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MK1 rabbit turbo build!
by
monomer
on 01 Apr, 2011 19:42
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I've been collecting parts for this rabbit for a couple years now, and have lost a lot of links, and missed a lot of good posts.
Parts sofar:
-Gapless Rings
-Kolbenschmit TD pistons
-Block overbored for above pistons
-Big oil pump
-Oil filter assembly with extra port
-Crankcase windage tray
-ARP hardware for head, mains and rods
-Resized rods, arps installed
-Upgraded mains bearings
-T3 8v manifold exhaust.
-T3, 52 mm (I think....) from M-B 300d
-G60 Intake
-DSM side stock side mount IC
-A-S Exhaust temp gauge, probe
Right now, next in the works is a 1.9 IP, adding Oil squirters (already purchased) and MLS head gasket. Possibly a 1.9 head.
After that, Giles superpump and meth injection. After that - body work and suspension/wheels.
It's gonna be an autocross/ road rally car, I feel as if I'm missing a few parts here....
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#1
by
rallydiesel
on 01 Apr, 2011 20:42
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Why are you doing the 1.9 IP? Why not just put the 1.9 camplate in the 1.6 IP and retain the adjustability of the 1.6 pump.
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#2
by
Powered by Spearco
on 01 Apr, 2011 21:29
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Kind of sounds like my engine build except for the pump. Gonna be bad A$$.
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#3
by
nathan_b
on 01 Apr, 2011 21:53
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1.9 head is worth is, with my k14 and straight exhaust I have the stock 1.6td pump as high as it can go, smoke screw in all the way, idling at 1100, low as it goes, star wheel like 1/4inch AWAY from the spring so and boost gives full boost fueling. Not a speck of dark smoke, only a light haze, tons of power, egts super low, can't get it above 1100 running wot up a hill at 80mph for 3 min, mild gov mod, 2.25in straight dp, fantastic little bugger, at max fueling tune I get 40mpg on my mixed commute of 15 miles
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#4
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 02 Apr, 2011 08:24
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1.9 head is worth is, with my k14 and straight exhaust I have the stock 1.6td pump as high as it can go, smoke screw in all the way, idling at 1100, low as it goes, star wheel like 1/4inch AWAY from the spring so and boost gives full boost fueling. Not a speck of dark smoke, only a light haze, tons of power, egts super low, can't get it above 1100 running wot up a hill at 80mph for 3 min, mild gov mod, 2.25in straight dp, fantastic little bugger, at max fueling tune I get 40mpg on my mixed commute of 15 miles
you do know that all you have to do to get your fuel screw to go in farther without becoming the idle adjustment?
turn your accelerator arm 1 spline CCW on the splines of the throttle shaft..
then you can adjust your idle, and turn the max fuel screw in a couple more turns..
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#5
by
monomer
on 02 Apr, 2011 14:09
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Why are you doing the 1.9 IP? Why not just put the 1.9 camplate in the 1.6 IP and retain the adjustability of the 1.6 pump.
1.9TD pumps are easier to find?
Depends on what I end up finding, I suppose. It's going to giles for tuning regardless.
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#6
by
nathan_b
on 02 Apr, 2011 16:20
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1.9 head is worth is, with my k14 and straight exhaust I have the stock 1.6td pump as high as it can go, smoke screw in all the way, idling at 1100, low as it goes, star wheel like 1/4inch AWAY from the spring so and boost gives full boost fueling. Not a speck of dark smoke, only a light haze, tons of power, egts super low, can't get it above 1100 running wot up a hill at 80mph for 3 min, mild gov mod, 2.25in straight dp, fantastic little bugger, at max fueling tune I get 40mpg on my mixed commute of 15 miles
you do know that all you have to do to get your fuel screw to go in farther without becoming the idle adjustment?
turn your accelerator arm 1 spline CCW on the splines of the throttle shaft..
then you can adjust your idle, and turn the max fuel screw in a couple more turns..
yeah, throttle arm rotated, accelerator stop thing on throttle arm adjusted for lowest idle.
I guess I am as far as I can go without actual pump mods and not adjustment. And I still need to intercool..
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#7
by
macka
on 02 Apr, 2011 16:24
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Why are you doing the 1.9 IP? Why not just put the 1.9 camplate in the 1.6 IP and retain the adjustability of the 1.6 pump.
1.9TD pumps are easier to find?
Depends on what I end up finding, I suppose. It's going to giles for tuning regardless.
You cross the bridge or go through the tunnel into windsor and you have 1.9 parts galor
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#8
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 02 Apr, 2011 18:51
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1.9 head is worth is, with my k14 and straight exhaust I have the stock 1.6td pump as high as it can go, smoke screw in all the way, idling at 1100, low as it goes, star wheel like 1/4inch AWAY from the spring so and boost gives full boost fueling. Not a speck of dark smoke, only a light haze, tons of power, egts super low, can't get it above 1100 running wot up a hill at 80mph for 3 min, mild gov mod, 2.25in straight dp, fantastic little bugger, at max fueling tune I get 40mpg on my mixed commute of 15 miles
you do know that all you have to do to get your fuel screw to go in farther without becoming the idle adjustment?
turn your accelerator arm 1 spline CCW on the splines of the throttle shaft..
then you can adjust your idle, and turn the max fuel screw in a couple more turns..
yeah, throttle arm rotated, accelerator stop thing on throttle arm adjusted for lowest idle.
I guess I am as far as I can go without actual pump mods and not adjustment. And I still need to intercool..
no, your not turned up as far as the pump allows you to be unless your governor hangs.. i had to back my fuel screw out a little, and i still had idle adjustment left. i rotated it 2 splines CCW.. i gots lots of fuel now..
you got more left in the pump if you have the idle adjust backed all the way out and you have to set the idle with the fuel screw..
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#9
by
nathan_b
on 02 Apr, 2011 21:33
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will give this another go at moving splines on the throttle lever, was hoping this wasn't all the stock pump had in her,
thanks,
didn't mean to mini hijack OP, my bad
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#10
by
monomer
on 04 Apr, 2011 19:44
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will give this another go at moving splines on the throttle lever, was hoping this wasn't all the stock pump had in her,
thanks,
didn't mean to mini hijack OP, my bad
Hey, I learned something. It's all good.
Need to come up with a fuller list of everything I have to post up. I know theirs more laying about.
So, right now the main things are: IP, Head, IC plumbing, DP/exhaust, FMIC and getting the 421k mile t3 rebuilt....
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#11
by
deepgrooves74
on 08 Apr, 2011 04:15
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This all sounds similar to my build! A1 Rabbit (have to say it that way these days with the new imposter that came out a couple of years ago...)
I have a solid lifter motor though... not 'til after I built her did I know that Hydro was the way to go... trying to get a metal gasket for the motor, but I haven't found anything yet... ARP head studs(12mm)... I have Kobelschmidt .40 as well... running GTD injectors, stock head, TT 2.25 DP, 2.25 back no muffler, air to water IC. I (for now) am running the stock turbo that I have. Already tapped the exhaust mani for Egt sensor, and I am looking for a water/meth inj set-up to spray into the intake runners... I have several a1 intake manis that I am considering using, and welding on a flange for my IC tubing. Also I have a IC external sprayer as well that is computer controlled based on engine compartment temps, IC temps, and Load (which I am going to turn into an OT switched circuit that I am having Giles set-up for me...
I am very interested in your build... looking forward to see your progress... I started mine on Vortex...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4056111-My-83-Rabbit-TD-SVO-Build
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#12
by
monomer
on 08 Apr, 2011 15:50
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This all sounds similar to my build! A1 Rabbit (have to say it that way these days with the new imposter that came out a couple of years ago...)
I have a solid lifter motor though... not 'til after I built her did I know that Hydro was the way to go... trying to get a metal gasket for the motor, but I haven't found anything yet... ARP head studs(12mm)... I have Kobelschmidt .40 as well... running GTD injectors, stock head, TT 2.25 DP, 2.25 back no muffler, air to water IC. I (for now) am running the stock turbo that I have. Already tapped the exhaust mani for Egt sensor, and I am looking for a water/meth inj set-up to spray into the intake runners... I have several a1 intake manis that I am considering using, and welding on a flange for my IC tubing. Also I have a IC external sprayer as well that is computer controlled based on engine compartment temps, IC temps, and Load (which I am going to turn into an OT switched circuit that I am having Giles set-up for me...
I am very interested in your build... looking forward to see your progress... I started mine on Vortex...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4056111-My-83-Rabbit-TD-SVO-Build
NICE idea with the engine stand. I might steal that.
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#13
by
deepgrooves74
on 26 Nov, 2013 18:49
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I've been collecting parts for this rabbit for a couple years now, and have lost a lot of links, and missed a lot of good posts.
Parts sofar:
-Gapless Rings
-Kolbenschmit TD pistons
-Block overbored for above pistons
-Big oil pump
-Oil filter assembly with extra port
-Crankcase windage tray
-ARP hardware for head, mains and rods
-Resized rods, arps installed
-Upgraded mains bearings
-T3 8v manifold exhaust.
-T3, 52 mm (I think....) from M-B 300d
-G60 Intake
-DSM side stock side mount IC
-A-S Exhaust temp gauge, probe
Right now, next in the works is a 1.9 IP, adding Oil squirters (already purchased) and MLS head gasket. Possibly a 1.9 head.
After that, Giles superpump and meth injection. After that - body work and suspension/wheels.
It's gonna be an autocross/ road rally car, I feel as if I'm missing a few parts here....
where is this build? Did you ever finish it? Just curious how it all turned out!
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#14
by
monomer
on 04 Dec, 2013 17:52
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Nope. I wanted to DD the car so it got a n/a put back in, only to have the stock clutch go 40 miles later (my fault for not checking) That trans is solid, I put in a spec stage 3.5 6puck (brutal) and then put it down for winter, just after buying new rubber for it's OEM bottlecaps.
In the process I've collected a few parts: Evo8 FMIC, Different 1.6TD block (mk2 ecodiesel), stock 1.6TD turbo setup (from Whitbreads shop) along with a DP.
Whats left: Pump, Head, intakes bits and some fab. Need to also strip that block and get it punched out. Send the cam out for regrind.
I'm also having a bit of a problem with the shifter linkage setup, needs a few new bushing and shifter base not included in the USRT kit. 1st and reverse were right ontop of another: I almost got me a brand new dodge charger on the test drive!
Time and money. Doing it right aint cheap!