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THE JETTA LIVES!
by
wdkingery
on 01 Apr, 2011 17:02
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ok guys so i've moved forward a bit on my jetta.. only a bit.
chased down the brakes.. needed all new everything; only thing it didn't get was that funky load sensing proportioning valve (which i'm sure will crap out now that i've done all but the lines) turns out it was a bent brake pad causing the soft pedal??
anyway,
i've failed state safety inspection for a few rotted floor pans and a FUEL LEAK. and you know where it's leakin .. tween the head and the body of the IP. i'm headed out to check the compression here in just a second, and assuming that's good (PLEASE GOD LET THIS BE ONE THING I WIN ON THIS CAR) i'm fixin to buy a reman unit. the thing doesn't run well anyway.
so i've found that thedieselstore.com has an IP for 414 plus around $25 shipped? seems pretty good anyone know about why i shouldn't do that or a better place to find one? i've heard of the giles pumps but ... at least another $300 is scaring me off.
what about fuel injectors? i've found this guy
www.hansdieselparts.com but a local guy said don't buy nothin from him cause he's a hack; bought an IP from him and had to send 2 out and neither worked .. ended up just being a goose chase. (he does offer rebuilt pumps for like $280!) but he's got fuel injectors for seemingly cheap.. sayin to put mercedes in as an "upgrade" ...?? $55 for all four.
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/DN0SD265MercedesNozle.htmanyone know where to get the injectors? or should i? if i can get them for $55 i'm in; if they are $55 a piece i'll .. probably just die
any help would be great
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#1
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 01 Apr, 2011 17:13
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hans diesel, AKA Prothe, sells JUNK..
if you want your injection pump to work, dont buy one from him..
all of his items are less than superb quality..
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#2
by
nathan_b
on 01 Apr, 2011 17:37
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reseal the Ip on the car, an hour or two and shes good to go for a few more years.. cost $50.
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#3
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 01 Apr, 2011 18:54
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There had been some decent feedback about prothes $25 injectors in the past. But a member here just ordered a set ... bad joke.
Real goofy parts
You don't want or need MBenz nozzles in a stock VW engine.
For $55 - all you get are the 4 nozzles.
Not 4 complete injectors.
Can still get new genuine Bosch / VW nozzles for about $15 each.
The o-ring/seal where your inj pump is leaking is $3-5.
You can replace it on the car if you are a good smart wrench.
A whole kit is about $20
Don't think i've ever heard of the dieselstore.com
Might be another one of Prothes websites.
He has about 7-10 dotcoms
500 psi per cylinder is like new
400 is decent to drive
300 is weak and dying
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#4
by
wdkingery
on 01 Apr, 2011 19:27
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ok so hans is PROTHE! i have seen all the bad stuff about prothe but i didn't know he was hans. now i too have a throw down on hans. i got to the second cylinder in the compression test tonight and the $20 compression gauge i got from him broke (puke) it won't release the pressure when you push the little button.
i need to change the title of this thread to "the jetta is NOT still alive"
the compression test did not go well. i got 200 psi on three cylinders? 400 on one! yay! almost passing!
so i did a valve clearance check and there could be some hope.. not even the smallest blade on the autozone special would go thru. spec is like .. at least .2mm; i even couldn't get the .038mm to go under but one lobe (the exhaust on the 400 psi cylinder)
ALSO. ugh this made me sick. the injectors were pure hell to get out. they broke loose, turned a half turn cleanly, and then DID NOT WANNA COME OUT. i was quite positive i destroyed the threads on the head. i sprayed them down with PB Blaster, and turned them back and forth but ... to no avail. it did help, but .. not near what i needed. well, i did get the compression gauge fitting to pull 400psi on the one cylinder so.. maybe the threads aren't gone after all.
finally, here's a photo of each hole.. what's wrong with the first one? i guess the injector is dead?
By
wdkingery at 2011-04-01
By
wdkingery at 2011-04-01
By
wdkingery at 2011-04-01
By
wdkingery at 2011-04-01
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#5
by
rabbitman
on 01 Apr, 2011 20:38
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Wow, that hole has issues!......My guess is the injector heatshield leaked and exhaust gasses/unburnt fuel got by and hardened. Not sure what to clean it with but make sure you get it good, also the heatshield seat needs to be flat.
I'd fix the bad valve clearance before worrying too much.
Awhile back a guy brought me a fourwheeler to fix and it would start hard and would NOT idle at all until warm so I messed around forever checking little things, compression was less than 100 psi and should've been 170ish.
Finally I checked valves clearance, one of them (can't 'member which valve) was tight, it took a good half a turn on the rocker screw to loosen it. After that it started perfect, idled perfect and "might" have had more power too.
Just did a check on thedieselstore, the phone # is the same as midwest fuel injection.
I bought a rebuilt injector pump from them in March '07, by October '07 after only 12,000 miles the input shaft bushings were shot and the t-belt was starting to hang off the IP pulley a bit so I sent it back "under warranty".
They thought I'd tightened the belt too much so I had to pay $95 (after I complained and got it lowered) and got it fixed. That time the bushings lasted a little over a year after which I changed them myself. The pump is still going about 30,000 miles later.
Actually, here's the thread from that problem:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=10743.0My opinion of them is that the have good customer service and are pretty nice to deal with but the quality of their work is not very good. My rabbit ran good with their pump though.......
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#6
by
wdkingery
on 01 Apr, 2011 21:12
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aww come'on! i thought we had a winner here with mwfi/thedieselstore! i was willin to swallow the $414 (assumin i make it thru tomorrow's valve adjustments and bring up a good compression test)
so i guess i am now down to:
is
www.thedieselstore.com the way to go?
any anyone passin by cares to pass judgment on that #1 cylinder hole would be helpful, as ik hep geen idee what's going on there..
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#7
by
rabbitman
on 01 Apr, 2011 21:24
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Do you know of anywhere or anyone nearby who can reseal it? Do some searches about rebuilding 'em, you might decide it's something you can do yourself. Just take lots (LOTS) of pictures of everything.
There's a good chance fixing the valve clearance will fix the running problem. If the threads in that hole look good after you clean it and the injector screws in good then use it.
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#8
by
bajacalal
on 01 Apr, 2011 21:59
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Call around to places that service diesel fuel injection systems... There should be one somewhere near you, check the phone book, google, whatever. You might find it's cheaper to have them fix your pump or and rebuild/test your injectors than to buy another one.
They are going to be geared towards big trucks and heavy equipment but that shouldn't matter, it's all Bosch stuff in a lot of things, my pickup truck, for example, has the same pump as my VW... well, almost the same.
My VW runs noticeably better since the last valve adjustment and it was only like .002". off.
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#9
by
dodger21
on 02 Apr, 2011 08:08
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Baja, have a 1st Gen? I wish I never got rid of mine...
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#10
by
bajacalal
on 02 Apr, 2011 15:22
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Yeah, I bought it last summer- 1992 4x4, LE extra cab, 5 speed, long bed... I like it and it's served me well so far.
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#11
by
dodger21
on 02 Apr, 2011 15:54
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If you want to liven it up a bit, let me know. There is a website just like this one with some really knowledgeable people.
1stgen.org
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#12
by
Quantum TD
on 02 Apr, 2011 17:11
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I had a TD motor that had the same issue with the injectors. One heat-shield was completely missing, and 2 of the injectors were so badly coked, that I really had to work them back and forth to get them out. In the end, I had to chase the threads with a bottom-tap to clean up the holes, and one was still a bit less-tahn-ideal, though the injectors still threaded and torqued in there oK.
My guess is that your low compression on some cylinders is likely due to carbon buildup on the rings. If you let those cylinders (and or all of them) soak in a bath of kerosene for about 2-3 weeks (keep topping it off, because it will bleed into the pan). Then, after three weeks, blow it out by cranking the car with the injectors out. Finally, drain the oil and put in fresh oil and filter. I'm willing to bet your compression numbers come up the "drivable" range.
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#13
by
wdkingery
on 02 Apr, 2011 17:55
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I had a TD motor that had the same issue with the injectors. One heat-shield was completely missing, and 2 of the injectors were so badly coked, that I really had to work them back and forth to get them out. In the end, I had to chase the threads with a bottom-tap to clean up the holes, and one was still a bit less-tahn-ideal, though the injectors still threaded and torqued in there oK.
My guess is that your low compression on some cylinders is likely due to carbon buildup on the rings. If you let those cylinders (and or all of them) soak in a bath of kerosene for about 2-3 weeks (keep topping it off, because it will bleed into the pan). Then, after three weeks, blow it out by cranking the car with the injectors out. Finally, drain the oil and put in fresh oil and filter. I'm willing to bet your compression numbers come up the "drivable" range.
the first flippin valuable comment all day.
seems like a plan, altho it's a 1 month long plan.
moreover, after i did the compression check, and a valve clearance check, and changing the valve clearances as close as possible (shim stock was limited, and god were the clearances bad,) now the damn thing won't start. i guess i ran the pump dry when i disconnected the fuel lines.
any input on that?
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#14
by
nathan_b
on 02 Apr, 2011 18:21
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Yeah, connect the fuel lines, lol, gotta bleed the air out of the system.