AAZ knocking/timing

[Big Daddy Roth]

have you checked that all the bolts are there for your injection pump bracket?

Good call. I'll check those this afternoon.

Maybe it worth mentioning that I have the later almost-tdi style AAZ pump. I mounted it to an earlier bracket that I bored out to fit the hub of the pump.

[R.O.R-2.0]

have you checked that all the bolts are there for your injection pump bracket?

Good call. I'll check those this afternoon.

Maybe it worth mentioning that I have the later almost-tdi style AAZ pump. I mounted it to an earlier bracket that I bored out to fit the hub of the pump.

doesnt the 2 piece sprocket have a DIFFERENT OFFSET than the standard pulley? i swear i read that somewhere..

[Big Daddy Roth]

doesnt the 2 piece sprocket have a DIFFERENT OFFSET than the standard pulley? i swear i read that somewhere..

Are you saying it's possible that I have the wrong belt gear on the pump? I also thought i read that somewhere.

[R.O.R-2.0]

would be pretty hard to time it if you got the wrong sprocket on there.. i think?!

im not positive, but i swear i read that the 2 piece sprocket is different offset from the 1 piece unit.. someone else should confirm/deny that..

[Big Daddy Roth]

a google search gave me this

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27624.0;wap2

[R.O.R-2.0]

a google search gave me this

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=27624.0;wap2

does your pump have elongated mounting holes?

[Big Daddy Roth]

no, my pulley does. it's one piece.

[Big Daddy Roth]

I there any other way to find TDC on a aaz?

[Big Daddy Roth]

I found this: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25013.0

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

If you are going to use the dial gauge method, then do it by approaching TDC from two directions. Because:
 1) There are a lot of 'stationary' points for the piston at TDC, and
2) bearing slop.
Thus you will get two positions for TDC which you bisect.

A better way is to bisect from either side of TDC using a dropped valve.

Best way to do this; [my invention, but I give it here for you all to use freely and including those who wish to sell it, as my overriding interest is to offer  help], is to take an old flat screwdriver, heat the end up just behind the flat area and bend slightly.
Use this to give a repeated constant 'camlobe' by pushing up to bend in screwdriver.
Use as you approach TDC on compression stroke, and remove to turn engine through TDC before reinserting. Go far enough away from TDC to ensure slackness taken up. 
Bisect the readings.

[Big Daddy Roth]

I don't believe my CAM timing is out 6*. I set all of the timing correctly once (w/ diesel fw), and haven't moved it ever. This engine has since had 2 different fw's on it. However, I have never moved the cam. Which is why bad things haven't happened.

I did last night take the VC off and check it. When I have the engine at the fw TDC, the cam is back about 1*. So, if you remember that if I set the pump back to around .6mm (using the fw tdc), it runs fine. So if I consider the fw mark to be ahead by 1* error, the 0.6mm retardation would be a reasonable measurment.

I need to find actual TDC.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I rolled it to the correct mark and rolled the pump back a little bit. This fixed my issue. Thanks.

I`ll borrow the tools and time it correctly tomorrow.

Have you corrected the *CAM* timing.  That picture I posted is not a joke...

no, the picture is NOT a joke, it can happen. and the sad thing is, that was a fairly mild explosion Libby posted up.. ive pulled apart engines with valve heads sticking thru the top of the piston..

[theman53]

I don't believe my CAM timing is out 6*. I set all of the timing correctly once (w/ diesel fw), and haven't moved it ever. This engine has since had 2 different fw's on it. However, I have never moved the cam. Which is why bad things haven't happened.

I did last night take the VC off and check it. When I have the engine at the fw TDC, the cam is back about 1*. So, if you remember that if I set the pump back to around .6mm (using the fw tdc), it runs fine. So if I consider the fw mark to be ahead by 1* error, the 0.6mm retardation would be a reasonable measurment.

I need to find actual TDC.

You need to move the cam each time you "time" the engine and tention the belt. If you changed FW then that needed done. Unless you have a degree wheel there is no way of knowing how far you are off. More than a tooth of the belt either way makes disaster happen. Crank at TDC, IP locked, cam lock in place is the only real safe mode here. For cam to crank you wouldn't even need the IP locked, but it is good measure to do so.

[Big Daddy Roth]

I set the pump where it wants to run. LOTS of HP now. This thing is gonna eat VR6's for breakfast.

[nathan_b]

I did a timing belt on a late model aaz jetta today (somehow ended up registered in the US... )

it had the 2 piece pump pulley and I timed it like you should for the 2 piece and checked it with a dial indicator and it was like 0.85, I set it to 1.00 , and it runs much better. Quiet too, just a note, don't trust that for timing to be spot on without a dial indicator.