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#45
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2011 20:30
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the mitsubishi turbo is smaller than the t3 and k24, i don't think he'll have any trouble spooling it
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#46
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2011 21:28
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also found this:
T3 compressor wheel
6 blades
Part number: 409096-0010
Wheel diameter mm (A)60,00
Inducer diameter mm (B) 35,40
Tip height mm (C) 3,00
Wheel bore diameter 6,00
TRIM 35
Or this boosted from jake
Check it out... A blow-up parts diagram with parts numbers for the 1.6lTD Garrett TA0304B is available on-line here and specs on the compressors are available here, and turbine wheels here. Referencing the appropriate part numbers to these tables, and using the measurements I took directly from the guts of the 1.6lTD KKK turbo, we can compare these turbos more closely...
garrett compressor:
blades: 6
wheel diameter: 60.00mm
inducer bore: 35.40mm
tip height: 3.00mm
kkk compressor:
blades: 6 major, 6 minor (12 total)
wheel diameter: 60.5mm
inducer bore: 37.5mm
tip height: 4mm
findings: nearly identical compressor wheel OD means pressure ratio capability of the two are about equal. However, ~6% larger inducer bore of the KKK means it can flow a bit more air. There is also a very significantly greater tip height with the KKK turbo (33% greater on the KKK).
garrett turbine:
blades: 11
wheel diameter: 59.00 mm
exducer bore diameter: 49.00mm
kkk turbine:
blades: 12
wheel diameter: 59mm
exducer bore diameter: 49.5mm
findings: except for one additional blade on the kkk turbine, the turbine sections have nearly identical specs.
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#47
by
trav1856
on 22 Mar, 2011 21:44
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first off, this thread is in the wrong section
second off, the turbo oil filter flange, is indeed special.. the n/a unit will not work.
the only turbos available on VW diesels that are water cooled, are not available in the USA..
what turbo do you have that needs water cooling? not one off a US or Can spec TD, thats for sure.
anyways, you might get more help if you posted up in the IDI section, being that you are working on an IDI diesel
hope we can help..
It's not in the wrong section when the mods move it here.
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#48
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Mar, 2011 21:47
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first off, this thread is in the wrong section
second off, the turbo oil filter flange, is indeed special.. the n/a unit will not work.
the only turbos available on VW diesels that are water cooled, are not available in the USA..
what turbo do you have that needs water cooling? not one off a US or Can spec TD, thats for sure.
anyways, you might get more help if you posted up in the IDI section, being that you are working on an IDI diesel
hope we can help..
It's not in the wrong section when the mods move it here.
lol, when i wrote that, this topic was in the TDI section.. then Vincent moved it here for us.
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#49
by
Bugsy_malone 666
on 23 Mar, 2011 08:35
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I think what I am seeing in this thread is digresssion from the orginal question and bickering about whether something will and wont work.
So cooling, lets head back to it.
Something that has crossed my mind is that other than a water coolant line and aux pump for the turbo(which although not fitted to all cars would be an advantage to help the turbo live longer) Is actually other cooling for this, for example you may want to also look at running a bigger radiator if the main cooling loop is going to be under more strain with the turbo heating the system up as well.
Theres also the other thing that I think which is things like piston squirters and an LDA for fuel pump advance so you have a TD to start with as your base and then you can worrk about the turbo spool after that.
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#50
by
bgbmxer
on 23 Mar, 2011 09:35
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I'd like to plumb the coolant to the turbo off the stock plumbing I don't see a need to run an auxiliary system. As for a bigger radiator I dont know how I'm going to plumb the front mount with the stock rad in place it's going to be tight. But a aluminum rad could be made and better electric fans could be used also.
As for the oil squirters and the lda I'm not sure if I need them as of yet. They don't hurt thats for sure but how does the lda work with the gov mod? Since it's an Na block I don't have oil squirters so I'm just gonna have to watch my egts
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#51
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Mar, 2011 11:27
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I'd like to plumb the coolant to the turbo off the stock plumbing I don't see a need to run an auxiliary system. As for a bigger radiator I dont know how I'm going to plumb the front mount with the stock rad in place it's going to be tight. But a aluminum rad could be made and better electric fans could be used also.
As for the oil squirters and the lda I'm not sure if I need them as of yet. They don't hurt thats for sure but how does the lda work with the gov mod? Since it's an Na block I don't have oil squirters so I'm just gonna have to watch my egts
i would air cool the turbo, and keep as much heat out of the coolant as possible..
and you dont NEED an lda, or oil squirters.. like you say, watch your EGT. pistons are made from aluminum. and melt around 1250*
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#52
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 Mar, 2011 11:35
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I think what I am seeing in this thread is digresssion from the orginal question and bickering about whether something will and wont work.
So cooling, lets head back to it.
Something that has crossed my mind is that other than a water coolant line and aux pump for the turbo(which although not fitted to all cars would be an advantage to help the turbo live longer) Is actually other cooling for this, for example you may want to also look at running a bigger radiator if the main cooling loop is going to be under more strain with the turbo heating the system up as well.
Theres also the other thing that I think which is things like piston squirters and an LDA for fuel pump advance so you have a TD to start with as your base and then you can worrk about the turbo spool after that.
haha yes alot of bickering with just hear say numbers make for a more constructive conversation.
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#53
by
bgbmxer
on 23 Mar, 2011 19:04
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Anyone have a diagram of coolant flow? I don't wanna use a aux pump just plumb it with the stock stuff.
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#54
by
bgbmxer
on 23 Mar, 2011 19:10
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and you dont NEED an lda, or oil squirters.. like you say, watch your EGT. pistons are made from aluminum. and melt around 1250*
[/quote]
The hotter the turbo is the hotter the air charge. So im gonna water cool it.
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#55
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 Mar, 2011 19:46
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the water flow is pretty simple actually, basically forget about the radiator hoses, the water pumps out side flows in to the block, so the outlet on the side of the head towards the transmission is on the out side of the flow, everything else flows in to the pump, so the 2 heater hoses would be good to use to cool the turbo and would basically be the same thing as using the 2 hoses for the factory oil coiler.
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#56
by
bgbmxer
on 23 Mar, 2011 19:57
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the water flow is pretty simple actually, basically forget about the radiator hoses, the water pumps out side flows in to the block, so the outlet on the side of the head towards the transmission is on the out side of the flow, everything else flows in to the pump, so the 2 heater hoses would be good to use to cool the turbo and would basically be the same thing as using the 2 hoses for the factory oil coiler.
Sweet. Then I'll just use one of the heater core hoses preferably the one flowing out. Of the heater core. This is what I planned i just dont want to restrict flow in a place thats needed
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#57
by
RabbitJockey
on 23 Mar, 2011 22:37
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what would be real sweet is you can actually get a freeze out plug that has a water port built in, i think it comes from a mk4 vr6 or a tt 1.8t or something, but it fits our blocks, then you could run one hose from the back of the block to the turbo, then run a another hose to the return on the heater hose, that would be the cleanest way to do it.
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#58
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 24 Mar, 2011 01:56
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If you don't use an aux pump, then the coolant WILL boil in the turbo on shutdown. Better to not use the water cooling at all.
...i said something along these lines about 4 pages ago...
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#59
by
bgbmxer
on 24 Mar, 2011 05:32
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what would be real sweet is you can actually get a freeze out plug that has a water port built in, i think it comes from a mk4 vr6 or a tt 1.8t or something, but it fits our blocks, then you could run one hose from the back of the block to the turbo, then run a another hose to the return on the heater hose, that would be the cleanest way to do it.
So they use that as a factory piece? Do one of the vendors sell these?
I could always get a new set of plugs and weld pipe to it.