil.
Indeed, and eventually it'll sort of cook a nice crusty buildup on the element that'll burn it out.. Other nice advantage is that you can run a 220 element on 110 completely dry (crap happens) for while a while without burning it up...
And yeah, what is "term" Circuit breaker or something?
I don't understand what term is
Man it`s so easy to tolk,term=thermostat - sorry.Sun put heater otside the barrell for cost saveings?,I put inside and that isn`t 5/4" ,it`s two 10 mm hole ones,but 5/4" it`s overcomplicate and for leeks also.My therm is over top so no hole on barrell(only 2 for heater and 1/2" on BOTTOM of barrell so you have to lift barrell).Perhaps this is reason for not have overcook oil problem.
I have other barrell just for depositation (high recommendation) and from 15 cm of BOTTOM I pick oil,on bootom I drain dirt,and only THEN oil go to process tank(no complicated ha).
Perhaps is reason for 4 yr and don`t have problem with presure.If you use 2 kw heater for 220v and put on 110v you get 1 kw ,why don`t use 1 kw from begining.Temp isn`t same for 20w50 and 5w30,and I do only from 60-100 lit and than oil go to 4000 lit tank.
When I start CF I off my ADJUST thermostat.Tyler is that 120 pages Sun info you read.BEST
Most sensitive part of CF is rotor (if it`s spinner) because:
-over pressure - 90 psi max and 80c.
-don`t overtight top rotor ring nut,just do jentle
IF I be you,I will
-move presure ind just before CF
-move valve 1 close to CF,insted of val1 put "t"
From began whan temp hit 60 c,turn ON pump but open only bypass valve 3 for 1 min because pressure can go to high on start.
open slowly val 1,when slow OFF val 3 and watch pressure.
-BEFORE you off pump FIRST redirect flow from clean to dirt barrel again because with rpm drops all dirt inside CF drop.
-for pease of mind put magnet on the bottom of barrell.
If your pressure swich don`t have ON/OFF swich put same before rellay and light indicator paralel to heater.Because you have mach more thinly oil insted of my 1/2" connection use 3/4".
