Funny spot - Inj pump leak

[Baron VonZeppelin]

My Inj Pump has been sitting around for days on the bench after i resealed it.

I primed/filled it with fuel a few days ago on a whim.
And have let it sit in several different strategic positions to see how its holding the juice.

Its leaking from a funny spot - that i've never fooled with before.
Here's a picture ... it seems like its leaking around these threads.



In the breakdown diagram - it looks like this nut is locking a tapered/beveled rod-shaft in place. And there is an o-ring and sealing washer involved behind the locknut.

Is this a "no-touch" item , "sensitive adjustment" , or "delicate-touch" kind of thing ?? Or just a simple R&R ?

I've scribed it to mate with the timing pointer on crown of pump.

Any help or tips VERY appreciated.

[Quantum TD]

Are you sure it's leaking there? I've had pumps that I rebuilt put on a shelf in the garage. I filled them to the brim with ATF. Well, it leaked out of the banjo bolt (IN bolt) and it looked like it was leaking out of that seal. I RARELY see that seal leak. It's one of the last to go.

You do need to make markings on the nut and the shaft end to keep the refernce. I use some tiny cut-off wheels (diamond coated metal) that I get at Harbor Freight for like $4. Dremel makes something similar. Paint markings will wash off, so i just cut a slight slit into the end of the shaft and the nut. If you're careful, you might be able to pull out the shaft just enough to pry out the seal, and not lose the governor pieces. Unlikely, but perhaps worth a shot.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Thanks guys.  ^5

I'll triple check it again.

But its seeming for sure to come through the threads between the shaft and the locknut. It even accumulates inside of allen head (or torx) recess of the end of the shaft a little bit

At first it almost seemed like it was coming out of that recess on the end of the governor shaft. lol
But that seemed impossible.

Not looking forward to goofing with those throttle springs again.
I found a way to make it easier using an allen wrench as a stop/holder - and already forgot what i did now.

It'll come back to me with some fiddling.

[ToddA1]

Hmmmm....  I think you may be able to replace that o-ring without removing the cover.  Not that it's a lot of work to get the cover off, but I do think it's doable.  I just looked at a pump on the table that's 100% torn down.

That Allen headed screw is pretty long and it slides into a hollow pin.  The hollow pin is what keeps the flyweight assembly together.  Just back it out enough to get to the o-ring and replace it.  On my pump it's reverse threads; not sure if they changed it with the later pumps.

Your call....

-Todd

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Did it earlier today.
Used Libby's advice. Safer than Sorrier.

It could have been done just as well leaving the top cover in place.
That is .. on this particular style pump (89 with altitude aneroid / TD lookalike).

But logged some more experience on those pesky throttle springs and honed my skills, nonetheless.

Twas right hand threads (normal) on that shaft and locknut.
After locknut was removed - i took count of the exposed threads on the shaft as another precaution.

Shaft didn't have to back out very far to get to the o-ring.
Didn't take the shaft "out".
Nothing made any movements.

Refilled pump to the brim with MightyVac and its been several hours, staying dry so far.
Lunchtime tomorrow should tell the outcome.

After i do an aneroid seal on one, i should be an expert resealer.
Might even go into the business ! 

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Its holding the juice just fine now.

btw - i used one of the nice Green o-rings on that spot.