Ultra Low Sulfur

[silentdub]

Are there any issues with running the newest Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel in the older mechanical N/A 1.5/1.6 engines?

[VWDoc91]

Just the Injector Pump leaking because the seals were acclimated to previously graded LSD. All you need to do for it is to get the pump seals replaced and re-calibrated.

[silentdub]

Well, the pump on this engine is original, so I will probably have it rebuilt or rebuild it myself. I never looked in to them, so not sure what it entails.

thanks, I'll keep this in mind when I get it rebuilt.


Does anyone know of a DIY for a rebuild or know of a place that does excellent work?

[RabbitJockey]

if its not leaking don't do anything, mine leaked from the advance lever shaft, i replaced 1 o ring and it was fine.  and i don't know that i'd blame ulsd, pumps leaked before the swap and they will afterwards too

[silentdub]

if its not leaking don't do anything, mine leaked from the advance lever shaft, i replaced 1 o ring and it was fine.  and i don't know that i'd blame ulsd, pumps leaked before the swap and they will afterwards too

Ya see that's not how I do things. If I am rebuilding the motor, I am not going to put a pump in that has been sitting for 5+ years in which I do not know the history of.

I'd rather send it out and have something that I can trust.

[bajacalal]

I know a lot of people, including myself, who experienced problems with their injection pump (which had been working fine for hundreds of thousands of miles) within a few thousand miles after the switch to ULSD.

I run a little bit of 2 stroke oil in my diesel (250 to 1 ratio, 1 oz/2 gals) to increase lubricity.

And, I thought these things didn't keep well unless properly stored. So if it's been sitting on a shelf in somebody's garage for 5 years you might to have someone go through it.

[mtrans]

I run a little bit of 2 stroke oil in my diesel (250 to 1 ratio, 1 oz/2 gals) to increase lubricity.

X 2 ,or 2-3% and don`t tach IP if you don`t have to.

[truckinwagen]

the new diesel is a much better solvent than the old stuff.

the reason you see leaks is because all the deposits filling cracks in seals, etc is washed away.

same reason you see clogged filters after switching, all the gunk in the tank comes loose and gets caught by the filter.(there was a huge rash of furnaces failing due to clogged filters when they went to ULSD for heating fuel)

its like running detergent oil in a Jimmy.

-Owen

[mtrans]

Have you see what Bio can do.Huge mess.

[RabbitJockey]

if its not leaking don't do anything, mine leaked from the advance lever shaft, i replaced 1 o ring and it was fine.  and i don't know that i'd blame ulsd, pumps leaked before the swap and they will afterwards too

Ya see that's not how I do things. If I am rebuilding the motor, I am not going to put a pump in that has been sitting for 5+ years in which I do not know the history of.

I'd rather send it out and have something that I can trust.

if it works it works haha, if ud put it on and get ***ty mileage, or poor power, or a leak, you would know its no good and only wasted a few extra moments installing a bad pump

[derekp]

Trevor - where did you get the seal for the advance mechanism.
I live near Valley Forge, pa.
Mine is leaking (I think thats what it is, cant be sure til I pull the pump)
Wondered if you could tell me how hard that seal is to do
Where to get seals/seal kit too
thanks!

[R.O.R-2.0]

Have you see what Bio can do.Huge mess.

yes, bio-d is messy crap..

especially when going from bio-d to regular-d..

400 miles is all the farther my audi made it. ran bio most of its life (well, when it was in southern oregon atleast) then i switched it to regular-d on the way home.. and didnt think about anything like that till i was home the next day and the car wouldnt start..

[RabbitJockey]

Trevor - where did you get the seal for the advance mechanism.
I live near Valley Forge, pa.
Mine is leaking (I think thats what it is, cant be sure til I pull the pump)
Wondered if you could tell me how hard that seal is to do
Where to get seals/seal kit too
thanks!

a guy locally had the o ring for me, its just an o ring, i honestly don't remember much about how it went other than that it was pretty easy u just gotta make sure u mark the shaft and lever so u can put it all back exactly where it was before or else it can effect timing.  ud probably be fine taking the old o ring to advance or napa and digging through their o rings to find the proper size.  lots of our vendors sell the full rebuild seal kits, and they are also available on ebay

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

The advance piston cover o-rings is not just an o-ring. It is a special double lip o-ring. You can find a kit on Ebay.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Diesel-VE-Injection-Pump-DGK126-Kit-w-VITON-Seal-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cba148199QQitemZ260819943833QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[dts67]

I run a little bit of 2 stroke oil in my diesel (250 to 1 ratio, 1 oz/2 gals) to increase lubricity.

X 2 ,or 2-3% and don`t tach IP if you don`t have to.

x3, the proccess of removing the sulphur apparrantly causes the diesel to loose some of its lubricity, so the myth goes lol, cars defo quieter in the morning with the extra oil.