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Valve cover gasket upgrade question
by
camboscams
on 16 Apr, 2011 08:37
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So i'm finally tired of pouring oil into my engine and its time to upgrade. My only two questions are do the factory studs simply unscrew? and will the rubber upgrade kit fit a 1.5l?
Thank you for your time,
Cambo
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#1
by
theman53
on 16 Apr, 2011 09:20
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If you never plan on using the studs again they will unscrew with a pair of vice grips firmly fixed on them. You can double nut them too, or weld a nut on.
I was going to vice grip the shouldered part, but didn't want to scratch the gasket surface.
Should fit the 1.5 fine, I think they all have the same valve cover gasket if it has 8 valves.
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#2
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 16 Apr, 2011 11:51
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So i'm finally tired of pouring oil into my engine and its time to upgrade. My only two questions are do the factory studs simply unscrew? and will the rubber upgrade kit fit a 1.5l?
Thank you for your time,
Cambo
if the 1.5 still has original non shouldered studs, then the ABA gasket will fit with no other modifications..
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#3
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 16 Apr, 2011 13:11
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Check if you have the valve cover baffle.
If you can see a cam lobe when you remove oil cap - you don't have one. If not - get one while you're at it. $5-6.
I've had some studs that came out with fingers.
Most need double nutting.
And some have to be heated.
One car i did took me about 2 hours just to get the studs out.
5-6 of the 8 had to be heated with propane torch.
It will be a nice gift if you already have strait studs on your 1.5
FYI you can get a Fel-Pro 1pc. rubber gasket at AdvanceAuto or AutoZone for about $12-13. Application is 95 Golf/Jetta gasser. No shipping/no waiting - if that helps.
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#4
by
camboscams
on 16 Apr, 2011 19:32
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No i’m pretty sure that they do have shoulders.
but that answers all of my questions. thanks fellas! so long leaky valve cover gasket!
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#5
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 16 Apr, 2011 20:01
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Use some blue loctite on your new studs.
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#6
by
SR Heer
on 08 Oct, 2011 11:37
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no need to take sholdered studs out for rubber metal reinforced ABA valve cover gasket - $20 Voctor Reinz 051-103-483 A to fit - just punch out the aluminum inserts there where the sholders ride on rubber gasket with 10mm 12pt socket and punch and it then fits perfect over sholdered stud - really works great and easily done
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#7
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 08 Oct, 2011 12:03
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most of the gaskets ive dealt with, had a metal internal core, not just the inserts where the studs go thru..
that means no removing the round metal inserts on these gaskets. more often than not, its easier to just get the right studs.
ive also used allen head bolts before with good success..
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#8
by
sdwarf36
on 08 Oct, 2011 14:21
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yea-you dont want to remove the steel grommets-they are there to act as a stop to keep the gasket from deforming.
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#9
by
camboscams
on 08 Oct, 2011 16:11
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Yea i changed the studs to the shoulderless studs and so far this is the first time my engine has been leak free! no oil spots on the driveway anymore!!!
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#10
by
SR Heer
on 08 Oct, 2011 17:33
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Ok - the Victor Rienz that I bought is metal reinforced throughout not just with or at metal gromet area ( where it fastens down to top of head ) like what is typically mentioned for G60 valve cover gaskets. With gromets punched out gasket fits nice and snug around studs for 1.6D - no problems - easy fix for me
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#11
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 08 Oct, 2011 17:44
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One tip, is to use thin washers on top of the steel girder. The reason being that the shoulderless studs are about one thread too long on the unthreaded part, which makes the nut bind before correct clamping.
I suppose the valve cover on the engine the all-in-ones come from are thicker. This washer stops the stud coming out with the nut...
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#12
by
damac
on 09 Oct, 2011 06:12
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It took me a while to get those studs out of mine. Was surprised to see a couple so tight my first bite with vice grips resulted in dust. Then I took my time as there isn't a ton of room to work.
On another note I upgraded with a nice name brand kit, installed the studs AND got a g60 cover and I still have a dribble build up at the back right side!!! I tried it once with no sealant and tightened the bolts from inside/out. Drove it for a week then tightened down a tad and still leaked. Then I tried it again with each side hit with a spray of copper gasket and now it still does the same! I don't get it. I read about not torquing the hell out of them so I didn't and don't want to smash it. With everything apart I have tried to look for the obvious dings in the metal mating area but am not seeing it.
Absolutely sucks for me, I can't tell how much oil I'm actually burning because of it.