I need a straight answer! How much boost is safe???

[Vitwagen]

Couple of things here - I have a T2 running 10psi, and can easy see over 600C EGT with NO HAZE/SOOT at all...

I have a T3 off an early mk2 and a T2 off and early AAZ (mk3 golf), they both have what I assume is the trapezoidal flange, both will fit my exhaust manifold.

I also have a KKK turbo off of a late aaz... it's about the size of a garden snail! 

PM me a decent offer if you want the T3...

[R.O.R-2.0]

if you have a haze on boost, then you have got some hot EGTs im gonna say..

you need a gauge plain and simple..

[adi]

Would you call 800degrees C too hot on a hard blast?

[theman53]

I wouldn't want to do that. If I calculated correctly that is about 1,500F aluminum melts at 1,200 F I have only taken my engine to 1,500 F one time just to see if it would slow down the EGT rise once it was hotter. It didn't and I let off.
I would say 1,200F is ver conservative and you won't melt anything down. 1,300F is reasonable and you will probably not get into trouble. 1,400F is pushing it and anything more is too much for more than .5 second.

20psi with stock gasket and stock bolts is a safe level. Over maybe fine, maybe not, but 20psi should be safe with stock stuff.

[8v-of-fury]

If you have enough fuelling to support 24psi, and still have a haze on boost.. There is going to damage done. That's wayy hot, most likely because 24psi air is hot to begin with, the ic isn't efficient enough to deal with that hot of air. I think you'd find more power with less boost, as it will be a cooler charge, therefore more air. You might even clear up the on boost haze.

[rabbitman]

1472F to be exact

That's way too high unless, like lucas said, you only do it for .5 seconds. It would still make me cringe a little.....

[adi]

Normally when its hit full boost I change gear straight away though. And when I'm in 5th giving it beans it will hit 24psi then go straight back down to like 22psi. Is this normal?

[regcheeseman]

I'd always advise no more than 15psi on a stock motor, I've seen them lift heads and start the HG weeping over 15,

A mate runs 30psi in his stocker with no problems, he's on his 3rd or 4th gearbox though.

When I sold my 30,000 mile GTD it was pegged at 15 psi, the new owner wanted more power and I told him he could up the boost but on his head be it......the truck was on ebay a month later with a blown engine. 

My new GTD will aim for 30 psi but that's got ARP studs, a metal AAZ gasket and a block girdle.

I've seen a lot of 1.6 TDs and GTDs through my workshop - only ever seen one with a K24 fitted all the rest ran T2 or K14s

[Thezorn]

I'd always advise no more than 15psi on a stock motor, I've seen them lift heads and start the HG weeping over 15,

A mate runs 30psi in his stocker with no problems, he's on his 3rd or 4th gearbox though.

When I sold my 30,000 mile GTD it was pegged at 15 psi, the new owner wanted more power and I told him he could up the boost but on his head be it......the truck was on ebay a month later with a blown engine. 

My new GTD will aim for 30 psi but that's got ARP studs, a metal AAZ gasket and a block girdle.
I've seen a lot of 1.6 TDs and GTDs through my workshop - only ever seen one with a K24 fitted all the rest ran T2 or K14s

This may be a dumb question (and off topic) but what is a block girdle supposed to do specifically?

[DJPyro]

It reinforces the main caps where the crank is held into the block. It spreads the load out to the edges of the block so you don't split your block from crazy boost. Many aluminum block engines come with them stock...

http://www.vwcaddy.com/showpost.php?s=4fb0c7b37dd6ab5bddde9eb80c866399&p=408841&postcount=18

The girdle is the big plate. I'll be doing mine when I throw ARP hardware through my motor. I was amazed to see the 1.9 has floating 2-bolt mains, I thought they'd at least be wedged to the edges of the block...

[regcheeseman]

Cheers for the link, 

They are also here I have a couple left and then no more.

[Thezorn]

It reinforces the main caps where the crank is held into the block. It spreads the load out to the edges of the block so you don't split your block from crazy boost. Many aluminum block engines come with them stock...

http://www.vwcaddy.com/showpost.php?s=4fb0c7b37dd6ab5bddde9eb80c866399&p=408841&postcount=18

The girdle is the big plate. I'll be doing mine when I throw ARP hardware through my motor. I was amazed to see the 1.9 has floating 2-bolt mains, I thought they'd at least be wedged to the edges of the block...

Ahh that sorta what I figured. thanks for the info

Cheers for the link, 

They are also here I have a couple left and then no more.

How fast is the shipping usually take to canada reg? If you have snet one here before that is
Has it been tested on an AAZ yet for fitment? I think this might be nessesary for my compound build..

[regcheeseman]

How fast is the shipping usually take to canada reg? If you have snet one here before that is
Has it been tested on an AAZ yet for fitment? I think this might be nessesary for my compound build..

Never sent to Canada - to the US it was there inside 5 working days
It fits the AAZ fine, some fitments  (TDI - ALH I think) have needed a light tickle with a grinder on the web around the oil pump, but nothing major.

Seven have been shipped out of the ten made and that has been the only fitment issue that I am aware of.

Also be aware that the girdles are straight from the laser cutter with no extra cleanup, they may have rough edges and small pieces of slag from the cutting process, so may need a slight clean up if that kind of thing is important to you. This is reflected in the price - you could pay 2 or 3 times more for a shiney finished one.