Clutch replacement in 1.9 AAZ TD - 82 Vanagon

[Gizmoman]

I have a sweet 82 VW westy that was originally a 1.6 non turbo.
The previous owner did a fairly tidy install of a 1.9 AAZ and swapped the stock low geared transmission for a four speed gasser.

I bought the van from a third party and don't have contact with the guy who did all the work - so no idea what clutch is in it now.
I can tell that it won't be long before I need to replace the clutch (getting closer and closer to the top of the travel).

Does anyone have some ideas as to what is required and recommendations as to:
1. What is the best type/brand to get?
2. What else should be replaced
3. any other "tips" are welcome

I am looking for a real strong unit as the one that was in it when I bought it didn't take long to wear out. I am running 15 lbs of boost and plan on increasing the tire diameter to lower the revs (don't kill me about the 15 psi - I don't keep it there for long). This will put additional load on the clutch and I want to get something that will last.
Wish I knew what is in it now but all I know is it's not tough enough.

I'm planning a trip from San Diego to Rochester in September and this clutch will never make it.


Thanks

[Syncroincity]

Wow, that's quite a road trip!

Depends on what's in there now, there's a few options,
-Stock DV flywheel/clutch
-TDI or G60 flywheel/VR6 clutch (228mm)
-TDI flywheel/TDI clutch/adaptor input shaft (unlikely)

The TDI flywheel bolts right in, same overall diameter, but the clutch face is larger and accepts a larger diameter friction disk, and beefier clutches are avilable in that size...
Avoid OEM dual-mass TDI flywheels, very expensive, you can get a single-mass (solid) wheel much cheaper. Modification is required to the dust shield to use.
Gasser Vanagon 228mm clutch disc is compatible with stock DV input shaft splines.
TDI clutch disc requires use of special adpator input shaft with TDI spline pattern

Be sure to replace the needle-bearing pilot in the center of the flywheel that takes the input shaft point.

I have a spare Sachs genuine German, brand-new stock DV clutch setup I'll sell to you, I went with a TDI setup.

[Gizmoman]

Wow, that's quite a road trip!

Depends on what's in there now, there's a few options,
-Stock DV flywheel/clutch
-TDI flywheel/VR6 clutch (228mm)
-TDI flywheel/TDI clutch/adaptor input shaft (unlikely)

The TDI flywheel bolts right in, same overall diameter, but the clutch face is larger and accepts a larger diameter friction disk, and beefier clutches are avilable in that size...
Avoid OEM dual-mass TDI flywheels, very expensive, you can get a single-mass (solid) wheel much cheaper. Modification is required to the dust shield to use.
VR6 clutch disc is compatible with stock DV input shaft splines, TDI clutch disc requires use of special adpator input shaft with TDI spline pattern

Be sure to replace the needle-bearing pilot in the center of the flywheel that takes the input shaft point.

I have a spare Sachs genuine German, brand-new stock DV clutch setup I'll sell to you, I went with a TDI setup.

Not knowing what the PO put in there, it's hard to say if what your offering is better or not. All I know is that I've only put about 2k on it since I bought it and the clutch (pedal travel) has changed significantly. I can only assume that the thing was crap to begin with or at best, stock.
Assuming I went with the Sachs, apparently I will need the spline adapter? A larger flywheel?

I am a bit confused.

How much for the Sachs?
As I said in my original post, I am really looking for a clutch with some heft as I will be changing to larger diameter tire/wheels and will need to slip it from time to time to get the breadbox rolling.

Thanks for replying - As you are the only response I've had in three days on several forums - I was thinking I had BO or something 

[Luckypabst]

Have you checked the fluid level at the master cylinder? A leaking slave cylinder will cause a significant change in the point of pedal swing where the clutch disengages.

Chris

[blackdogvan]

You can use the 228mm vanagon clutch disk with the G60 flywheel & VR6 pressure plate for a great option that's way stronger than any tq your AAZ is likely to throw at it. Wee bit overkill.

[Syncroincity]

The Sachs set I have is stock diesel vanagon, most likely exactly what you have in there now... not an upgrade, just replacement to new. Sorry for the info overload it's only the TDI setup that needs any modification. Blackdog has the right recipe for the VR6 setup, (228mm gasser Vanagon clutch disc, G60 or single-mass TDI flywheel, VR6 pressure plate). Don't go nuts with the pressure plate though, as the friction & clamp force goes up, it gets harder to drive and engage the clutch smoothly without chatter or grabbing.

If your pedal feels different than a few days ago, you need to check the hydraulics. The slave's a b*tch to change, but it's usually the first to go.

[Gizmoman]

All excellent info - I'll check the slave tomorrow. Maybe I'll get hung up under there and won't have to do Easter with the inlaws 
Anyone have any luck with the KEP (Kennedy Engineered Products) clutch kits? I think they offer some pretty robust stuff.

Thanks for all the info - you guys are great.

[Syncroincity]

When I replaced my slave cylinder, I had a helluva time getting it to bleed right, I ended up making a pressure cap for the resevoir, and pumping it up with my mity-vac, then pressure-bleeding the cylinder. A lot of running back & forth, helps to have a buddy.

[bridgetroll13]

I have n '82 Westy that I put an AAZ into (it's stock other than 1st oversize pistons due to bore wear). The turbo puts out a tick under 10psi at full boost. I'm running 215/75 15's and have an AAP 5 speed tranny which has a particularly low numerical final drive.

I'm running the stock diesel Vanagon clutch and haven't had any problem other than I had to replace it a while back due to normal wear.

I found for bleeding that a trick someone on another diesel board suggested was to put a hose (emptying into a catch bottle) on the bleeder, open it up and then go have a cup of coffee. This allows the bubbles to float right out of the top of the cylinder into the hose. No pumping, no muss, no fuss. I was astonished how well it worked. I did discover that putting dino grease in the slave boot to keep the push-rod lubed and the water out is a bad idea . It ate the seal and I had to replace it far sooner than it otherwise would have failed.

Erik