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1991 full engine/trans 204k $250?
by
wdkingery
on 25 May, 2011 10:31
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the junkyard just picked up a 1991 diesel NA (i guess 1.6?) today. i assume it still runs, as a tree fell on it longwise and crushed it, and that's why its in the bone lot.
it's got 204,000 on the odometer.. the yard wants $150 for the motor (no alt; not sure if the IP is included in the price but my boy works there so hopefully it is) and $100 for the 5speed trans.
is it worth it? ya'll think i could find parts and rebuild? it appears to be very similar to mine, except the top of the pump has some strange thing on it.
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 May, 2011 10:43
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for those prices, i would buy them just to have cores.. thats ridiculous cheap..
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#2
by
wdkingery
on 25 May, 2011 10:55
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yeah and i thought about that too but .. what do i do with an entire engine as a core?
on the cheap note: i do have to pull it myself hahah.
i have the money but i didn't wanna spend it on ... a motor/trans that i don't even know nothing about .. i think yo uare right tho.. maybe i should go yank it
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#3
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 May, 2011 12:00
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What year is your car?? If it is 86+ every single piece of that will be transferable to yours as parts. The pump has a spaceship looking thing on it? Is it a turbo car?? The 150 would be well worth it for all the turbo stuff alone, 10 times over!
Buy it yank all the turbo stuff sell it for big money on the vortex to some kid who wants to turbo his 8v gas motor.. BIG MONEY!
Either way.. Tyhose prices are in the dirrrt they are sooo cheap!
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#4
by
Quantum TD
on 25 May, 2011 12:19
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It's worth the money output.
1) The 1991 will have a hydraulic lifter motor. They tend to hold up better than the earlier mechanical motors in terms of bore wear (at least from my experiences). The thing on top of the block is an altitude compensation device used on most USA 1.6NAs it's not an LDA (for turbo cars) but can be converted from what I hear.
2) Pass on the transmission. If it's the original trans, it will be the dreaded AWY code trans. That's a screamer of a tranny. If the code (stamped on a flat spot on the bottom of the bell-housing) is any of the following, then get it: AGS, AOP, ACH, 4S, or 7A. If it's the AWY or most any other code, you should pass.
3) Assuming the trans is a good code, you can put that motor-trans combo into any MK1-3
You can check the compression of the motor by putting a 19mm socket and ratchet on the crank and rotate it clockwise. You should feel resistance at 4 points during 2 complete revolutions. A healthy motor will want to rotate against the clockwise movement and you will have to hold the ratchet to let the compression work past the rings. If the resistance is weak, then it probably needs a bore/hone or re-ring. Even still, $150 for a complete longblock is a good deal. I buy hydro blocks at that price all the time when they hit my local pick and pull. The head alone is worth $150-200 depending on condition.
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#5
by
wdkingery
on 25 May, 2011 18:38
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Quantum you are too knowledgeable!
ok, so i'll buy the motor.
now about the trans. you said it was a screamin trans? what it turns up a whole bunch of RPM's at speed?
cause i've got my little turd i'm happy with now, but it apparently has some 300k+ miles on it .. and i cannot see either the engine or the trans lasting the infinite amount of time i'm hoping to drive it.
the trans doesn't seem like it's on it's way out at all.. it does fight a 1st gear downshift when cold (i don't do that anymore) but i baby the hell out of the whole rig i'm just hoping to prepare for the future..
so i should hold out for another manual model? from what ive been reading evidently any mk2 or 3 manual trans will fit.. but what year/model car should i keep my peepers peeled for on manual trannys?
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#6
by
Quantum TD
on 25 May, 2011 19:31
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now about the trans. you said it was a screamin trans? what it turns up a whole bunch of RPM's at speed?
Exactly. All 1990-1992 1.6NA diesels in the USA came with an AWY code trans. It has the same Ring and Pinion as just about any other MK1-2 diesel trans, but 5th gear is .89 versus .75 for all other models. It's great for around town, but pushes the RPMs too much on the highway. I had one and the best MPG I ever got before removing the trans was 39 MPG. Too much strain on the motor at speeds above about 65-68 MPH.
it does fight a 1st gear downshift when cold (i don't do that anymore) but i baby the hell out of the whole rig i'm just hoping to prepare for the future..
so i should hold out for another manual model? from what ive been reading evidently any mk2 or 3 manual trans will fit.. but what year/model car should i keep my peepers peeled for on manual trannys?
The "cold fight" to first is common on these 020 transmissions, as is grinding into 2nd when cold. I usually only downshift to first when I'm at or near a complete stop. So, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Still, it can't hurt to have a spare and I would keep an eye out for other transmissions. But you don't want that AWY.
Now, it's completely possible that someone swapped the trans and there could be a good coded trans. You'll have to check and see. The 5 I listed above are the most-common for MK2 cars, and are well-suited to the 1.6NA. If you had a turbo, I'd suggest other transmissions. But those give the best balance of torque and top end. Anything else and you may sacrifice one for the other.
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#7
by
Dakotakid
on 26 May, 2011 00:23
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I can't believe you are "wussing around" making a decision on getting this or not.
If I lived in your town....you wouldn't have had the opportunity, for it would be GONE.
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 May, 2011 11:11
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I can't believe you are "wussing around" making a decision on getting this or not.
If I lived in your town....you wouldn't have had the opportunity, for it would be GONE.
yea, for sure, that engine would have been sitting in my shop as soon as i found out they wanted 250 for it.
someone else that knows a good deal when they see one, is going to snatch that out from under you unless you make a move on it...