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#75
by
burn_your_money
on 24 Aug, 2011 10:34
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But this is a NA pump not a TD pump, if that effects key placement
NA or TD makes no difference. 10 o'clock is correct. I got my number mixed up in my previous post. I would still try timing it 180 out on purpose because if the pump was assembled wrong this would be the result.
Is that the pump locking pin you use to set the timing? As I recall you don't have a dial indicator right?
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#76
by
grape ice cream
on 24 Aug, 2011 10:49
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ic okay
and no i do not have a dial indicator, and yea that allen wrench is holding it in place for now
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#77
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Aug, 2011 11:57
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ic okay
and no i do not have a dial indicator, and yea that allen wrench is holding it in place for now
its holding it in place temporarily, right? because that wont even get you close, compared to a real lock pin, or alteast a tight fitting deep socket..
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#78
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Aug, 2011 12:12
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I have found that a 3/4 inch carriage bolt, those kind with the flush face and square bolt like part that you use for building a fence or deck work real well. Might actually be a bit bigger than that in width.
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#79
by
guy plain
on 25 Aug, 2011 14:51
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i used a 11mm deep socket....
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#80
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Aug, 2011 14:52
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i used a 11mm deep socket....
most use a deep socket of some sort..
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#81
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Aug, 2011 20:36
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You guys must have more than one set of sockets. As soon as I stick in the 11 mm I need it someplace else. Although there are not to many places that would require it on the car now are they.
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#82
by
theman53
on 26 Aug, 2011 04:20
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I think the only place I used and 11mm socket was on the trans. I think there was a bolt on it on a sheild and then my speedo hold down is 11mm.
BUT
I have my craftsman set and if I were using the 11mm deep I would still have the 11mm shallow.
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#83
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 27 Aug, 2011 12:52
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11mm is the same as 7/16th.. so i just use the 7/16ths deep socket if i need the deep 11mm.
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#84
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Aug, 2011 20:05
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Depends on the set. My metrics seem to be wider walled than the American Sockets. Maybe I should look into that. Might get a real snug fit with something other than the carriage bolt. Although it is pretty tight, just not smooth like a socket so it jiggles around a bit more.
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#85
by
wdkingery
on 30 Aug, 2011 13:57
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i don't use any lockin device when timin?
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#86
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Aug, 2011 15:23
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i don't use any lockin device when timin?
thats just not wise..
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#87
by
ORCoaster
on 30 Aug, 2011 21:05
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Yeah, I would think with all the trouble we do have trying to get to that magic moment when it all lines up and sounds right that leaving the IP loose at the tension time would be a little risky. Maybe getting the belt at the right tension, to the half twist point doesn't put enough of a pull on the IP pulley to make it move that much.
Going to take me a longer weekend trip to Idaho this coming weekend. Paint on the Project car. Looking to surpass that 46.1 average I have going with Kingery. His average is tanking now that he played with the pump I see. Touchy lil devils they are. I did the same over the weekend and lost 2.5 mpg. Gotta stop messing with it.
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#88
by
wdkingery
on 01 Sep, 2011 12:17
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Yeah, I would think with all the trouble we do have trying to get to that magic moment when it all lines up and sounds right that leaving the IP loose at the tension time would be a little risky. Maybe getting the belt at the right tension, to the half twist point doesn't put enough of a pull on the IP pulley to make it move that much.
Going to take me a longer weekend trip to Idaho this coming weekend. Paint on the Project car. Looking to surpass that 46.1 average I have going with Kingery. His average is tanking now that he played with the pump I see. Touchy lil devils they are. I did the same over the weekend and lost 2.5 mpg. Gotta stop messing with it.
i read that and laughed out loud hard enough to cause other to take a stronger look at me LOL
i just dont .. i don't use any "lockin tools" not for the cam, pump or nothing.. i mean you don't get a "lockin tool" for the crank, but you still manage to keep that in the right spot (and you cannot even see that pulley durin timin, or at least i cannot)
i just get the cam where it's even across it's "lock spot," and then there's a mark to line the right tooth up for the pump, and then there's a mark to line up the crank.
once i have them all lined up and i get the belt on, i spin the motor 1 revolution, recheck my marks, lock the cam tensioner down, then proceed to timin the pump.
i guess i've done enough mazda timin belts that i've got a feelin for if i've got the right tooth or not.
or maybe the lockin devices are for a different procedure?
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#89
by
nathan_b
on 01 Sep, 2011 17:18
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It's not about being "on the right tooth...
timing is more sensitive than a tooth, it's in millimeters. Thats why the cam pulley has infinite adjustment when broken free and the IP is movable. Because one tooth is NOT ENOUGH.